FrankenFerrari - V12 Ferrari 308

Free because your arm or frame mount failed?  Free like that? Have you got a PE signing off the spec for the vehicle you're proposing to build?  Welds or composite all being created and the report signed by a PE cerifying it all meets the approved plans?  Any processes that can't be verified through inspection validated using statistically valid sample sizes?

......or are you just planning to build it and head out in the street because you know best?

.......I'm sure if you look you can find a mirror to preach too but I have no interest in it.

ebelements said:

mke said:

Sometimes parts break.  Sometimes a car loses a wheel, I've lost a couple over the years....., wait, 3 as I lost the front wheel off a motorcycle once too, that kind of sucked but the car wheels?...eh, annoying at most.

WHAT

It's like I want to hear the story, but seeing as that's pretty much my biggest fear and all, I don't know if I need that rattling around in my helmet every time I fire up the yamaha from now on..

I used to hillcimb, and lost the wheel along with the bottom 1/2 of the forks just after this pick was taken.....I just couldn't stop it from rotating forward as it was coming down and I left wheel and forks in the sand as me and the rest of the bike continued on at about 60mph.......for a little bit anyway until it really dug in a launched me....my should still hurts like there is an ice pick under my should blade it when I ride a motorcyle for more than 10 or 15 minutes. But Iwon, its the only trophy I've kept all these years :)

Just so you know, as soon as you take OEM parts of the original car, they magically and more importantly legally become plain old prototype un-engineered , uncertified.  So, no you don't have engineered anything

"Based on" means you pulled out of you a$$ and figured it would be fine....just like my wheels are based on OEM designs.  See how that works?

Please stop posting your dribble on my thread. It's not welcome.  Thanks

Shop's pretty much set so back to pulling the engine.....

Wow what more is there to say....

https://youtu.be/mhLRMXc1N5U

Alright...I know an alternator lying on the floor may not look like much but it's quite an accomplishment.  The engineer who packaged up in there should be taken out and shot before he kills someone...oh wait.....take that back :)

I got a bunch of stuff out of the back too but it was only in temporarily for pics so that went quick

Th engine pull is proceeding slowing....not much room left in the engine bay.  As I pulled the waterpump the other day I was reminded just how much I hate coolant facials...

Today I was on the road but now own dyno rollers.  The diameter is a little small an they aren't knurled but I'm pretty sure they will fit in my lathe as I can at least fix the not knurled issue

This is a way back burner project but for $100 I had to have them.  the longterm plan is build a simple space frame that will lock to the end of a lift and the waterbrake plug on the end....but I don't have a lift or a waterbrake so.....

I would like to build a brake...I found this pic of the inside of a modern toroidal unit.....I think I could make that.....kind of a painfully slow process on a manual mill but it could be done.  It looks like next weeks lunch break time is booked for CAD work.  The idea engine on a simple stand, brake on the bellhousing, done. ...well done except for the pumps, hoses, valves, dyno wire harness.....and of course the running engine part :)

In reply to mke :

So like you said, done!

All that's missing is the 288 GTO or F40 body kit.

In reply to svxsti :

It has a 288gto front valance and "bumper"...where bumper is more like a turn signal bracket than a bumper that could protect anything...very light through and looks like a bumper

AngryCorvair said:

In reply to mke :

So like you said, done!

I'm reaching out trying to secure some CNC time......it will be painfully slow on my manual mill.

I've just read the posts, a bit late to the party, this build is absolutely awesome.

I really like the ECU, removes all limitations of regular "tuner" ECUs, and the overall mad engineering behind the build (and fab skills).

This puts the "project car" at a whole new level.

I accomplished something tonight! And learned the engine will come out with the front headers in place which is awesome.....so next time it goes in the headers will have ALL their nuts, I gave up on a couple last time since their just no frikin way to reach them with the engine in.

What percentage of the cars's weight is the engine?

In reply to BA5 :

90ish?

:)

I don't know honestly....the engine/trans is pretty heavy, maybe 700lb or so?  The car is about 3200 so 20-25%?

Edit- there is a 2800lb goal on my someday list. 

Watching you do the doors in CF is going to be fun, no?

In reply to jr02518 :

Yes, door probably but the rear deck lid is the biggest offender...its like 50-60 lbs I think..  The bumpers were the  weigh weights at 50+lbs each but they are pretend bumpers now at about 5lbs so now its the deck lid.

In other new I started the layout for a water brake...it will no doubt change a bit but its started.

