Ok quick question, this partly bothers me but I am 99% sure I'm correct
The fact that the idler arm is further from the tie rod should have to affect on ackerman and steering correct?
I took a pic of my dads car for comparison, his car is setup for road race
It should move in a perfect parallelogram
I'm only asking because I have gotten stuff like this wrong before
Here is the radiator and oil cooler I found for 275 shipped
The spindles have a 5.25" bolt spacing for the calipers, which is odd, will probably have to get radial mount calipers, unless I cut the brackets off and weld new ones on.
Any new updates on this one?
Yeah! Come on! Feed us news....
Haven't progressed too much, bought a 3 stage moroso dry sump set up off ebay for $600, fromt calipers for $120. Has a pretty nice oil pan and came with a bunch of lines and fittings
Inside of the car painted, motor mounted, forgot to take pics of the motor, it's around 10" of the ground depending on where the ride height ends up
Figured out the front suspension, the ball joint I need because one spindle is 3/4" of an inch taller is almost $100
upp a-arms are even, the camber should be around 2* with no shims once I get the correct ball joint
Maybe I'll get it soon
My dad is going to put a 5 speed in his corvette so I can get his old muncie for free. So I'll probably rebuild a vortec 350 I have and use a adapter to use the 2 piece rear main oil pan on the 1 piece. Don't think the muncie will hold to much power. Unfortunately the muncie pops out of 4th gear under deceleration
Bought that bellhousing with hydraulic throwout bearing for around $275, going to pick up a used 7.25" clutch for it, I already have a flywheel that will work
I want to build a ~400+ cubic inch pump gas SBC eventually
Pump gas and used race tires are going to keep the costs down
miata roll cage i welded
Heres the mounts before i gusseted them
I've been busy with school, I stopped slacking and its taking up more of my time. Going to major in construction engineering
My dad finally drove the corvette hes been working on for years at sebring
I'm going to have to get my solo license with it because my car won't have a passenger seat
How much will offsetting the engine 1" towards the passenger side help the weight balance. Right now I accidentally screwed up the rear engine mounts and it will only fit square. I can cut and extended and shorten them though pretty easily. Might just get lazy and draw some on CAD and have them cnc plasma cut
I don't feel like moving the battery and oil sump from the drivers side, it's already nicely built and doesn't seem worth it since it will be less than a 100#
Not really anything else to offset, I think I'll mount the fire extinguisher on the passenger side, can't scoot the fuel cell over some because its also in a nice cage
I'm not sure if I wanna keep the quick change, one side has positive camber and one is negative, it's also offset to one side, so it needs at least new axle tubes, if they are both the same length I'll probably keep it. I'll get square axle tubes for replacements, read that camber doesn't help much on a solid rear
Someone mentioned swapping the track bar mounting opposite, that seems like a lot of work, it's running parallel with ground right now and I'm not sure if it would help much. I'm not familiar with solid axle suspension dynamics so I'll do some reading on this. I'd like to not have to modify it though
We have an extra ford 9" pumpkin from a NASCAR that is a 3.90 gear, that would work pretty nicely if I go that route
I say go for it. 1" is barely worth worrying about, but It should help to offset the weight of the driver and controls a bit.
Yeah I was going to do some calculations to see how much it would help.
I can actually just run without the mid mounts also once I get a transmission.
I can just use them for mockup without the transmission not and take them off when the tranny goes in.
I can slide the motor back forth about a 1" and back and forth about the same. So I can have the car on the scales and we can attempt to move the engine around to get it balanced
Can you unbolt the axle tube on one side of the quick change and flip it so it is cambered the right way?
Wally wrote: Can you unbolt the axle tube on one side of the quick change and flip it so it is cambered the right way?
I'm going to check this, but I'm not sure about if they are toed or not also. Haven't look into it in detail too much just by eye
I'm going to have to cut some brackets of to do that also, I'll pull the rear end out when the time comes and try to figure everything out
The big kicker is going to be if the axle tubes are equal length, right now in relation to the body one side is about 2" in further than the other. Which doesn't mean too much since the body is kind of offset but I don't think it's much in the rear
If they are unequal length and toe'd funny it may be cheaper to just sell it and build the 9"
ctk339 wrote:Wally wrote: Can you unbolt the axle tube on one side of the quick change and flip it so it is cambered the right way?I'm going to check this, but I'm not sure about if they are toed or not also. Haven't look into it in detail too much just by eye I'm going to have to cut some brackets of to do that also, I'll pull the rear end out when the time comes and try to figure everything out The big kicker is going to be if the axle tubes are equal length, right now in relation to the body one side is about 2" in further than the other. Which doesn't mean too much since the body is kind of offset but I don't think it's much in the rear If they are unequal length and toe'd funny it may be cheaper to just sell it and build the 9"
I'm also not sure if I can just take the side of the housing off and flip it or if I have to press the tube out
Radiator duct after I'm done with finals for school.
Ordered a premade front grill for the radiator and some extra mesh for the brake ducts, 3/16 stainless
Very cool. Coming along nicely.
Need to lower the top rectangle tube a little bit, just tac'd right now
Made a website to host pics and articles, k1ob.com . Tired of going over bandwidth on photobucket
Really busy with school right now, 4 classes 3 labs, so I can't go home much. Not really any progress after these
Its been a few years, started working on it again a few months ago
In reply to ctk339 :
Awesome!
Motor back out, had to cut this out to clear the reverse mount starter. I hate sheet metal
will need to fill in the little holes everywhere and then paint everything before putting the motor in for final assembly
I'm in.....didn't read all the way .....have you finished school?
Glad to see ya back at it! This is Andy. We’re putting your miata cage to use at Sebring this weekend.
In reply to 759NRNG :
Yes finished school, I’m now a civil engineer, stay off newly constructed roads and parking lots in Florida
Blowing all my money on this car trying to get it finished, less of a budget now lol
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