^Oooh nice link. Thanks
crankwalk wrote:Curmudgeon wrote: On the rotors, you might also look at Mercedes rotors. IIRC they are roughly the same design as the Volvo stuff.But are any of those 5 x108? I think the benefit of the volvo looks to be bolt on from what I'm reading. I need the measure the hat depth and the center hub hole size.
Ford Taurus and Ford/Merkur Scorpio used 5x108 as well.
crankwalk wrote: The wheels are 14 x 7.5 and while I love the look of the 14s, I might have to go to some 16 inch Campagnolo replicas to fit what I can back there.
16's look fantastic on a 308GT4. I've seen the 16's from a 328GTS on a few and they're perfect if the car is sitting low enough. 16" Campy replicas would be tastefully different.
The problem with the 16s is even the replicas are 1300 at least. That's money I could spread evenly around the car that desperately needs it. I already replaced one of these 14s to get a matching set and it would be last ditch effort to throw the 16s on eventually.
Here's a measurement of the center bore as well:
Well, it's not like the stockers don't look good on it and a lesser-quality 16" would just cheapen the look of the car. The factory 14's must still be worth a decent chunk of change, but I might be hesitant to get rid of them--although the originality of this car is completely a nonissue.
I dunno, I still think the Campy replicas would be worth the money. They'd really define the car. The more tastefully done the exterior is, the more offensive the Skoob motor will be at an Italian car show.
It would be almost as offensive to the Ferrarista as this:
Or this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerrari
On the brake front - porsche M calipers should work - they'll have the 3" (75/76 mm) spacing and the right width for the vented rotors - just no parking brake for the fronts. Maybe not as cheap as other options, but bolt-on.
Oh yeah, i <3 the jerrari
oldtin wrote: On the brake front - porsche M calipers should work - they'll have the 3" (75/76 mm) spacing and the right width for the vented rotors - just no parking brake for the fronts. Maybe not as cheap as other options, but bolt-on. Oh yeah, i <3 the jerrari
That's what I've read. What year range by chance? 84-89?
Also maybe some Merkur/Volvo 240/740 rotors up front. 5x108 and RWD offset
OHSCrifle wrote:crankwalk wrote: Ok I'm going to go ahead and do that brakes on the gt4 now. From what I have found out it looks like I will need 84-89 911 front calipers with 24 mm spacing and then 914/6 rear calipers (which seem like a bear to find) Any ATE brake part gurus out there? Thanks!Not here, but the great thing about this place is that in a day or so somebody will suggest something obscure like Mazda6 or Ford Scorpio 1984 - 88 with exact same size brake parts for a fraction of the P-parts costs.. (I hope I didn't get your hopes up with a solution).
The last time I bought pads for a 911SC, they were the same as most 70's and early 80's Mercedes. I bought them at Advance Auto for less than $20.
Can't hotlink, but a cool pic of the 'Jerrari' emblem:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/leftcoastclassics/2492686967/
In reply to Curmudgeon:
I've seen the Wagoneer, but I've never seen the green '69. Clearly, the Wagoneer pulls it off more gracefully due to the stock exterior.
Either way--damn, it's good to be rich.
m4ff3w wrote: Ford Taurus and Ford/Merkur Scorpio used 5x108 as well.
You've gotta be E36 M3ting me!
Apologies to Jay for my continued nonsense on an otherwise great build thread.
OHSCrifle wrote: Snip from page 2... ....but the great thing about this place is that in a day or so somebody will suggest something obscure like Mazda6 or **Ford Scorpio **1984 - 88 with exact same size brake parts for a fraction of the P-parts costs.. (I hope I didn't get your hopes up with a solution).
crankwalk wrote:oldtin wrote: On the brake front - porsche M calipers should work - they'll have the 3" (75/76 mm) spacing and the right width for the vented rotors - just no parking brake for the fronts. Maybe not as cheap as other options, but bolt-on. Oh yeah, i <3 the jerrariThat's what I've read. What year range by chance? 84-89? Also maybe some Merkur/Volvo 240/740 rotors up front. 5x108 and RWD offset
It will be the m911 calipers - and old enough for the 3" spacing - think 1974-1975. Probably a little price penalty for older stuff.
Wow. This is a great project.
Here is a lesson learned in culinary school. Never say your dish is over salted before the guest tries it. If you tell some one their food is over salted they will be looking for an over abundance of salt even if its not there.
After reading your first few paragraphs I expected to see a travesty being committed in the pictures. I was presently disappointed to not find said travesty.
That said, I know what it feels like to post some thing of this nature on a forum. There are so many opinions out there, but in the end you are building the car for your self and no one ells right?
