Nice mirror placement
barefootcyborg5000 said:You're ruining our years-long tradition of mocking your build pace, and not even resorting to any evident half-assery. Keep it up. Wish I could be in Gainesville when you get there.
spoiler alert: i'm the spoiler.
can I send you a tube of this? As a guy to does a million separate projects at once & usually only has 15 minutes a day for "my stuff" I find a lot of second guessing disappears when I see the stripe. I can visually nut & bolt my race car in a few minutes once its all initially torqued :)
Kendall_Jones said:can I send you a tube of this? As a guy to does a million separate projects at once & usually only has 15 minutes a day for "my stuff" I find a lot of second guessing disappears when I see the stripe. I can visually nut & bolt my race car in a few minutes once its all initially torqued :)
that would be cool, thanks! but if it's over the counter at Grainger, i can grab it locally.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:barefootcyborg5000 said:You're ruining our years-long tradition of mocking your build pace, and not even resorting to any evident half-assery. Keep it up. Wish I could be in Gainesville when you get there.
spoiler alert: i'm the spoiler.
I'd prefer you slow back down so it's there next year when I am.
Sorta just kidding - keep it up!
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:Kendall_Jones said:can I send you a tube of this? As a guy to does a million separate projects at once & usually only has 15 minutes a day for "my stuff" I find a lot of second guessing disappears when I see the stripe. I can visually nut & bolt my race car in a few minutes once its all initially torqued :)
that would be cool, thanks! but if it's over the counter at Grainger, i can grab it locally.
I'll second the indorsement. I like mine in yellow.
It's at Grainger for about $7 a tube.
I am team McMaster, had some bad luck in the past with grainger. However I'm sure you can get it anywhere.
I actually have like 5 colors. Nerd Jones will stripe it green at the start of the season & then change color at every service - I can look at something and say yellow means I torqued at the the cat national.
The cool thing about the cross check brand is that it sets up like a ceramic. If the nut/bolt moved the stripe cracks.
Hi, my name is Angry and I'm a wheelaholic.
I already have a full set of this style, OE fronts are 17x8.5 ET58 and rears are 18x9.5 ET65. I will sell the 18" and go square 17", 245/45 front and 275/40 rear until I get a pair of the 17s widened, then 315 rear. Because 315.
or I might flip this set because they're 50th anniversary, so have an OE "champagne" gold finish and the emblem in the center cap is color-keyed to the burgundy paint that was part of the 50AE package. I stopped at work on my way home and spun them all on the road force balancer, and they are probably the straightest and truest wheels I've ever owned. Tires were old. So old that I will scrap instead of selling. Front Eagle F1's dated 3309, super cracked and dry rotted. Rear Pilot Sport All Season Plus dated 3510 looked beautiful but for the age.
I had a vision last night:
so I made three of them from a rectangle bar of UHMW from the "useful drops $2.99/lb" bin at Alro:
then put the firewall bits in place so I can figure out the fuel line bends:
pro tip: TIG rod makes good tube patterns.
I'm making incremental progress on many fronts, which is how it goes when the goal is a well-integrated package. A few more weeks of twists and Rubik's Corvair will be solved. I'm feeling kinda tired today, probably quitting around 9PM.
EDIT: I checked eBay completed auctions on those 50AE corvette wheels. Looks like $250 apiece is a good ballpark number, so I'm going to sell them off and keep my eyes open for a set of the non-anniversary version.
You can get the Dykem stuff from Pegasus in 8-different colors for about 7-8 bucks a tube.
I like two different colors. One for marking that I've torqued bolts down (dot on the head). Another for witness marking something.
I have a set of 255 nitto nt01's on 17x9 wheels and they fit perfect. I would think that a 275 on a 8.5 would be very pinched and perform less favorably than a 245. But I could be wrong.
jfryjfry said:I have a set of 255 nitto nt01's on 17x9 wheels and they fit perfect. I would think that a 275 on a 8.5 would be very pinched and perform less favorably than a 245. But I could be wrong.
I would tend to agree. However, I've got a friend who's been auto crossing and road racing Corvettes since C3s were new, and his experience is "for a given rim width, more tire is faster (not optimum, just faster), up to squeezing a 315 onto an 8.5". I wouldn't want to try to mount that!
also, the 275/315 combo would probably be street only, eventually, and only if the car feels sufficiently sturdy to drive on the street. I guess I'll find out in a few weeks.
Before:
After:
I need to make a couple more spacer blocks, gotta hit Alro tomorrow at lunchtime. It's difficult bending the lines to be parallel in multiple planes, but I think they came out solidly good enough. I still have the cruise control bracket that bolts to intake behind throttle cam, so I'll mod it to give the upper block a landing point.
Back at it tomorrow.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Funny, randomly came across this video on another forum and thought of your friend.
again, personal experience is always super valuable but their testing results are interesting and it's a good video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1MDq23scaWw&embeds_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.corvetteforum.com%2F&source_ve_path=MjM4NTE&feature=emb_title
and, as always, keep on keeping on. You're doing a great job of eating this elephant.
I couldn't find the cruise cable bracket last night, so I had to CAD one up:
then bend one up from a scrap that's probably not thick enough:
then used the baller MasterCool flare kit to slightly flare the ends where the rubber sections will be clamped. That should help retain the rubber lines.
tonight I wanted to finish the fuel lines, but I had to lay out the center console first, since the console will also serve as the sheetmetal cover which makes it OK to run the fuel lines through the interior. And to lay out the console, I had to install the seats and mock up the shifter position:
I think I'll skin the console with aluminum, because I have more than enough from the pile that GRM'er akylekoz gave me for delivering a set of tires to him.
sitting in the drivers seat making rev-match noises while banging the shifter through the gears made me realize that I still need the shift knob to move forward about 3". If you look closely at the shift lever you'll see two black sharpie lines across the flat. I will cut it along the upper line, angled slightly downward to the drivers side, then turn the cutoff 180 and weld it back together. That will angle the handle forward and toward the steering wheel, which will put it right where I want it.
Oh, I found the cruise cable bracket tonight. It's way better than the POS I made.
I have more aluminum sheet if you need it.
Your bracket print looked like a print for horns at first glance.
Console / air duct / shifter mount taking shape:
Air box and filter are from an LT1 Z28 that hit my u-pull about a month ago. The width and length are perfect.
Gonna trim quite a bit of the original shape, pretty much just keeping the filter holder and hinge / latches. Will lose most of the bottom and a lot of the top, as well as some length from the elephant's trunk. berkeley, I love how this is coming together. Heading to Gainesville in 28 days.
I just parted a 94 Z28, have some stuff left over. If you need anything, like that throttle bracket, shoot me message or email. We already made our money back, so i dont much care about the rest of it.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Missing the tab like they all are
if that will work its yours, if you need an unbroken one, they were still available a couple years ago for a few bucks. Haven't looked recently, the SS needs one and haven't got around to it
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