Build thread for the 72 GMC, finally. Thanks John!

Use the cj sender and bend the float arm 180 degrees. Wont be 100% accurate but youll figure out where empty is before long.

The blazer sender wouldnt be overly accurate anyway if the tanks are different depths.

solfly wrote: The blazer sender wouldnt be overly accurate anyway if the tanks are different depths.

They're actually the -exact same- depth, but I am guessing there are small differences based on the mounting flange.

in that case id go with the bent cj sender, or the yj sender without the pump

tuna55 wrote: Happily, the YJ has 0-90, but unhappily, the YJ also has an in tank fuel pump that I don't want or need.

If cutting the fuel pump off the YJ sender isn't an option, you could use a bypass type fuel pressure regulator and the in-tank pump.

Decide that the stock CJ unit is A-ok and buy a new fuel gauge that deals with the wackiest ma-mopar could come up with (well, maybe other than the left handed lugs) and have it be weird, or come up with some way to modify the tank to accept the GM sender (not a fan) or visa versa.

There's a pretty good reason for Mopar's resistance curve - if there's any corrosion on the grounds between the fuel tank and the instrument cluster, it'll make a Mopar gauge read lower and a GM gauge give a false high reading.

tuna55 wrote: While the technically-minded among you try to figure out other potential solutions to the fuel sender issue, perhaps the more silly folks can come up with an excellent souvenir to send the folks who pitched in on the springs. Do you guys want pieces of the busted up spring? Hunks of old Bondo and rust? I don't have any spare locks of hair, but I could spare a few inches of MIG wire.

When you have names and addresses, send them to me, too. I'll get a little swag on the way from GRM.

personally, tuna, id grab a universal street rod sending unit with a 90-0 range and keep the stock gauge.

ill see what i can find in my pile o crap in storage. may have one i can bring you.

Dusterbd13 wrote: personally, tuna, id grab a universal street rod sending unit with a 90-0 range and keep the stock gauge. ill see what i can find in my pile o crap in storage. may have one i can bring you.

I called VDO thinking that exact thought, but they only have the six hole mounting pattern, they have nothing for a stock locking ring application. Let me know if you know differently.

the six hole is what i always use.

in your application, id use a ysed jeep pickupto supply fuel, hole saw a small hole for the 6 bolt sender and float, a cork gasket, and roll with it. done it plenty of times with "square" tanks.

are you thinking TBI iunjection?

In reply to tuna55:

Perhaps an autographed can of Chicken Of The Sea?

AngryCorvair wrote: In reply to tuna55: Perhaps an autographed can of Chicken Of The Sea?

THIS. end of discussion.

Dusterbd13 wrote: the six hole is what i always use. in your application, id use a ysed jeep pickupto supply fuel, hole saw a small hole for the 6 bolt sender and float, a cork gasket, and roll with it. done it plenty of times with "square" tanks. are you thinking TBI iunjection?

Hmmm. I saw an install for an electric fuel tank where they used a trick sleeve with studs which was slotted so that you can put it in the inside of the tank and then nut the sender onto it. I like that idea, but cannot find a part like that standalone. Anyone?

I am not down with the VDO instructions for their stuff which says 'use self tapping screws'.

A can of Tuna? Really? I'll do that if you really want, but that's a bit odd, even for you guys. Signed? By whom, the truck? Let me think about that a bit more.

oh, and no TBI injection, just a regular quadrajet.

AngryCorvair wrote: In reply to tuna55: Perhaps an autographed can of Chicken Of The Sea?

Picture of the whole school of tuna crammed in the cab..."Caned Tuna" Autographed of course!

In reply to NOHOME:

I like it!

An arduino and a digital potentiometer might do the trick. A few bits of solder, a few lines of code. And you should be able to tuck it in somewhere pretty hidden to keep it stock looking.

Tell me you guys aren't serious. You don't really want my autograph. Please.

For the sender, I see it's going to cost me an additional $45 to get a Jeep sender and use my current Blazer sender to clamp on the tube of the Jeep job. At that point I can knock the Jeep sender home like it belongs there, because it does.

The alternative is the VDO nightmare. I have been in touch with those guys and their product line is very confusing. I need to buy the sender, the install kit, the pickup tube, and possible a connector. I guess I am on my own with the vent tubes. I'd be in for $70 total, about $10 more than the sender I have now (so a $30 delta in VDOs favor), but I would need to drill holes in the tank and holesaw the main hole a bit. I am not a fan of any of these things.

Now to give Tunawife the computer back for sewing while I go play with my new borrowed chopsaw and my fuel filler neck.

I actually forgot the cleanest option of all. I could just run a jeep gauge. I really greatly dislike the stock gauge package on the truck for all sorts of reasons anyway, and the gauge meant for a Jeep isn't any more expensive. Doing that just means that I am marrying myself to the new gauge package, as ridiculously expensive as they are.

