Day-53(1.5-hours):
I chased the head bolt threads, coated the ends in RTV, and torqued them down in the proper sequence/steps. One down, one to go.
I also cleaned the pushrods for this side and slid them into place. I need to install the balancer, then I can adjust the valves, but I'll wait until the other head is on.
Is it truly necessary to use the balancer installation tool? Or if I take my time & lube it up really well will a bolt & washer work?
I think some boil the balancer on the stove to expand it.
In reply to SkinnyG:
Hmm...I'd thought about tossing it in the oven, but I wasn't sure what temps it would withstand before the rubber starts degrading?
I've put a balancer on with the bolt before. I think the tool is to save the threads in the crank. Make sure you have good engagement before the torque starts building. It was 20+ years ago when I did it, I would say at least 5 or 6 full turns. Use a small ratchet so you have good feel until the balancer bottoms. If it does not want to go, don't force it.
Or you can go to the local parts place and borow the tool to be safe.
PETE, PLEASE go to the Zone and borrow tool for INstall of Balancer.If you didn't use the Tool for REMOVING Blancer, tell me how you got it OFF, If you Pulled it with a 2 0r 3 Jaw puller it may be compremised,You think a wheel and tire can roll far, you should see a balancer when it comes off at 7000 RPM. PS. the Grandson is going through Bolixi this morning If any thing needs to drop ship through the ATL. and he isn't pulling a work trailer back SO.. O&F have my phone number
In reply to GTXVette:
Aeromoto brought over his balancer puller, but I'm installing a new one. I'll rent the tool to install the new one, the books seem adamant about using one, but most people online seem to get away without it. It's not worth risking my new crank over it though.
I appreciate the offer, but I can't think of anything I need to send your way...unless you need some TPI parts? 
You mean the balancer wasn't as easy to take off like the Duramax? 
In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid:
Well I think it weighs about 1/3 as much!
Day-54(2-hours):
I rented the tool.
And got the balancer installed.
It seemed to bottom out with a gap between the lip on the balancer & crank seal. Is this ok?
I also adjusted the valves on the left bank, though I'll double check them when I do the right bank.
Since two heads are better than one - especially on V engines(excluding the VR6 ) - I cleaned off the workbench and started on the right side.
I got it disassembled and cylinder 8's parts in the cleaner to soak.
The timing tab alignment looks right on the balancer.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Cool, thanks!
petegossett wrote: In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid: Well I think it weighs about 1/3 as much!
I still think it's odd the Duramax didn't require a puller for the balancer. 
Day-55(6-hours):
Way more working than pics, but I got all the valvetrain parts & head cleaned, valves lapped, and the head masked & painted. It went much quicker on the 2nd one. 
Hopefully tomorrow night I can get all the valves installed, then install the head & adjust the valves Tuesday night.
Bonus Points for posting updates on your Corvette project during the Super Bowl.
In reply to Woody:
I honestly have no idea when it started, although from the way the outside world quieted down I'm guessing it was late-afternoon sometime? I actually didn't know who was playing this year until I picked up pizza a few nights ago & the kid working was all hyped up about it. 
Ian F wrote: In reply to Crackers: I was reading about cams and compression ratio and there's an interesting interplay where a cam with a lot of overlap will effectively lower the compression ratio of the engine, so the static compression ratio of the pistons has to be increased to compensate. The downside is it tends to move the power band higher in the engine's rev range and you start running into the flow limitations of the head. CSM/GRM user VClassics did a nice article about it. While written for a I4 Volvo, the basic principles apply to any engine: How Not to Build a Motor
Still surprises me. I've been under the impression that anything with a static ratio over about 9.5:1 on a SBC was going to need some kind of race fuel.
I was still in middle school when I first heard that number tossed around by the guy that did the tuning on the circle track cars I was involved with at the time.
Its called dynamic compression ratio, it takes the valve events into consideration.
Some small cams like the lpe 211/219 for lt1s make good power with little duration by keeping dynamic compression high.
to OP: so what did you decide on the cam, are you staying with the monster you posted earlier? I ran a 230/245( lift above .050) amd a 112 lsa and vacuum was way down, and it affected power brakes, didnt really come on til about 2700 rpms and wanted to be revved pretty high on some stock lt1 heads.
Paint the harmonic balancer groove ~white~ so you can see it easier with the timing light.
In reply to Opti:
Yes, it was already installed so it's staying. I keep getting conflicting reports - several people I know state they've run more aggressive cams in street cars without any vacuum or other problems. So we'll see how this one runs & figure it out from there I guess!
Day-56(1-hour):
Just enough time to get the right head assembled.
SkinnyG wrote: Paint the harmonic balancer groove ~white~ so you can see it easier with the timing light.
I'm going to paint it's groove as well as the ones on the timing tab.
Just a thought. You might consider installing a different timing cover now (with the engine out of the car) that would allow you to swap cams with the engine in the car. It's a cost, but if you think there's a chance you might change the cam soon, you'd probably be happy you did it.
With a stock timing cover, you have to drop the oil pan to remove it. In most cars that's a pain. I expect a Corvette will be worse (but you'll know better than I do).
petegossett wrote: Yes, it was already installed so it's staying.
Sorry - you're running the big brute of a cam? What did you do about the extra lift? By my math, that cam was something like .510" lift at the valve, and most stock SBC heads can't handle more than .480".
I'm curious how happy you will be with the cam. It ~will~ sound awesome!
In reply to ClemSparks:
I was surprised, but there's about 1.5" between the pan and crossmember. It didn't look like enough room to drop the pan all the way, but definitely would give enough clearance to get the timing cover off. I'm not sure it matters though - the engine sits so low in the chassis that even if I removed the radiator & hood I'm not sure the cam could slide out.
In reply to SkinnyG:
I'm definitely taking a gamble, but that describes this whole project - particularly me rebuilding this engine - in general. If the engine fails it'll probably mean I don't make it under Challenge budget, but the whole process has made me realize I'd much prefer to not have to cut costs like I have while building an engine. I'll definitely upgrade to a roller cam, ARP rod, main & head bolts, and pay for machine work if this engine needs rebuilt again, or I need an interim solution before doing an LS2 swap.
Its the Enginetech eck888r which is an elgin cam E1067P which im pretty sure is what Edelbrock sells as their Perfomer RPM 7102 Cam.
If you want some info on it id probably search under the eddy part number.
Edelbrock recommends a 2500 to 3000 stall and I saw 10 or 11 inches of vacuum quoted at 1000 rpm idle. Eddy says it has an operating range og 1500-6500 rpm
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