Dunno if it matters, but having those fans dump air right on top of your diffuser seems like it would make the diffuser less effective.
In reply to DILYSI Dave:
I have been reading articles on diffusers and don't get the impression that it would make the diffuser less effective but with the complexity of aero, it's all speculation without a wind tunnel. But anyways, there will be a panel behind there and air will be leaving through the holes where the taillights were, unless I can't keep the car cool that way then the panel will be removed.
I needed to improve the doors so I tried fiberglass and I tried aluminum, one worked and one did not.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKBzc9h0v1k
In reply to fasted58:
The car almost has it's own momentum now with so many people following the build. I realize that there will be great interest in it when the car makes a public appearance, so it's gotta look good. As my skills get better, I look back at earlier work and think I have to try a little harder to make it better.
I'm at the same point with my duster. But it's almost a rabbit hole with no bottom. Do we take a car that's good enough and blow it apart to improve it all with the skills we have now? And as those skills get better, do we start over again?
My solution was to call good enough good enough, and improve the quality of what isn't.
Nice job. Glad you stuck with the aluminum. I think the need for some sort of sturdy support precludes the fiberglass method. Though you could make a mold from those new aluminum doors you just made!
The evolution from the Jag to the totally committed and competitive E-Mod is fantastic.
Your commitment to the project is remarkable, your determination shown by cutting up what you have built with blood and sweat to rebuild it right.
I am digging it, wish you were in my neck of the woods. You'd have to tell me it's time to go home.
In reply to bentwrench:
Thanks, that means a lot. I sure hope that I have a solution for the engine problem soon so I can take the car apart and paint everything. I don't remember if I mentioned it but the engine still thinks it is not moving so it won't allow full power or rpm. I have been in contact with a lot of knowledgeable people but so far a solution has not been found.
New video, it's short but there will be another one soon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bx7Rv5PlJE8&feature=youtu.be
NOHOME wrote: What happened here?
Oh, sorry. The engine problem is fixed! After a lot of brainstorming and research, Bad News Racing sent me a tune to try and it worked! The speedometer works and the the engine is no longer cutting power. The indoor kart track is far too small to really test it but it seems that I have enough power to overwhelm the brakes so it's a good start.
OOOOppppssss.
Forgot that you split the thread. I was looking for the post where you were getting input into the problem. Thought they had been deleted for some reason. Carry on
In reply to NOHOME:
That other thread was just to get some feedback from people who maybe aren't following this build, but now that the problem seems solved, it's back to normal on this one
The disassembly has begun
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What polar moment? There's no weight past either axle centerline, at least that I can see.
Maybe I need more education on polar moment of inertia.
I think you guys are right, everything (except the rad) is between the wheels so it should turn very quickly. I will be working hard to get it painted this week, then assemble next week and maybe dyno the week after that.
Dusterbd13 wrote: What polar moment? There's no weight past either axle centerline, at least that I can see. Maybe I need more education on polar moment of inertia.
My point exactly.
The car is fully pulled apart now
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https://youtu.be/qh0KqyXKxHE
Once you reassemble the car, you're halfway done. The next half will be tweaking and tuning the living E36 M3 out of your setup to get every last bit of potential out of it.
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