I spent waaaaaaay too long in the garage tonight. I cut, chopped, heated, bent, twisted, drilled, shaved, filed and generally made the first three tiny bits of the fuel filler tube. I also killed some time by modifying my leaf spring brackets, the bit that the U bolts hold against, because they need a little work before they are ready for my new springs. Tunawife poked her head in, I was using the gigantic die grinder and enlarging one of the holes, "do you realize it's after midnight?" she asked. Oops. So here I am.

I do have some cool pictures of the fuel filler, though. This is the hard part, believe it or not.

After taking those I put the worm gear clamps on to hold everything in place nicely. After that I have to throw the bed floor back on there. The next piece will be the reducer, then a short section of 1 1/2" tube, the rubber 1 1/2" elbow, and then a straight shot up to the filler. Everything will get final welded and come back off for painting.

i love that there's progress on this build nearly every day

solfly wrote: i love that there's progress on this build nearly every day

Thanks! I aim to please. Forcing myself to update nearly every day is making me get it done. Even if I get a half hour, I can still say something, right?

Today I grabbed a front and rear swaybar from a couple of Suburbans with some awesome brackets for $49. Nap time was a great time today!

Just checked into the thread after a few days. Contribution sent!

I've been enjoying this thread for a while now and willing you to keep going! Dave really said it best, you're doing great work an I'm enjoying the progress. You certainly have motivated me to keep going little bits at a time on the multiple projects I have going, and to use birth control.

Since we're on an inspirational bend, I figured I could add some insight.

This project is something I had never done before. In many ways. I had never done any of this stuff, hardly anything at all. Most of this restoration has covered ground that I had never covered, at least not in real detailed practice. Keeping up with this build thread has kept me motivated and on the right track to learn and accomplish all of these things. I cant just lay off for a few weeks while I tread the internet for various ways to relocate the fuel filler, to site a recent example, instead of just going out in the garage and doing it. We al do it, from time to time. It's way easier to peruse Summit or Rockauto for a few nights (and it may be worthwhile, to an extent) but to actually get out there and lay a few beads, turn a few wrenches, whatever, is not only -actual- progress, but serves to keep you motivated as well.

I've gone over the backstory several times. Most of you know it by heart now, and I am sure that what makes this build so interesting. I'm not building a race car, a cool engine-swapped Euro-car, a track-day special or even an autocross terror. I am building a truck. To be frank, a truck which could be duplicated on paper by any number of more modern examples with more success for less money and less effort, easily. It's not going to outaccelerate a modern Camaro, outhandle a autocross special, outsex a Ferrari, or outnostaligia a cool pre-war era truck. It's simply an idea I had, to slightly better everything about a truck bodystyle I really like.

The backstory is that I bought this truck pre-kid. I tried to restore it as I drove it, within reason. I then found that having children is more taxing than I would have expected. As any parent can attest to. I stopped, started, stopped, started again, and generally had a great time being Dad. I bought tons of parts. Parts of immediate need, like the GMC specific headlight bezels or the pedal chrome trim. Now that I am actually making progress, rather than perusing catalogs for fun looking parts (although when I need pedals, I am SET!) and it seems that when I need parts (ahem, leaf springs anyone?) it's truly the least of the issue. Especially with a fantastic support structure (atta-boys all around). Getting that half-hour in the garage each day or two means the difference between a stagnant build or a wonderful work in progress. Just going to the junkyard today is HUGE. I spent $100 on swaybars and new bushings whereas a new retrofit set cost $140 each side.

Little bits at a time. A good reference. Indeed it's true. Since I have an hour or two at most each day or so, I have no real choice. I am attempting to fix the issues my Dad had, and the ones my in-laws had. Several build threads on my kids stuff indicate I am more than willing to sacrifice everything for their growth and maturity. Other than the occasional trip (today, during nap time) or the internet search (rockauto hurray!) I keep my truck work for the nighttime, when they are all sleeping.

Regardless of my recent introspection, this build thread is the inspiration. Not for you, but for me! Even on a date night (fatally flawed as todays was), I had to get something done, like acquiring those swaybars. I feel obligated to this build thread. To update it and to provide progress. Not only have you all been technical support, but also moral support. Without which (hence the name of this thread), this truck would have been long ago been sold for scrap. Thanks to JohnfromKansas, to sending me away from the brink, and to all of you, for keeping me on the right track, not the least of which involved those leaf springs.

Tunawife suggested some stuff today to be done when the truck as done. DONE. She said it. When the truck was done. Wow. That's big. BIG big.

I laid the rear swaybar on the axle today. It fits. I may need to reverse the links, but it will fit and fit well. I bought the bushings. A total of $100 spent for both swaybars and all new bushings, GM brackets, etc. It's going to be great. It's all going to fit, and it is going to make this truck awesome.

That's all for tonight, folks. I hope this has been less rambling and more inspirational. I don't really know. I appreciate everything. Keep it up. This is going well and it is very fun. I am learning new skills and having new confidences. It's a good thing.

I guess it was a good junkyard day for both of us!

You keep it up. Looking forward to seeing it done.