Wow, never heard of that company. Cool, though, for finding non-PRC-made tools.
I still have an old DeWalt, before they went cheap with them. On its, um, 3rd cord I think. And this one's wrapped in masking tape. And the bearings sound like a cement mixer. Oh well.
Yeah Metabo is a good brand. I know them because our field guys love them. They are $300 ish new. They even have a nifty clutch so they don't get stuck and throw you.
So the Metabo auction turned out to be a bust. I did end up buying one outright through Amazon warehouse (open box), despite being a lesser model (no quick removal, simpler handle) it had the same specs for the motor.
Unfortunately, I cannot figure out Flickr - it must have changed, so I cannot share pictures just yet.
I cut the top half of my workbench off. It was a giant cast-off unit I got at auction where I used to work, VolvoClearingHouse has one just like it. Over 75% of the surface was covered by a giant shelf system, that was actually pretty terrible. Terrible, and welded together heavy gauge steel. This guy must have been paid by the hour, because each little shelf was welded a dozen times on either side. Also there were four 3" round sections used to prop up the one side of the shelf that were just left in there. Wild, looking at the waste.
Now my garage is clean, this was the last effort towards a massive cleaning project. The truck can now re-begin in earnest.
To be completely frank, the new grinder is down on power when compared to the old Makita which it replaced. It's not on fire, though, and it wasn't assembled by twelve year old Chinese kids, so there's that. The threaded shank is a bit long, which makes getting into tight spots tricky, but all is well otherwise. And now I have a giant heavy steel workbench!
why not put a spacer on the shank under the wheel to allow less of a stub sticking out, and more clearance?
Man, I need to clean my work space and get back to work on my project.
Looks like your shield is on the wrong way...
Robbie wrote: Looks like your shield is on ...
Fixed that for you
No idea how you can use a cut off wheel with any degree of accuracy with the shield on.
NOHOME wrote:Robbie wrote: Looks like your shield is on ...Fixed that for you
You are insane and a ticking time bomb working with no shield!!
Dusterbd13 wrote: why not put a spacer on the shank under the wheel to allow less of a stub sticking out, and more clearance?
Can't, either the back flange nut won't engage the double D on the shank, or the wheel won't locate on the other side of the flange nut.
dculberson wrote:NOHOME wrote:You are insane and a ticking time bomb working with no shield!!Robbie wrote: Looks like your shield is on ...Fixed that for you
I always use a shield except for when I see a very real reason to need to remove it. When that happens, I wear extra protection (welding jacket with leather sleeves and stout gloves).
Anyway...
So, remember the swaybar situation? A rear endlink from a 95-98 Hyundai looks like this (thanks Michael!):
See what I'm getting at? I hacked at the swaybar a bit on both sides and got here. I just need some of these. CAD is great.
I had some leftover angle iron from the front bed panel of the truck, and it's silly-thick, so I made some brackets. Like this.
Now it looks sort of like this. I have some trimming to do to angle the swaybar correctly, and then trimming the bracket to fit the end of the bar better, but it's pretty nice!
Oh, forgot to mention. The big swaybar is solid, not hollow. Weird, right? It's WAY harder to cut.
Speaking of cutting, just to remind everyone, I run a poor shop over here. That grinder is pretty much the only thing that I have capable of cutting metal. No sawzall, no plasma, no porta-band, no band saw... That's one reason why this grinder is so important.
In reply to tuna55:
Yes, I do have one of those stupidly heavy metal shelf things. Its currently sitting under my deck, storing potting soil and gardening stuff for Mrs VCH. I like how you cut the top off yours, though. Mine still weighs like 300 pounds. I think I paid $20 for mine. One of the guys at the shop we used to work at said between the material and the labor hours, they had about $800 into each one. 
Your sway bar idea looks like it will work out pretty good. Can you weld on a bar, or will those tabs bolt on?
Weld!
I actually didn't do a terrible job welding them, and I also drilled a 1/2" hole and plug welded the center too.
Tomorrow, I'll clean and paint the bar, as well as the bracket and frame around that area and bolt it on. Then the suspension will be finished, and I can get the wheels back on and get my jackstands back.
Yay! Progress!
The biggest news here is that you can see the swaybar sitting on my workbench. See all those shiny spots? They are all old, ground off weld. The dude who built this just loved welding. So my work area is clean, and I have attached a vice, so I had pretty good access to welding this thing on there, which is about the first time that this level of cleanliness and accessibility has been realized during this project. Wow! I am not sure if I should be happy and delighted, or pissed at putting myself through that mess for years.
Awesome! I'm so glad those endlinks worked out.
I painted a bunch of stuff yesterday. Not much to get pictures of yet, just know that progress was made and it looks good!
Excellent! I'm glad that you're making progress on this again.
And that work bench looks amazing. The hard part is going to be keeping things from collecting on that large horizontal surface. Good luck.
ShawneeCreek wrote: Excellent! I'm glad that you're making progress on this again. And that work bench looks amazing. The hard part is going to be keeping things from collecting on that large horizontal surface. Good luck.
Oh it's not that hard yet. I am sure complacency will get the best of my eventually, but the novelty of being able to just sit things down on the bench and work on them is a huge factor in keeping it clean for now!
That is one installed swaybar!
That is rad.
And last night (the swaybar install was two nights ago), I cleaned up the rotors, reattached the tierods, and dropped it on the ground!!
Dusterbd13 wrote: That is rad.
Thanks!
I am pretty happy with the way that swaybar turned out. The best part is that it's easy enough to cut off the ends and weld on the bracket if I want a larger diameter swaybar in the future.
Does this mean it can go back on the ground and be declared a finished roller?
NOHOME wrote: Does this mean it can go back on the ground and be declared a finished roller?
Hey I think you missed the new post!
YES!
This means that both suspensions are done. Sure, I should get some boots for the extended tie rods, and it will need to be aligned, but it's officially a roller for sure.
The engine comes out next to get freshened in the cheapest possible way, and painted. Then it can be a driver without any body.
Yay!
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