In reply to whiskey_business :
Calculations for shaft dimensions and weld dimensions should be OK, but It's nearly impossible to find hard numbers, or even an equation, for strength reduction in HAZ. Is 50% reduction reasonable? Too high? Too low?
In reply to whiskey_business :
Calculations for shaft dimensions and weld dimensions should be OK, but It's nearly impossible to find hard numbers, or even an equation, for strength reduction in HAZ. Is 50% reduction reasonable? Too high? Too low?
For the record, whiskey_business is another of those unsung heroes on this project. Narrowed rear suspension cradle and halfshafts wouldn't exist without his effort.
i work from home Mon thru Wed, so today at lunchtime i replaced the missing seals in the master cylinder, plus drilled and tapped and installed new bleeder screw in RF caliper. no brake fluid leaks, hooray! still can't stomp test it though, because the master is not building pressure. WTF Boooooo!
and another WTF which is 100% on me: left rear rotor won't turn a full rev, it binds up in the caliper and is horribly not true. so i pull the caliper and spin the rotor and OMG where did all that runout come from? it came from me slipping a flat washer over one of the wheel studs so i wouldn't lose it, then forgetting it was there when i put the rotor on. Doh!
Not gonna lie, i'm a little deflated by the MC not building pressure. gonna order a new MC and a rebuild kit. because why not, it's only time and money.
Ordered my front A7s, going with 245/40 because the 275/35 would require more front fender trimming than i want to do.
will be hitting it hard after dinner. will update again around midnight.
Glad to hear the brakes don't leak under moderate pressure. Brakes, engine, at least one gear engaged, and steering. What else does a guy really need?
clutch pipe is bent, flared, and mostly secured.
brake master cylinder did not come back to life. new one will be here thursday. will require smalll plumbing rework.
added 2 tasks to the list. tomorrow i will prioritize "things to make go stop turn and pass tech" and everything else will become post-challenge.
This is very exciting.
I'd bet 5, that the modified part of the axles make it through the challenge without problems.
In reply to Opti :
Deal!!!
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Done, sent you my PayPal for when you lose
Lol. Sent you mine cause you're gonna need it!
wow, shiz is getting srs, there's side bets happening on the challenge this year 
AC, you'll have many hands at the ready on Friday in Gainesville, mine included. food for thought as you project manage the days between now and then 
In reply to ralleah :
I don't project manage, I work.
Go for it, man, I really want the project to be there this year, I'm pulling for you !
Today I secured twenty-six hose clamps on the cooling system (18 reused from C4, 8 new from HF assortment pack), then filled the system with 5 gallons of tap water.
Probably should have used distilled but it won't be difficult to change. So far, no leaks from any of my welds. One small weep from a 30-year-old tee which won't be hard to replace:
my 245/40 A7s arrived today. I think the only difference between 245/40 and 275/35 is the size on the sidewall. I set a 245 on top of a 275 tread to tread, and they're the same width. Crazy.
I also replaced the Flex Seal tape on the crankcase vent breather pipe with a piece of trans cooler hose I had laying around:
and I trimmed the MAF opening in the firewall, to enlarge it slightly and to move it about 1/4" toward the passenger side. Now the silicone snorkel boot is a snug pass-through, and is in the right place. Forgot to take a pic.
Seven. Seven working days left.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to ralleah :
I don't project manage, I work.
If you wind up needing the help everyone is offering, please do take the position of project manager. Someone has to keep all the hands working toward the right goal and you are the only one who knows how all the pieces go together. I offer this after seeing a recent particular project headed up by a single person start to get way out of control when the time crunch is on.
Also, I will be around on Friday and my crap is done and ready, so I can help out too, if needed.
In reply to stafford1500 :
Thanks for emphasizing what I was gently hinting at. I do think AC has that pretty well covered, but in the fog of war, etc.. Just know we've got your back, bring it on down no matter what!
My buddy Erik stopped by to help tonight, so I put him onto securing the brake tubes to the unibody, which he did well. The rest of the evening kinda sucked. Formed the last flare on the clutch line, looked over and saw the tube nut on the floor. Fixed that, tightened it all down, filled the reservoir, let it gravity bleed, pushed the pedal, and blew the tapered rubber seal out of the master. Clip wasn't fully seated. OK, try it again. Pedal doesn't move very far and is hard as a rock. E36 M3. Did I get a flywheel measurement wrong? And if so, which one? And in which direction? And what can I do about it tonight?
Hard pedal and little travel sounds like a physical limit somewhere. OK, I'll pull the slave and see what that tells me. I pull the slave and, aside from a torn dust boot, it seems fine. Internal spring pushing piston to its max travel, nothing in the way. So I start measuring stuff. Clutch fork is not bound up. Slave has about 1.6" of available stroke, but the pushrod seems short, it's only pushing the piston 1.2" when I assemble it. Weird, since the master and slave are from the same car. So I rummage around and find an old Corvair brake MC pushrod that is the right diameter but a little too long. I think and think and overthink, and I measure and measure and measure, and I think that making the pushrod 1/4" longer than the existing one should solve the problem.
overall, not the kind of night I need when there's. Only. Six. More. Days. To. Work.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Upon further and clearer thought (no lie I was falling asleep while thumb-typing that last post), I suspect my clutch pedal ratio is wrong, and I'm maxing the slave travel before the pedal has moved very far.
minor confession: I assumed 100% pedal travel should give 100% master travel, so that's how I calculated my pedal ratio. In the middle of measuring stuff last night, I texted an industry friend who says 75% MC:100% slave is a good target. And I don't think I even had a target for slave travel when I did the pedal. Today I verify math, tonight I modify pedal.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Does it work? Have you tried it engine running and does it actually actuate the clutch? I think thats your first step, if it works and you just have a very short pedal travel and you dont like it, cool you know all you need is to adjust your pedal ratio.
If it doesnt and you are hitting max travel without disengaging the clutch you have a bigger problem.
IIRC the C4 clutch pedal is a self contained unit (not apart of the rest of the pedal assembly. Would it be easier to just drop that whole unit in, then you know it should work.
You got this Patrick.
In reply to Opti :
thank you for the pointers for a logical approach. now that the cooling system is full, i can run the car and try things as-is before immediately hacking into something. the good news is there were no leaks in the clutch hydraulics and it definitely builds pressure. :-)
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
minor confession: I assumed 100% pedal travel should give 100% master travel, so that's how I calculated my pedal ratio. In the middle of measuring stuff last night, I texted an industry friend who says 75% MC:100% slave is a good target. And I don't think I even had a target for slave travel when I did the pedal. Today I verify math, tonight I modify pedal.
Saving this for my own frankenstein project with clutch pedal issues. You got this dude keep at it! \m/
Reminds me of my issues with the clutch on the TR4A Rover project. Agree that testing it now before you go changing things is the best route. In my case, the issue was mechanical as the clutch was binding due to the crank shaft being 1/4 longer on the later Rover motors. Removed 1/4 from the clutch disk and it solved the problem. Hopefully you can prove the clutch is partially disengaging and then mess with the push rod length and pedal ratio to get the pedal pressure better and full clutch disengagement. Cheering from Maryland, you will make it happen!
In reply to RacetruckRon :
gonna throw some links in here for future reference:
typical throwout bearing travel about 0.440"
hydraulic slave info from Modern Driveline
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