I have a full tbi setup if you want it....
I have a full tbi setup if you want it....
Dusterbd13 wrote: I have a full tbi setup if you want it....
Pretty much any engine option I am debating between gets topped with a Quadrajet, but thanks!!!
I assume you calculated the buckling/ tension stresses on that Hyundai end link for the loads that will be generated in this application? 
volvoclearinghouse wrote: I assume you calculated the buckling/ tension stresses on that Hyundai end link for the loads that will be generated in this application?
Yes.
I did this by calculating the difference in load bearing ability as defined by the diameter of the endlink delta from a light truck application to this Hyundai link, seeing as I am forced to assume materials would be equivalent.
Since the diameters were equal, the math was pretty easy...
tuna55 wrote: dropped it on the ground!!
Milestone! Congrats! Looks great. My Dad had a '68 Chevy work truck when I was a kid. Sweet body style
I'm doing stuff while I await the next stage, hopefully this weekend. It's not exciting yet, and I don't want to spill the beans too much:
Mmmm.....
Roll your own gauges. I like where this is going.
tuna55 wrote: And last night (the swaybar install was two nights ago), I cleaned up the rotors, reattached the tierods, and dropped it on the ground!!
This photo brings me much joy!
I am now looking forward to that first coat of epoxy primer.
NOHOME wrote: I am now looking forward to that first coat of epoxy primer.
Looks like spring.
I need to figure out the following before taking that plunge:
-Finish wiring my compressor
-Save for a spray gun
-Research the cheapest way to build a temporary structure in the driveway
-Build dollies for doors/fenders/bed
-Figure out the best way to treat the bare steel with 80 grit scratches in it (undoubtedly, some corrosion has started in there)
-Be sure enough with my bodywork that the rest of the smoothing can be accomplished with a full skim-coat and high build primer
tuna55 wrote:NOHOME wrote: I am now looking forward to that first coat of epoxy primer.Looks like spring. I need to figure out the following before taking that plunge: -Finish wiring my compressor -Save for a spray gun -Research the cheapest way to build a temporary structure in the driveway -Build dollies for doors/fenders/bed -Figure out the best way to treat the bare steel with 80 grit scratches in it (undoubtedly, some corrosion has started in there) -Be sure enough with my bodywork that the rest of the smoothing can be accomplished with a full skim-coat and high build primer
Yeah...you will need that compressor for sure, but a lot of the prep can be more casual than not.
You can shoot epoxy and high fill with a $35 gun. Don't worry too much about the sanding marks at this point. Wipe the panel down with panel prep, squirt some epoxy on the panel and start the filler work from that foundation.
If you restrict yourself to spraying the epoxy on one panel at a time, you can get away with pretty much shooting in the garage. Bugs and dirt are not going to matter much until you put the final primer coat on.
Your bodywork skills are going to come as you go down the path, trust me it will be like your welding skills.
-Save for a spray gun
Don't save up for a gun, I have an underutilized Devilbiss Tekna that we might be able to get your way for when the color comes around.
So excited about the recent progress. Good call on plug welding the brackets too, btw.
4cylndrfury wrote: So excited about the recent progress. Good call on plug welding the brackets too, btw.
Thanks! Those brackets are going to be used heavily. They are super thick, too.
In reply to NOHOME:
How much do you want for the Tekna?
I want to make sure it's a good gun because: my compressor is marginal. It's a 220Vac, two cylinder, but single stage compressor with a relatively small tank. I am hoping that my relatively small area-at-a-time can help. The bedside is the largest single panel. I also want to make sure I learn using the same gun I'll spray color with, so I don't have another learning curve.
I can't spray in my garage because of fumes (attached garage, Tunakids), not space. I suppose I can spray in the driveway and then cart them in. That's not a bad plan.
My worry about the 80 grit scratches is not the marks. I understand that a skim coat will cover all of that. I am more worried that the scratches have been there for 6 years. While it's been inside and dry the whole time, for maximum longevity, I need to make sure that I have removed all corrosion which has started. I am thinking a brief wire-wheel everywhere before spraying primer.
not wire wheel. use one of those 3m strip discs on the grinder. they look kind of like coral cut into a disc. they work great for rust and getting down into grooves/machining marks/scratches. I use them for tool restorations to strip the cast iron down.
also, I have a harbor freight cup gum ill GIVE you. should be great for primer.
Dusterbd13 wrote: not wire wheel. use one of those 3m strip discs on the grinder. they look kind of like coral cut into a disc. they work great for rust and getting down into grooves/machining marks/scratches. I use them for tool restorations to strip the cast iron down.
Oh yeah! I know those!
Dusterbd13 wrote: also, I have a harbor freight cup gum ill GIVE you. should be great for primer.
Sweet! How far away from me are you again?
Umm...
I've still got calipers and coil over stuff that I need to get to you.
One of these days I need to come down with the elky and meet you in person.
And mad, and classic jackets....
I'm up in Charlotte.
So I was looking through my own thread looking for something else (found it!) and realized that the front end has been up on jackstands for a year.
I suck at getting things done quickly. It is done now, however.
Saturday night should net you guys a sweet surprise, though.
Dusterbd13 wrote: Umm... I've still got calipers and coil over stuff that I need to get to you. One of these days I need to come down with the elky and meet you in person. And mad, and classic jackets.... I'm up in Charlotte.
I am still on the fence for both of those things, so no rush. It would be great to see you for real though. For now, I'll probably throw my own calipers back on there despite their massive mass. Since the F body calipers have less piston area, it would necessitate a master change, and also that I re-balance the front/rear brakes.
I'll get it going like this, and look at other stuff later. A rear disc swap would be great then, too.
I was thinking more like a loan where you can fedX it back and forth after the thing is painted. You don't need a $500 paint gun laying around after the truck is painted. Take Dusterbd up on the offer of the primer gun.
Run the "Rice Cake" abrasive over the panel and then treat with Ospho or Klean Strip or whater phosphoric acid metal prep you like.
Re: The motor
A re-ring will buy you 20k miles. An .010 overbore and some cast pistons with moly rings will run as long as you want it to. Cast pistons for a SBC are dirt cheap. If you're lucky, the crank will be within spec and will benefit from just a micro-polish. Some new bearing and seals plus a stock-type four-barrel flat-tappet cam and you've got yourself a short block.
Have the heads pressure checked for cracks, mill them for flatness, and a stock valve job with guides(!) will get you back on the road cheaply but with an expectation of durability.
If you decide to do a hot motor later, you can sell this one to help fund it.
Agree with Jerry re the engine. Do what must be done and paint it to look pretty.
My favorite engine health inspection tool:
If it lands in the green nothing you do will make it better; just paint the damn thing.
Not sure if the parts places have these on the lend program.
It looks like about $300 to get it into primer and to get more filler. I am certain that my old 7 year old can of filler is too old to be used. We'll see what I can talk Tunawife into.
I just had a realization though. I bet that I can use my new workbench as a dolly for the bed. Now I just need to craft something for the fenders and doors.
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