Seat and center console on their way out now!
Seat and center console on their way out now!
I think I was wrong about the location of the harness/connector. It's been a couple years since I replaced a Tip' shifter. I'm still looking for a good pic of the location. All the pics I found so far were from manual shift cars.
Without pulling my console, it looks like that harness goes below the center console, under the shifter and comes up behind it. Look where the window switch wires run.
Pic under center of dash:
Damn. Not finding it there yet. This is where I am. Actually that's a crappy shot as the parking brake is in the way. Anyway, I can get my hand, well fingers, down from the front and back, but I'm not finding it. I can also get my hands down behind the carpet near the front and all the way from the hole under the seat. I'm not finding it. Next step is to remove the park brake mechanism, the seat belts and the frunk/trunk stuff then roll up the whole left side of the carpet. Busy for the next couple of house so this is it for now,
BTW. Thanks immensely for the help.
In reply to AAZCD :
thank you. All fixed. I had to take things pretty much all the way out again. The tail with the plug on it was down to the passenger side of the center tunnel under the carpet down towards the passenger seat. Got almost everything out again to find it. I put that together and works perfectly. Thank you for your help. I feel stupid!
Glad to hear its fixed and wasn't 'broken' requiring $$$.
In reply to Gearheadotaku :
Cheers
Latest frustration is changing the ignition cylinder barrel. It's a common part with VAG group vehicles, an Audi part #. In theory it's dead easy to replace. Remove a pice of heater duct. Zero issue. Pull off the connector, zero issues. Then, loosen two set screws set into the column/ignition housing casting. This is the impossible step for me. I've got a variety of different watch makers screwdrivers. I can get them on the heads of the set screws, one is under flush and the other is sticking proud. But they are so damn tight I can't break them loose. It's to the point now where I'm damaging the threads, but I just can't do it.
Any tips for doing this? I"ve considered busting the old switch to get it out then attempting to restrain the new one in some other way.
This is a pic stolen from Pelican parts. The arrow points at one of the screws, the other is the other side hidden by the loose connector in this pic. I'll go out and snap a pic of my car with my phone in a sec.
I can't get a decent pic. I can get my phone in so you can see the head of the set screws, but it's a combination of too close to focus and too much shadow to see in to the heads.
Can you get an impact driver on there?
Tools I’ve tried
Can you get an impact driver on there?
Ignore. Another trip to Home Depot for some new tools. Another narrower headed, short but strong watch makers screw driver I got a better angle and managed to break it free. Way too much lecture on these.
Hmm The new switch has one of the locating plastic pins broken off and one of the spade terminals bent as it came out of the bag. The problem is I’ve had it for over six months and right now can’t remember where I got it from. I have to have the car back on the road today so I guess I will just try it.
Tip for future reference... I got this set from Harbor Freight on someone's tip on the 986 Forum. It makes this job a lot easier.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html
I'm so glad your on this thread a lot AAZCD. Next Q. The car still doesn't start every time without wiggling the steering wheel Now I've just been out to run some errands, I got home and the key wont come out of the ignition. Does this mean the electrical switch I got is bad and I need to change that again or is it another issue?
In reply to Adrian_Thompson :
It could be the new electrical switch. Did you have the problem before you installed it? Is the cut of the key worn? Keys do wear out. I have bought blank keys (Audi/VW) and for under $10 and had them cut by a locksmith for about $30 to make replacement keys/blades: 986Forum Key DIY . The lock cylinder itself could be the problem. It is fairly east to remove the lock if you have the key and a paperclip. Rather than explain, take a look at this video starting at about the one minute mark:
Volkswagen ignition switch repair and diasssembly
The video shows a VW ignition but the tumbler in the 986s is pretty much the same. I had one that was sticking. It was gummed up with dried grease and dirt from 20 years. There is conflicting internet wisdom about how to clean them. I used waste Jet fuel and a toothbrush - pretty much like WD-40. Some people say, don't use WD-40. YMMV.
Thanks for the reply. Late tonight, but I'll watch the vid tomorrow. Yes I have a new key cut at the dealer and programed just last year. Also yes, I was having the non start issue, but not the stuck key issue intermittently last year which is why I changed the the electrical switch/barrel. I'm now wondering if I can get the key out I can try the original key.
Another new one is $9 on Amazon so I’ve ordered it. Unfortunately I have to wait until Sunday to get it. Image, I have to wait 48 hours to get free delivery on something. The torture!!
so I’ll be parking and leaving my hat on the steering column to hide the keys when I go out today and taking a 10mm spanner to remove the negative lead!!
I know where you live Adrian
Boxster fans- watch Detroit Craigslist tomorrow for cheap Boxster for sale. No title and electrical issues both are easy fixes. I know what it’s worth. Low ballers will be ignored.
In reply to wawazat :
I also know what it’s worth, so I’ll be able to buy it back from you again even in my unemployed state
You know how they say that manual transmissions are a theft deterrent? It's the other way around in a Boxster. You'll be fine. 
Another thought... since you were messing with the shifter, does the shift interlock work correctly? The key should not come out unless it's in Park. Next: with the key in the off position, can you move the shifter (probably need foot on the brake too, I can't remember off hand). The shifter should not move out of Park with the key off.
I can verify this stuff in the shop manual or in a car if it looks like it may be the issue.
AAZCD said:Another thought... since you were messing with the shifter, does the shift interlock work correctly? The key should not come out unless it's in Park. Next: with the key in the off position, can you move the shifter (probably need foot on the brake too, I can't remember off hand). The shifter should not move out of Park with the key off.
I can verify this stuff in the shop manual or in a car if it looks like it may be the issue.
Dude, as usual you rock. Yup, no brake needed either. I can run all positions including going access to M. Will have to read up on that next.
OK, I pulled off the shifter surround and don't see the issue (again!!) What I thought was the shift interlock is actually connected, although it doesn't seem to move. Don't have time today, it's my 50th birthday party tonight so getting ready, I guess the whole center console has to come off again tomorrow to access it. Pic below of the front of the shifter area where you can see the cable, that I think is the shift interlock, connected.
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