In reply to mke :

I know you'll probably tell me that I don't know what I'm talking about...but here goes:

What you've designed is a water pump, not a water brake.

Look at your previous post above with the silver and red "wheels".

The red wheel has the water inlet at 12 o'clock...the remainder of the red "wheel" and the silver "wheel" has cup-shaped cutouts around the face, this allows the shape to dissipate the energy of the water as it's introduced and the silver half rotates. The two holes in each of the cups of the silver wheel are most likely bleeder holes that discharge into a cavity behind it...the other half of the red "wheel".

This is where the brake energy comes from. My guess is each cup is based on a displacement value that correlates with how much load is meant to be placed on the engine being tested. As a higher volume of water (and/or pressure) is pumped in, the bleeder holes remain constant, limiting the amount of water that can escape per revolution...allowing an increasing load to be put on the engine.

With your CAD model above, it will create turbulence of the water, which WILL create a load, but you'll likely have high erosion of the fins due to cavitation of the water. As your fins erode, your load will change over time...it's creating added displacement via increased surface area and volume.

If it were ME, I would copy the cups of your previous post with some reference of scale. For example if you knew the size of the shaft that those wheels are made for...

As I look at it, the red "wheel" looks to be a fixed housing with a seal or multiple seals that the shaft from the dyno passes through and a seal for the rotating portion that mates with it...the silver "wheel" has a keyway in it, which tells me it's fixed to the output shaft of the dyno, thus rotates...interpolating, I'd say there is a matching end shell that is also fixed with appropriate seals, that would act as a water "catcher" that drains back to a tank or to a drain.

Not an engine dyno or water brake guru...but I have designed and built mud motors for the oil & gas industry for over a decade, I do know a little bit about hydraulics and hydrodynamics.

My advice is worth what you paid for it.

Gingerbeardman said:

In reply to mke :

I know you'll probably tell me that I don't know what I'm talking about...but here goes:

....

My advice is worth what you paid for it.

Yes and yes. 

A centrifugal pump is a pump because it converts the radial velocity into pressure using a diffuser wrapped around the outside edge.

A brake is a brake because it it has vanes that stop th radial velocity.  A standard brake stops most all velocity while a toroidal brake leave just a little in tact to move water though the system a bit better so even though its not absorbing all the available energy its doing a much better job move water though the system so more water reaches a higher energy state and more total damping is done.

The design I posted which is kind of big and a bugger to build moves the toroidal element to the outside edge to take full advantage of the rotor diameter and reduce losses along the toroidal path while increasing them in the radial path, so again increasing the amount of water reaching the highest energy state and probably increasing total braking ability....but seems like way too much bother to build.

This is a more compact and much easier to make versions.....still not loving it thought.....one or 2 more iterations I guess.

I'll add this bit about water brakes....I'm still doing concept drawings and really haven't settled on anything. ...its just how I work, I like to layout the idea to see where it leads.  My current thinking is that I'd like to try to stick to a rotor that would work in a Stuska style housing so that is a fall back option but try the revised housing first because I think it will work a bit better. 

The with a single rotor Stuska I'd need to start WOT pulls at about 3000rpm and it really doesn't have quite the capacity on top....so its really not quite up to the job.  Mounted to the rollers it should do better as I'm not expecting more that about 750 rwhp and it can handle that.  The twin rotor that Nate has is  the better option but about double the money to make.

The dynomite appears to be able to handle everything I need so I'm still thinking about a design like this....but its a bit harder to make which got me to wondering if the Stuska design could be hotrodded a bit....

Still just thinking about options at the moment, first up is fix the engine.

Same for the wheels really.  There is very little chance something this complex can be made as a wet layup.  Maybe and I'll probably try but its not likely to succeed....but at the end I will own everything I need to to make a new decklid and have practice making molds and doing layup which I haven't messed with for about 20 years.    Not sure what I'll do if I'm actually able to make a decent looking wheel but I'll cross that bridge if I ever get there. 

At some point I'm going to need to give the DD some love.... not sure it even has any more warnings to give me....I thought I already had them all then this morning Igot a new one for airbags.  At least the tire warning light is still off after repairs a couple weeks ago.  The big issue is now it blinks between 4x4 and airbag.....realky annoying, I'll need to tape over that 

My buddy's 1999 X5's cluster looked exactly like that before it quit spectacularly on the freeway.

In reply to Calamarii :

well that makes me sad to learn......

I honestly thought every BMW dash is supposed to look like that.

I just accept my E61 will forever have some sort of warning lit up.