My god, what have I done?

In reply to Crackers :

Did M.C. Escher design that?

Epic build! 

Any plans for the turbo? Really any 16G will be the ticket for autox.

In reply to engiekev :

I'm going to stick with the unknown-spec Turbonetics that's on there for now, unless I discover it's completely unusable for autox. If I discover it's too big to spool quick enough hopefully I can find someone to swap for a 16g.

Well that was a pain in the ass...

But I'm somewhat thankful the support bracket is MIA, it at least made removal a bit easier.

I wasn't too thrilled to discover there were only 3 of the 4 throttle body bolts installed though. 
 

I was looking at the braided fuel line "routing" - AKA lying along the top of the firewall - and wondered if I should make some brackets to hang it from the strut brace instead? I've never dealt with braided lines before, but I think abrasion is a no-no, correct?

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

I'm pretty sure it's was just the most surface area they could get into the space within the constraints of a CNC bender.

Thankfully the exhaust manifold came off much easier than the intake.

I was a little concerned about this putz in the cyl 2 & 3 exhaust ports, but it was soft & felt like fuzz?

Well hell, why stop now? Off with its head!

Not that I have a berkeleying clue what I'm doing, but I think that looks like a blown HG on cyl #4, correct?

I also discovered this between #2 & 3 on the intake side. I think some rtv might have plugged a coolant passage when the engine was assembled?

There's a whole bunch of schmutz I need to clean up while I have easy access to the engine bay, the. I'll drop the pan & check a couple bearings, but other than that & putting a straight-edge on the head is there anything else I should check/do while I'm in here?

Head gasket looks suspect but to me, they all do when they're covered in oil and coolant. 

And for the next time you pull the head, and there will be a next time if you keep this car, leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on when removing the head. It actually makes for great hand holds to dead lift the head off the block. Much easier to remove the manifolds on the work bench. 

Good luck, we're all counting on you. 

White stuff is just corrosion/deposits from the coolant and water sitting in there after steaming things up.

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

Are you talking about what looks like a spot in the top right of this photo?  Looks like it connects the coolant passage to the chamber?

I posted some pics in one of the DSM groups & have had a couple people suggest that the head may have developed porosity, leading to the coolant/oil mix. That would explain the sudden failed HG symptoms after the car had been parked several years...

I think I'm going to try to rig up some kind of setup so I can check #4. 

If you do replace the head, get a 2G head and intake manifold. The 2G Head doesn't have as large of intake ports, but this is good because it increases velocity and allows a better approach angle to the valve.  The 2G head is very similar to the Evo 4-9 head in port design.  More velocity = quicker spool and better off-boost drivability.  The only thing that needs to be changed is the head stud holes need to be reamed out to fit the larger 6-Bolt studs, and a 2G thermostat housing is needed.

In reply to engiekev :

Thanks, that's good info! 

I found a machine shop about 30-miles from here that will check my head for $25, so I'm heading up there in the morning to drop it off. They said to remove the cams, but leave the valves in so they can check how they're seating too. I forgot to ask them about the rocker arms though & they didn't say anything about them either...

I also noticed these gouges on the outer edge of #4 around where it looked like the head gasket was leaking. 
 

Rocker arms and lifters probably need to come out 

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

Thanks! I'll get it stripped down tonight(hopefully) & see what they find. 

I'm thinking home made copper sheet gasket and all the boost.  

Def a leak at #4.  The bearings look suspect to me so thumbs down.  The cam looks decent though.  Those gouges are awful.  You will need copper seal to fill them or have it decked.  If thats the block, it's real bad news as #4 may always weep.

Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:

I posted some pics in one of the DSM groups & have had a couple people suggest that the head may have developed porosity, leading to the coolant/oil mix. That would explain the sudden failed HG symptoms after the car had been parked several years...

I think I'm going to try to rig up some kind of setup so I can check #4. 

Electrolysis? It happens in diesel engines unless you use a cathode additive in the antifreeze. It is more common in diesel engines but can happen to any engine I think.

If the alloy used for the head was not homogenous I can see certain elements getting leached out.

Cam bearings look fine, normal wear.

Use a composite head gasket, don't mess with MLS unless you get the block deck surface AND head machined.  Felpro FEL-PRO 9627PT is cheaper than OEM and many have good results with it. 

However that head does look like it needs to be cleaned up and decked, that's a pretty deep gouge!

Those gouges look like someone was removing an old gasket with a screwdriver and hammer.  Yuck.

I know nothing about DSMs but I'm rooting for you on this one!

In reply to engiekev :

The machine shop said $75 to deck it, so hopefully they can get the gouge out. I'll see how the bottom end looks before worrying about the head gasket. It would make sense to use the FelPro vs the new one I already have if budget allows. Though as Stampie & I were discussing last night, ultimately the car only needs to hold up for about 10-miles of abuse to get through the Challenge! :-p

The head is at the machine shop, he said he'd call me early next week. Looked like a well equipped "mom & pop" kinda place. He didn't seem phased by my "furrin" car parts despite being located out in the middle of BFE. 
 

Tonight I pulled the driver's side fore-aft subframe brace - and found 3 of the 6 bolts missing - in preparation to drop the oil pan. I also scraped/brushed a couple pounds of oil/dirt sludge off the bottom of the car. Then discovered this while I was under the car:

I'm not sure if it's possible to drop the center diff to get the pan out, or if I'd have to pull the engine/trans. The driver's side axle may prevent me from getting 1 or 2 of the bolts out of the back side of the oil pan too. I don't have the ability/capacity to pull the engine now, so I may just have to reinstall the bolts I already removed & send it. 

Speaking of the oil pan, I think the way they staggered the welds is weird. I presume it must be welded on the inside too?

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

I would certainly hope it's welded on the inside too 

You should only have to remove the transfer case and downpipe to remove the oil pan usually.