Poor life choices - C4 content

In reply to Crackers:

I was reading about cams and compression ratio and there's an interesting interplay where a cam with a lot of overlap will effectively lower the compression ratio of the engine, so the static compression ratio of the pistons has to be increased to compensate. The downside is it tends to move the power band higher in the engine's rev range and you start running into the flow limitations of the head.

CSM/GRM user VClassics did a nice article about it. While written for a I4 Volvo, the basic principles apply to any engine: How Not to Build a Motor

This was my discussion here, when I built my engine:

staticdynamic-compression-cam-choice-sbc-am-i-doing-something-wrong

Day-45(1.5-hours):

Even after leaving the oil pickup in the freezer overnight and heating the oil pump housing with my heat gun, I still couldn't get it pounded in. A quick check with my calipers showed almost 1/64" interference, so I carefully filed the pickup tube down to a slight taper, then was finally able to drive it in. I still need to uncoil the pickup tube a bit to get it to clear the pan baffles, but this is a start.

The main reason I didn't get more accomplished tonight is because I replied to the Craigslist ad below and went to meet the seller.

The numbers on it are 1850-4, 1165, and 6R 7809 - which I think indicates it's a 600cfm?

Supposedly it works fine, though it's missing the choke(maybe more?), but for $40 including the spacer I won't need I figured there was no harm in picking it up.

Here are a couple closer pics.

My Google-fu says that's a 4160 carb and yes - 600 CFM. Arguably a good find for $40, although it looks like it needs a rebuild.

In reply to Ian F:

Definitely planning on a rebuild, and am happy to report that Holley offers a replacement choke plate, shaft, and linkages for about $40.

That's precisely the sort of deal that swore me off used-up carburetors for good.

Seriously, I hope it works well. I had one like that that should have worked well. For some reason, it didn't after I got it all put together. Then I found the "refurbs" and thought the lack of risk was worth it. Basically, I just got lazy (and/or decided my time was actually worth some money for the first time ever).

The square bore base looks like it'll match up perfectly with your intake. That lack of adapter is good for hood clearance, which I know is of utmost importance here.

In reply to ClemSparks:

That's definitely a concern, but so is being able to meet the Challenge budget. I may still end up buying a refurb, but I'll give this a shot first.

Yeah...I've had good luck rebuilding and using them before. But I had a run of bad luck that changed my tune. I could have figured out the one I had if I'd just spent some more time fiddling with it, I'm sure. You will too. They're kind of are rocket science. But not the kind where you need to leave the Earth's atmosphere or anything, so that's cool.

The project is progressing fantastically...awesome!

the only times(plural) mine don't work right is when I don't Follow the directions,so no matter what do exactly as they say, your Idle screws and the amount the Butterflys are open are critical, then you make it fit the Cam(vacuum) and then little things like sizes of jets and shooters. complicated but not rocket science.Look at THE BOOK they have lists of what should be in the carb, If not Make it so.

I have to admit... this thread makes me want to buy a dilapidated old F-body and drop a carb'd SBC in it. Off to CL and FB...

In reply to GTXVette:

Is that a Holley tuning book?

Haynes techbook#10225 HolleyCarb.manual,there may be others but this one is right on. Your Holley Bible.and go ahead and buy the best Holley Performance rebuild kit so you don't go searching for little things copy the list number and the carb numbers on the Air horn. honestly that carb looks rode hard and put up wet,you sure you don't want me to GIVE you one? Ain't gonna ask again though!!!!

This might be of interest; http://www.hotrod.com/articles/cfm-holley-1850-tech-applications/

The article notes issues with engines that don't generate adequate vacuum. You may be in that camp with the cam you've selected, I don't know. There's probably ways around this anyway.

A holley will Tune easier at low Vacuum than an eddy but always read anything technical you can for Insite about the Quirks of mixing Air and Fuel. I even suggest studying All the air and fuel circiuts in the diagrams so you know Xactly whats going on in there.

In reply to GTXVette:

If you're dead set on giving one away I know a guy who could use one.

A Clockwork(orange)If you need a carb or advice A Good friend of Mine is just across the Border, Wolf Mountain I think, Peter lemann,He is also online at Hot rod and Car craft, Lots closer to you. and this is for Challenge,Ya'll have a Haul to get here.

In reply to GTXVette:

Well now that I have another one I feel a bit more optimistic about trying to make one good one from two! Let me know how much you need for shipping and your time & trouble, my zip is 39530.

Pretty sure this one only needs spidies and Dirt Dobbers cleaned out of the openings for Vacuum/Bowl vents, basic cleaning. I belive you will be Happy Happy.E-Mail your address to johnbpero@live.com, If I need your Money I'll tell you but for now "It's only Rock and Roll" PS Hide the one you bought.get a renew kit with Blue bowl Gaskets you may have to buy the Trick kit to get them.may be cheaper to buy the blue gaskets and a basic renew kit/ you will need nothing from the other carb,two totaly diff.carbs this one is Mo Better,sell that other one or not.I will get the carb numbers and tell you so you get the right kit while in transit,Busy in the morning but WILL get it in the Mail Tommorow. you can Grow into this one over the years(more power/Stroker).

Well... you GRMers have lured me in with another one. I'm following along here. Also thank you, because all the sbc love gave me some motivation to go fix a header clearance issue on mine.

My two cents on carbs- It would be nice if you had a buddy locally that would let you borrow a known good carb for the break in of the engine. Getting a new engine started is always nerve wracking, and having a known good fuel air mixer would be nice insurance. Then once you know the engine works right you should be able to make whatever crapcan carb you come up with work just fine. As mentioned before they kind of are rocket science and magic, but that doesn't mean they're to be feared. Be patient. I've spent countless hours road tuning Holley's, mostly because I didn't know what I was doing but I got there eventually. Once you get em set up they typically are very responsive and awesome. Oh and I've found that small adjustments can make a big difference, so don't be afraid to turn mixture screws 1/4 turn and go for a test drive.

Keep up the good work!!

Day-46(2-hours):

I discovered my new oil pickup won't work. The tube isn't long enough to reposition it so it'll clear the pan baffles.

The taller high-volume pump was also hitting the radiused bottom edge of the pan, but a couple whacks with a small hammer gave me enough clearance. I set the oil pickup height too, now I need to search around for my torch...

I picked up some heater hose, finished cleaning the oil cooler, and got it reinstalled.

While I was letting parts soak in cleaner I started cleaning the intake.

In reply to GTXVette:

Thanks!!! I'll send you an email tonight.

In reply to Gunchsta:

Thanks for the tips, kind words, and welcome to GRM!

In reply to petegossett:

I'm excited to be here! Another one for down the road that I'm not sure was mentioned- get a vacuum gauge. Once you have it running they can be really nice to help you adjust idle mixture screws for optimum vacuum at idle.

In reply to Gunchsta:

Thanks, I'm a tool junkie so I always like an opportunity to add another one to the box.

Spot weld that pickup tube. The press fit may seem tight, but it can wiggle it's way off.