Poor life choices - C4 content

In reply to Opti:

Very cool! I'd wondered if it might cross over to another manufacturer's p/n.

Told you 'Bout the easy button here that fix's 2 things. the raised retainer for the spring is lighter than stock. there is a tool that hooks to your air pressure, you hook it in the spark plug hole, pressurize and the springs can be removed/retainer. I suggest using 1 spring to do your spec check. I am all for the cam as long as it clears and won't hit anywhere.

In reply to petegossett:

I watched the kitten bowl w my daughter instead of the super bowl...

petegossett wrote: I'm definitely taking a gamble, but that describes this whole project

If my math is correct, your gamble will bend all the pushrods. :) Video the startup :)

SkinnyG wrote:

petegossett wrote: I'm definitely taking a gamble, but that describes this whole project

If my math is correct, your gamble will bend all the pushrods. :) Video the startup :)

Oh I definitely will! It turns all the way around by hand now, but I know once things get spinning at speed there's an increased possibility of things getting in the way of one another.

Day-57(2.5-hours):

Right head is on, and valves are adjusted.

So I got the oil pan installed...although one bolt is MIA, so I'll have to track it down. I also need to get the brackets cleaned & bolted onto the bottom of the engine.

I'm. It looking forward to flipping it back around after I'm done though.

In reply to GTXVette:

Ah, I was wondering how I could swap springs after the heads were installed. I'm guessing there's a different type of spring compressor you use?

I am not familiar with the L98 but some quick google-fu shows conflicting info some guys runnning more lift on stock heads and some guys saying they ran into coil bind, or retainers hitting seals, and other saying it works if you use the correct retainers.

There are enough saying they had to get machine work done to warrant a check though.

GTX Vette can probably tell you the proper way to check it, Ive never ran a big enough cam on a stock gen 1 head to even know how to check it, if its beyond, see if spring retainer hits valve seal while turning it over by hand and having a solid lifter in place.

You can generally change springs on an assembled engine by filling the cylinder with air. Others put the piston at TDC and drop some rope in the cylinder for the valve to hit.

When i did my LT1, I just put a piston at TDC, then used a compressor on a old rocker stud, and it would push the valve down a little but it couldnt go in far enough to drop in the cylinder, your mileage may vary

this is what i used

gonna make one like this next time

well Daymn, thats real clever right there, but pete the pic of the store bought one is very inexpensive, the cyl.air pressure tool screws into the plug hole, make sure your on TDC if you aren't the air will push the piston down the hole, I try not to put stuff into a cyl.that I have to "fish"out,but it's not a Bad Idea. with just one spring on the valve put calipers on top of spring measure how far down the retainer goes before it stops,that number is likly about .480 + - but if it isn't as much as coil bind.plus their recomendation of clearence we need to find some way to get it. this is over simplfication but it isn't that hard and IS Important.

In reply to GTXVette:

You mentioned "one spring on the valve" and my book says the same thing. Are you talking about how each valve spring is really 2 concentric springs? I checked, mine are welded/brazed together.

No the two springs are seperate 1 inside the other if somehow they are siezed togeather they should be seperated????? and I don't have one but there is a skinny one made for this job.can't hardly belive they use a single for that big of a cam. the info is likely in your book. got to go to work, a 1969 428 cobra jet Mach1 Mustang. pretty Sweet!

In reply to petegossett:

I can just hear it now.... (engine starts....) Vroooooooooooooom! BANG BANG POP BANG BANG BOOOOM!! (Pete) Well holy BERKING E36 M3!

Here's the install sheet for the Edelbrock 7102, it's rather insistant on what springs, retainers, and rockers should be used. I would guess this has something to do with making it work on stock heads.

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/3257102.pdf

emphasis mine

Edelbrock said: VALVE SPRINGS CAUTION: WARNINGS ABOUT YOUR WARRANTY In order for this Performer RPM cam and lifter kit to be covered under ANY WARRANTY you MUST use the correct Edelbrock Sure Seat Valve Springs or equivalent. Failure to install new Edelbrock valve springs or equivalent with your new Performer RPM cam could cause the cam lobes to wear excessively and could cause additional engine damage. 1. This camshaft is designed to function with Edelbrock Sure Seat valve springs #5703. Do not use dual valve springs with this camshaft. Special H.P. retainers may be necessary with your installation for proper spring height. Do not use rotator type valve springs or retainers for this application.

and

Edelbrock said: CAUTION: Do not use dual valve springs. Use only recommended Edelbrock Sure Seat Valve Springs #5703. Use stock ratio rocker arms only.

well O K then. so a single spring........ I'm sure they have a plan.

Day-58(1.5-hours):

My time was broken tonight, but I made some small progress. I found the missing oil pan bolt - it was still attached to the oil cooler hard line.

I cleaned it up & set it into place, but I'm thinking of waiting to bolt it on until after the engine is in place? I also installed a couple brackets onto the pan & put the oil filter on(just to keep the crud out - the engine is too big to fit into my contractor-sized trash bags).

Lastly, I dug out the valve covers, peeled all the RTV off them - seriously, I think they used a full tube on each one - then put them into the mineral spirits to soak for a while.

Great progress Pete!

In reply to petegossett:

Contractor bags do tend to be a bit small. Try your local tire store. They may have tire storage bags that may fit. I keep a couple at the house for stuff like this.

Day-59(2-hours):

A question: I have this hole above the freeze plug...

...that I thought this sensor went in...

...but it's too big to thread in. So what belongs in the hole, and where does the sensor belong? I know the sensors for each head are in the correct location, as are the other ones in the block(from the before pics I took). I didn't remove any sensors from the intake, so I'm at a loss here.

I finally have a white line on my balancer.

I also finished cleaning the intake, and started pondering whether I can adapt the original throttle cable bracket for the carb. I think I might be able to make a bracket to attach it to the rear carb stud.

I also received some free tools from a coworker of SWMBO who's moving. The pile on the right is all USA Craftsman.

This cool looking wrench was in the pile too.

Stupid question - is that hole for the dipstick tube?

maybe?

Sure looks like the dipstick hole (that small screw hole to the upper left of it is to screw in the holder)...... going to take a stab in the dark here..... is the sensor a coolant temp sensor?

In reply to Opti:

You may be onto something... I'll try that tomorrow!

Definitely not the dipstick, this is the driver's side & it's on the passenger's.

Edit: We have a winner! I'd been reviewing this pic, and kept seeing the ground strap bolt.

Zooming in I can see the sensor is above it(in the pic). So I'm thinking I just need an oil galley plug for the hole in the block.

Did that sensor come off the block? Just a quick google search of coolant temp sensors looks similar to the one Opti posted, but different than the one you posted.

I like that we just keep putting things in holes to see if they fit. :). Love the build!

In reply to 4Msfam:

Thanks!

I'm pretty sure that boss/hole are for the old style mechanical clutch linkage that went between the chassis and the block, and was probably unused in this application.