Oh yeah, desktop is way better than laptop when you're at home working on tuning and whatnot. Sure at the track everyone's like "Yeah, tune with the laptop! So sweet!" But at home the laptop makes me super impatient.
Oh yeah, desktop is way better than laptop when you're at home working on tuning and whatnot. Sure at the track everyone's like "Yeah, tune with the laptop! So sweet!" But at home the laptop makes me super impatient.
Wow!
Just finished reading your whole thread. Amazing work, indeed.
I know you're deep into your gauge upgrade, however, should you want to rebuild your stock gauges, here's another place worth looking into:
http://www.eddinsmoto.com/index.htm
Never been there and don't know him, but discovered his site a few years ago and got hooked! Lotsa neat stuff there.
Edit: google says permanently closed :(
bradyzq said:Wow!
Just finished reading your whole thread. Amazing work, indeed.
I know you're deep into your gauge upgrade, however, should you want to rebuild your stock gauges, here's another place worth looking into:
http://www.eddinsmoto.com/index.htm
Never been there and don't know him, but discovered his site a few years ago and got hooked! Lotsa neat stuff there.
Edit: google says permanently closed :(
There was a place in california I was sent to by quite a few people that said that they did Jaeger gauges (different place than the one you linked) but when I called, they said they could not do Italian Jaeger gauges, only British Jaeger gauges. Last time I priced a set of them from Lamborghini I was looking at almost $3k.
Update on the dash:
Did a test fit tonight and it fits mostly perfect, but my ring clips are off by a few millimeters and bumping into the mounting part of the dash and it's not 100% flush. I just redid the design and am printing pew pieces so I should have something to retry in the morning. Print time total is almost 2 hrs. I'm also reprinting it in PETG because heat.
Never seen this model before much classier and somewhat understated compared to the Lamborghini's you see in the media. Love it!
Ohhhhhhhhhh snap guys. Not the greatest focus, I'll get some better pics but holy E36 M3 it works.
In reply to corsepervita :
That's awesome!
Looking good!
Me after it booted
Ok guys, update. Dash is ready to go, interior is ready to go back together but I'm working on the new window switches and running into an issue.
If you go here and check out part # 39 in the diagram https://www.bullstuff.com/lamborghini-parts-manual/jalpa-1981-1988-jalpa-3-5-usa/47.78
You'll see that it's "an entire assembly" (but it isn't). The part I'm specifically discussing is that there is a tube up top where this cable runs back and forth, and a guided steel tube that curves down, and then back up the lenth of the top and bottom of the door for the window to be pulled down or pushed up.
It's an odd bugger since I'm used to seeing scissor setups on windows, but this is sort of a big cable with a wire brush that's sort of threaded into it the entire length. The gear in the motor pulls and pushes on this.
What I'm experiencing is that it's binding, bad. The window will not go up or down more than a few millimeters at a time.
- tested the motor on the driver side, it works beautifully.
- took the rod out and cleaned it and lubricated it
- cleaned the guide tube and lubricated it
- disconnected the rod from the window, and then moved the window manually up and down by hand and it is butter silky smooth.
- removed the motor from the assembly and moved it up and down, it binds
- put the motor back in, same behavior.
Now... when I took the rail entirely out of the door, it appears that it has some pry marks. Now, I never got to try it when the car arrived because the window motors were damaged and hosed. So I don't know the state of the passenger side window but it appears it must have had issues prior to arrival.
Is anyone familiar with these? Is there some sort of alignment technique? Is there some kind of special way to align it? Do I need to take it out and see if it's straight? not straight? At a specific angle?
Here's the interesting thing, if I disconnect the guide tube and move it manually it binds /less/ but still binds a little, by disconnect I mean remove the torque, so it's still in the bolt holes but loose. So I'm guessing the guide tube is tweaked, or bent, or something but it's such a weird setup for me. As you can see, a new "assembly" is about 2k so I am sure I can fix this myself but mostly am annoyed lol.
In reply to corsepervita :
That's a strange setup for sure. Do you have an actual pic of it? I understand how the cable runs through the tube, but I don't quite get how it attaches to the window, or what leverage is being applied & where it's applied to, to make the window move?
The statement "a new assembly is about 2k so I'm sure I can fix this myself." is as GRM as it gets.
To me, those gauges are the best part of the whole build and the build itself is pretty impressive! Nice job!
barefootskater (Shaun) said:The statement "a new assembly is about 2k so I'm sure I can fix this myself." is as GRM as it gets.
I mean, I've fixed the rest of the car.
Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to corsepervita :
That's a strange setup for sure. Do you have an actual pic of it? I understand how the cable runs through the tube, but I don't quite get how it attaches to the window, or what leverage is being applied & where it's applied to, to make the window move?
I can get one later tonight. The window has 2 holes for bolts in it with a plate at the end of the cable and the plate bolts up to the window.
Your windows sound very similar to the solution they used on the X-1/9 (Bertone designed mid-engined car from the 70's, so it checks out)
Poke around on the xweb to see if there some info you can glean:
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/window-regulator-cable-tangle.38850/
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/electric-windows-one-works-one-doesnt.39407/
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/electric-window-conversion.38712/
Amazing progress!