Keep it up!
Alrighty folks thanks for all the great ideas! First I tried the Volvo 240/740 rotor this morning and it had some issues. The hub bore was a tad too large but the main issue was the depth of the hat. If it was about half inch shorter it would work. I'll keep searching.
For now I'm working on doing the factory rotor with a BMW 320i (E21 late 70s) FRONT caliper on the rear. It's ATE and bolts up. Everything is peachy EXCEPT that I would need a wheel spacer to not hit the wheel. Everything is so tight in there even with the stock setup.
I've got the rotors soaking in rust remover while I'm at work and then I'll get them turned and just see if they are salvageable. If that's the case then I'll try to find 914/6 rear calipers since I know I can just bolt up that setup. If I can't I'll keep playing making this 320i caliper work with a spacer and line lock (thanks to this forum for the suggestion!) for the parking brake.
It seems with all this compatable stuff it would be a breeze but this has been one of the biggest pita I've dealt with rigging junk up on this car.
What is wrong with the stock brakes? I think I missed that part.
What is the problem we are trying to solve?
Thanks,
Rob R.
wvumtnbkr wrote: What is wrong with the stock brakes? I think I missed that part. What is the problem we are trying to solve? Thanks, Rob R.
It would be about $2000 for new ones.
Example: New Ferrari 308 front caliper = $540 bucks without pads
New Porsche 911 calipers with pads= $ 100 bucks with buddies discount.
Same ATE part. So I'm trying to beat the system and cobbles this together with other stuff that is the same part or close enough that doesn't have a Ferrari name price penalty.
How much space do you need for the wheel to clear? If it's only 1/8" or so, you might measure the caliper housing thickness, see if you can grind a bit off. I've seen that done on motorcycle calipers a couple of times.
Curmudgeon wrote: How much space do you need for the wheel to clear? If it's only 1/8" or so, you might measure the caliper housing thickness, see if you can grind a bit off. I've seen that done on motorcycle calipers a couple of times.
I don't know how thick that caliper is but the one I'm using to mock things up with is just a spare so I can practice on it. Then when I know if it works then I can order new ones.
http://www.pmbperformance.com/calipers/914_6_Rear.html
^They restore 914/6 rear calipers but its 300 bucks WITH your cores. I don't even have 914/6 rear caliper cores just random other ATE parts from over the years. The car didn't come with calipers at all just rotors.
a friend of mine has some never-used aluminum 4-pot Ferrari calipers from an unknown application, likely mid-'80s. he got them from another friend who had a dirt-track car BITD, and track rules required a "stock caliper". didn't say "stock for the car you're racing." so he found the lightest stock calipers he could, which were these ferrari pieces. before he got them on the car, someone heard what he was doing and protested the wording of the rule.
he's on vaca this week, but i'll get some dimensions and a price when he's back in town next week.
If you have access to a micrometer set, it's not hard to measure the thickness. Disassemble the caliper, use the 3" version and its setting bar to check the housing's thickness. The last bike caliper that I saw measured that way was almost 8mm thick, but it was an aluminum version.
EDIT: The Angry One may just have your fix.
AngryCorvair wrote: he's on vaca this week, but i'll get some dimensions and a price when he's back in town next week.
Sweet! Yeah let me know. It may still be a challenge to put anything under these 14's besides 70s and older stuff.
That's funny he was trying to slip in under that rule and really shocking the Ferrari calipers were ever cheap. The parts these days are through the roof. It's hard being a baller on a budget.
crankwalk wrote:AngryCorvair wrote: he's on vaca this week, but i'll get some dimensions and a price when he's back in town next week.Sweet! Yeah let me know. It may still be a challenge to put anything under these 14's besides 70s and older stuff. That's funny he was trying to slip in under that rule and really shocking the Ferrari calipers were ever cheap. The parts these days are through the roof. It's hard being a baller on a budget.
i never said they were cheap for him to buy, i only said they were the lightest OE caliper he could find.
oh, for some halfway decent rotor dimension info, check out:
EDIT: Don't be fooled into thinking that the thumbnail is the only drawing you can get. click the "images" tab and mouse over the drawing window to zoom to the area over which you're mousing.
if you know another car with the same wheel bolt pattern, you can search for rotors that fit that car, and compare dimensions with your OE parts.
their old interface used to allow searching on individual characteristics or combinations thereof, like "rotor thickness = 26 mm" and "bolt pattern = 4x114.3" which is how I found the 1998 nissan altima rotors that i used with 2nd-gen RX7 Turbo front calipers to put disc brakes on my '61 corvair.
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