SCCA EMod MGB GT V12 Build

How about if you have the leading edge of the trunk lid up maybe 1/2 or 1/4 inch to let air into the radiator area...?

Can you mount the rad hoizontally, at the bottom of the chassis, and a cooling fan "suck" the air through the rad from beneath the car?

Or would that look too much like some sort of Aero feature?

noddaz wrote: How about if you have the leading edge of the trunk lid up maybe 1/2 or 1/4 inch to let air into the radiator area...?

That would create lift and add drag...

loosecannon wrote: Know of any pre-fab ducts that could be attached and look good?

Here are some:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/Naca_Ducts2/a

They're not all NACA ducts, there are conventional "funnel" type ducts as well.

I was told that similar set ups have only needed really good fans to keep the car from overheating. I think I will try it as is without cutting into body panels and decide from there.

I have begun construction of the cowl. The original one is made of many bits of steel wrapped around each other and spot welded and I don't want the weight. I am using polysterene foam, carved and shaved to the right shape then covered in fiberglass. This is just the first layer of foam, another piece will go over top and shaped in a way to cover the engine. The doors will be formed in the same way.

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I stacked up some foam and am currently shaping it, the slot over the engine will be covered in the final version.

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If the fiberglass is just for weatherproofing and not strength, maybe you should plasti-dip the foam instead. Way easier and will probably look better. Definitely put some heat reflective tape on the part that faces the engine.

Make sure you cover the foam with plastic sheets or something similar before laying up the fiberglass - the resin will eat most types of foam.

Why the slot on the engine side pointing at the intake manifold?

Also for the rad ducting, can you use a solid or semi ridged 'tonneau' cover and have a large NACA duct in that that points nicely through to the rad?

No need to cover polystyrene foam, the epoxy resin has zero effect on it. After forming the whole thing, I can leave foam for rigidity or dissolve it with acetone-I'll decide later. If I use conventional gauges, I need to dissolve foam, if I use an AIM digital dash, I can leave it. As I said earlier, the slot will be covered by fiberglass, it just appeared while I was shaving foam into shape. The first layer of fiberglass has been laid down, it's going just fine but I need more practice with the stuff. As for radiator cooling, I see no reason for radical scoops or ducts until I experience an actual overheating problem-I want the car to look good.

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Dave Whitworth suggested that camber adjustments would be difficult with my set up so I purchased these nifty collars from UB Machine. They go between rod end and lower control arm and have right hand thread on one side and left hand thread on the other. [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/loosecannon/media/MGB-GT/IMG_7425_zpsa133577e.jpg.html][/URL]

And Peter Raymond suggested that my lower control arms were compromised by the bends in the tubing so I had Steve at Veracity Machining make these aluminum clamps so I can put a brace in there that is adjustable.

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I apologize if you've already mentioned this, but are you planning on putting safety washers on those single-shear rod ends?

unevolved wrote: I apologize if you've already mentioned this, but are you planning on putting safety washers on those single-shear rod ends?

Look closer, there are safety washers on all the rod ends in the pictures

Work has not stopped on the car, just slowed to a crawl. This heat wave we have been having makes the workshop very hot and very humid so I haven't done a lot. I did add some body braces to the back of the car, the first pic is a strut that goes down to the rear fender just behind the wheel, and the second pic is of the strong piece that holds most of the weight of the rear body panels. I also designed new rocker arms for the suspension and sent the diagrams off to a machine shop. They will be made of one piece billet aluminum and should look trick.

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I love this build. So. Much.

I have started construction of the doors. I only found one company that made fiberglass doors and they lost the molds in a recent move, so I am forced to make my own. I have a lot more work on this door before I start laying glass but you get the idea. [URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/loosecannon/media/MGB-GT/IMG_7440_zps9ee38828.jpg.html][/URL]

I was pondering the door problem and thought maybe some thin gauge aluminum would work and be much less trouble than the glass. I tried it on the drivers side and after an hour of fettling, it looks like this, and once the graphics are on I think it will look great.

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So much win, the aluminum looks great from my house, much less work for 90% of the reward.

That looks sick.

Wow looks great, you could probably sell those to the people who wanted FG doors.

Edit: You could have scored more points if you took the metal from an old washing machine though

I want to be able to quickly remove the front and rear bodywork and that meant the doors could not be attached to the fenders, so I needed something to keep the doors in place and in shape. I made pieces for the passenger side door and after much fiddling, they seem to be working very well.

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Finally got around to doing the drivers door:

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I have been unable to secure a driveshaft for the car so I need to either move engine forward (not practical), move the differential back (tires wouldn't line up with wheel openings), spend $5500 on a short transmission or get a shorter engine/trans combo. I have chosen to go with the last option so I have sold the 5.0 and will now have to explore different engine options. In other news, the machine shop sent me a message that my rocker arms will be done this week-yay!!! Here are some low res pictures of the car lifted in the air.

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Too bad about the 5.0 sound but I'm sure you can get a shorter engine with a better power/weight ratio. Maybe a 2GR-FE with boost? The 2GR-FZE is a costly rare engine but you can DIY something similar.