All Italian window regulators of this era are basically similar. If the cable has any slack in it it will produce your symptom. Everything has to be just right for it to work for a while. Usually a short while.
TurnerX19 said:All Italian window regulators of this era are basically similar. If the cable has any slack in it it will produce your symptom. Everything has to be just right for it to work for a while. Usually a short while.
Interesting, it doesn't seem to have slack in it from what i can see. In fact, if I move it up and down by hand without the window attached, it moves pretty dang freely. It seems to be the weird plate that slides through the mechanism almost as if it is rubbing against the rail.
Stefan (Forum Supporter) said:Your windows sound very similar to the solution they used on the X-1/9 (Bertone designed mid-engined car from the 70's, so it checks out)
Poke around on the xweb to see if there some info you can glean:
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/window-regulator-cable-tangle.38850/
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/electric-windows-one-works-one-doesnt.39407/
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/electric-window-conversion.38712/
Read through these over my lunch and they don't seem to fit the issue I'm seeing. However, this is essentially the same setup and system. There's no tangles to speak of. The single cable runs through that steel tube. Without it being attached to the window it's smooth. If I move the plate that attaches to the window at a specific angle though, it binds.
I'm starting to feel like this is an issue with the rail being tweaked. I'm going to see if i can get a soldering pick in there to try and see if there's any distance between the plate and the rail while it's mounted. I'm wondering if the rail has been bent or changed by a PO in an attempt to "fix" it and it needs moved back. Since it's binding the way it is, but moves freely without pressure on it, the only thing I can think of is that somehow this plate is misaligned.
I made this super quick and I gotta get back to work things. Ultra quick sketch up, primitive, but hopefully to get the visual across of what I see in the door.
#1 is the actual part of the plate that is attached to the cable that is part of the plate, it goes through part #3 (the rail guide). Part 2 is the plate itself. What I'm suspecting is part #1 is at too much of an angle against #3 and rubbing too hard. If the window is not attached, it doesn't have this issue. However, the window glides insanely freely without it attached. If I purposely put my hand against part #2 at different angles while trying to move it without the window glass attached, I can reproduce this binding effect.
From an angle
In reply to corsepervita :
It certainly seems to be a binding issue, now that I can visualize it. I'm inclined to agree with you that the rail is somehow damaged.
Ok, called up Lamborghinionly and spoke to Chad. Dude is cool as hell and has been working on Lambos for years. He made an interesting point which is that these setups are basically the same as the countach, as well as the window. The issue with them is that the window is concave and not straight and because of the weird curve, if they are misaligned, as soon as load is put on them, they will bind. He said it sounds like the previous owner either put it back together wrong, or messed with it. He said my best bet is to take the driver side apart to inspect for differences and said there may be stuff on the driver side for adjustment that could be missing from the passenger side.
I'll take the driver side apart tonight and take a quick look. I'm now genuinely curious and it sounds like based on what he's saying it could be that the rail is pulled too far back from the glass, maybe it needs spacers or something so as it's tryint to work with that small curve it's pulling against the rail and binding up.
Gives me something to go on.
Alright, tearing apart the door as we speak. Let's see how this goes. Also, I was told by Chad to be ultra careful with the window glass because "good luck getting new glass", he said countach glass is now fetching for 7-10k and jalpa glass isn't far behind. I tell you what, they are some weird as hell lookin' windows when I took the passenger side out.
Ok guys, update.
Got the rail out yet again, it actually seems to be pretty well inline but I'm noticing a trend. Sometimes it sticks and sometimes it doesn't now. I worked it back and forth out of the door for a while and it's making an interesting "click click click" as it goes up and down, coming from the gear itself. One of the guys on the lambo forums said sometimes the rubber tubing can start to break up and get stuck in there and it'll bind off and on. Unfortunately, the bugger is riveted up. I have a small rivet gun that'll accept 3/16 and 1/8 rivets but the ID of this thing is like.. 6-7mm. I wouldn't mind riveting it back up but I'm not sure what a good way to do that would be, so I'm hesitant to take it apart without being prepared for that.
I noticed that the gear without the motor attached is pretty loose, which I'd expect, but I also noticed it doesn't seem to flop around one way but does more another which makes me wonder if something is in there rubbing up against it. It certainly has a lot more resistance going UP than it does coming DOWN, and the "click click click" is pretty prevalent. It doesn't exist on the driver side.
I measured the rail from the door frame to the rail and the dimensions on the passenger and driver side are within 1mm of distance, so I don't think it's as out of whack as I thought previously. This is a weird bugger.
If anyone has an idea on how to rivet these things back together with some luck, I'm open to ideas. With the horrible clicking and intermittent binding with it out I feel like I should inspect it.
The ID is 6mm, looks like probably another 2mm based on the rivets. Would be fine if it were bigger on the hat. I'm not going to take it apart until I know I can get it back together lol.
I don't mind buying tools.
(edit) Found this on amazon which appears to have m5, m6, m8 and m10, which based on a lot of the fab work i've been doing would be useful, so I'll give this a go
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XT5PF69/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In reply to corsepervita :
Is there room for bolt heads? If not I would disassemble in a manner that retains the "tube rivet" as near complete as possible. Reassemble holding the assembly together with a clamp and put 2 small dots of mig weld on each rivet.
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