In reply to Javelin :
thank you.. after 5 years of the road,,its getting closer to running,, cant wait an extra 80 to 100 more hp in the ecotec 2.2 build over the oem 2.0 115 hp...should be a wee bit faster.. and better fuel mileage.. the oem got about 27 on the highway.. the 2.2 in the chevy gets about 34 on the highway, my car being about 700 pounds light, should get a little more than that..also my tank has not seen petrol for many years now.. before i washed it out a few months ago,, there was no smell,, but i did wash it out with dawn dishwashing soap and water a few time... i dont want to beat elon musk to the moon, when i weld on it
In reply to Alfaromeoguy :
Mine was all stock with the mechanical fuel injection and was a ton of fun. Yours is going to be a riot!!
all the brakes are upgraded to 12.19 vented disk pn all 4 cornersand brembo/ porsche boxster 4 pot calipers the same way , the mounts for the calipers to the car, i hade rotor hat on all 4 are 2 part.. had to make the rear hats myself.. like most of this upgrade,,not too many off the shelf part to buy for me, that would bolt onto the car.. last major thing, will be a panhard bar for the rear end... the wiring and cooling system is pretty easy to amke
In reply to Javelin :
there is something to say for a stock spider,, keep the revs up and toss it around in the corners... who need a hyper car for that.. alfas more fun
i messed up,,i put the cross-under tube under the trans..in front of the trans mount/ crossmember.. will move to the rear of the trans mount crossmember , under the trans tailshaft.. i can tuck it up higher into the body, that way
will make outer steel ring and rubber gasket to seal the pump to the tank..update.. decided not to make a steel ring,, to flexable,, will go with a 5 mm thicl al ring.. to seal the pump/sender to the tank
will use rubber bonded steel washers to bolt pump onto tank,, still will use a rubber gasket, between the pump body and the tank
finel welds.. sanded as best as i can, ready for lead wipe/ solder over the sanded welds. to do the finel tank seal
after this.. just coolent system finish and wiring... easy stuff....no shop no cnc,, most of this was built on my rear deck, the car is 8 miles away.. so build the part,, stuff onto the car... have to really think this thru
Your list is getting pretty short. I'm excited to see this one run! Better plan on getting video posted for us when you're running.
washed the tank clean.. scrubed it with vinegar them acetone.. and vinegar wash.. ready for soldering
having a hard time soldering the tank top. too seal the the few pinholes in my welds....sooooo.... JB weld the weld seams.. to cover the few pinholes that are there... JBweld website, say's it will work.... there is little to no pressure on the tank.. and will not be using/ fueling the tanks for a few weeks.. so it should cure well... any thoughts? before i make a mess?
Alfaromeoguy said:
having a hard time soldering the tank top. too seal the the few pinholes in my welds....sooooo.... JB weld the weld seams.. to cover the few pinholes that are there... JBweld website, say's it will work.... there is little to no pressure on the tank.. and will not be using/ fueling the tanks for a few weeks.. so it should cure well... any thoughts? before i make a mess?
What kind of solder are you using?
I have no personal experience, but have heard from others that this stuff is the best for fuel tanks: https://eclecticproducts.com/product/seal-all/
J-B also makes an epoxy putty that's intended to repair fuel tanks. It seems to get good reviews.
working to seal the tunnel, made a cardboard pattern,, fit it to the car.. trimmed it.. fitted it.. to get it as close as i can... ok, thats done,, traced the patter to some, sheet steel.. trimed per pattern... had to make some sharp 90 bends... dont have a bender, so thick alumiumn plate will work... clamped it with vice grips,, started to bend the 3 sections to fit...looked great after i finished.... bending 
it the wrong direction
and 1 tip.. if you are working on the ground... a sand bag is much, much better on your knees than foam pads... also great support when you are welding inside the car, for your arms
an 6 fuel lines arrived today.. fittings in a few days
i am back... had a stroke... probably due to blast damage when i was in iraq.....was having headaches for a long time... but i am back on my spider.. bought a boxster master cly for the car... had to remove the mount i made for the oem m/c.. not hard to do... making fuel lines for the car.. braided stainless steel..AN6 had trouble cutting the lines with out flairing.. even after wrapping it with electrical tape,, and using the correct cable cutters.. so i tryed this.. in the area where i wanted to but the line..i dribbled some superglue on the steel braid.. letting soak into the rubber, below it.. wrapped it with electrical tape.. waited a min. or so to let cure.. then cut the line... rounded up the hose.. removed the tape.. nice and clean.. not flairing of the steel cover.. ( sorry for any mispelled words.. still working things out
also now have a 3 inch diameter alumiumn driveshaft.. removed it from a ford aersotar awd.. cost $50.00.. to cut to size $65.00... this is a lot cheaper than a custom shaft..
and made up the rear suspension set up,, panhard bar.. and the two trailing arms,, with sperical bearings on eather end so it will be very supple, to the road
Woah, so glad to see this one back to the top! Glad to hear you're on the mend and working on the Alfa again.
I'm not familiar with an Aerostar driveshaft. How is the aluminum driveshaft secured to the U Joints?
