Still hunting info... So far this is pretty much the only other one I've found online, and the part number listed doesn't really bring up anything else helpful.
Hopefully the ony off my parts car is a more common one, otherwise I'm probably on the lookout for a cheap 3G.
AWESOME to get the car running again. Congrats.
It always helps to have a new set of eyes on it when you're trouble shooting.
Got the Innovate LC-1 Wideband wired in last night.... Unfortunately, that's not the end of the story.
LC-1 wired into the ECU, and the reading reads pretty lean. I did that heater and free air calibrations, and it is still reading pretty lean. Went to hook up my gauge and see if it reads the same, and I notice that both of my AFR gauges are narrowband. Not super helpful. Now, the LC-1 can be programed to send different voltages for AFR, but I have not been able to hook it up to my computer yet because I need the terminator plug, or to make my own. I suspect the settings on the LC-1 do not match up to the settings on the ECU, and that's why it's reading lean.
So I ordered an AEM wideband, and hopefully it will get here Friday or Saturday. I'll use it as my primary, but when it comes time for the challenge, I'll use it to verify the Innovate LC-1 since it's already within the challenge budget.
Also, according to the documentation, the LC-1 should be mounted 24 inches behind the turbo on the exhaust. I don't think my exhaust is 24 inches total! The stock location for the O2 sensor is on the downpipe flange directly after the turbo. Anyone know if I'm going to ruin O2 sensors, or if I won't get a proper reading or something being that close to the turbo?
EDIT: A quick google shows that the stock location will overheat the sensor, at least at WOT. Probably ok for now, but I'll want to weld in a bung for the new sensor to be safe. I'll have to re-design my exhaust heat shield / firewall a bit.
video of your car getting owned by my V8 944 at GRM $2008 Drags:
V8 944 with slipping clutch dips into the 13's
EDIT: after watching again, you might have run me down. I didn't get a win light. :-(
AngryCorvair said:video of your car getting owned by my V8 944 at GRM $2008 Drags:
V8 944 with slipping clutch dips into the 13's
EDIT: after watching again, you might have run me down. I didn't get a win light. :-(
That's awesome! Now, that was Dave driving, I only just acquired the car last year. Still super cool to see more media of it in action!
Note: If you would have went up against me at the $2017 challenge, I guarantee you would have won... Due to my running issues I only did one run at something like 22.5 seconds. LOL! (It crossed the finish line which is all I wanted last year. This year will be more fun...)
A few years later, the car was running over 100 in the quarter (that is where the 100 MPH Club sticker) came from at the Pittsburgh Motor Speedway. My 60 foot times were always poor with the stick axle, so Pat had me off the line, but the car was crazy fast once it was rolling.
I have no doubt that you will have it running even better times soon!
Wiring is almost done, just have to finish wiring and mounting the gauges and then I can move on. Well, I say done, I should say done for now. Everything is wired properly with only what is necessary, everything else deleted. The engine bay it pretty clean now wiring-wise, but behind the dash is a bit of a mess. Eventually I'll go back and try to mount everything in a slightly more organized manner. Probably around the time when I make a digital dash for it.
Next up before Carlisle: Brakes, Tuning, General Checkover.
Brakes: Looking at the brakes again...... I don't seem to have any brakes, at least in the rear at the moment. That leads me to believe there is a leak somewhere, so I have to take a look at that. Depending on how bad, I may have to swap some things around and see how horrible running with just front brakes is for Carlisle... Burnouts anyone?
Tuning: With Tuner Studio on my laptop I can let it tune itself, but I need to drive it around. But it's not street legal. So that presents an issue... I do know a cop that might be able to hook me up with some way of testing it out a bit, have to talk to him. My plan for now is to start with just the stock boost, which is 8psi I believe. If it seems like the car is running properly, then I'll look at turning up the boost, and if not, swapping blocks. (Though not before Carlisle)
General Checkover: just a final check of nuts bolts, etc before the event.
Since I didn't have a picture in the last post, here's some pictures of mounting my new O2 sensor bung. I'm really liking these step bits!
The AEM manual said to place the sensor at least 18 inches downstream from the turbo due to heat that can damage the sensor. THe stock O2 sensor location is directly behind the turbo, so I had to weld in the included bung. It's less then 18 inches from the turbo still, but hopefully it's enough. There just wasn't any better place.
(No pictures post weld because it wasn't super pretty... Not bad, solid and sealed, but not pretty. I'm still learning and different thickness metals is tricky.)
Gauges in place now. Just hooked up tach, AFR and boost for now. Still not happy with how messy behind the dash is, but it'll have to do for now. Hopefully I can clean it up before the challenge.
Engine bay is decent now though... Will wrap the harness in something sooner or later.
Next up is brakes... Right now the pedal has no resistance at all. The rear brakes are not functioning. The front brakes seem to function, just by trying to spin the wheel myself while the pedal is pressed down, but I don't really trust it. Wish how the lines are run, I'm not sure I can even try putting in one of the single output master cylinders I have. Might have to eBay something that fits better or fab some sort of pedal box. Space is so tight though....
Also going to look for a 3G alternator today because my battery already hates me enough...
I have a Windstar alternator in near new condition if that would fit...
Any updates?
In reply to Greg Smith :
Not too much. Been busy with some house things and got the parts e28 out of the way over the weekend. I have been messing with alternator stuff. Can't get either of the stock ones to function at a proper voltage. Ordered another 3G alternator (upgrade), so hopefully 3rd time is the charm for fitment... Hopefully that will be in sometime this week and I can bring it next door to your house next week for some tuning time. Autocross on the 16th.
I'll just leave this here as well...
In reply to AWSX1686 :
What about simply running without the alternator? Less load on the engine, you could probably find a decent battery (weight) and charge it between runs.
In reply to Greg Smith :
At minimum I would have to have some sort of pulley or shorter serpentine belt to keep the water pump running. I'd much rather actually have an alternator though.
Any alternator from the 87-88 years on a 2.3 Ranger should also work and be cheap. 2.3 was used on so many of those small trucks, surprised this has been an issue, guess the one on the parts car was also not working?
In reply to dherr :
The alternator on the parts car was the exact same as the one on the Spitfire when I got it from you. They might work fine, given the proper wiring, but so far I have been unable to figure out what that requires. If you hook up the "A" pin to the output post it generates power, but they are both pushing ~16v when it should be ~14v.
So I got a Ford 3G alternator mounted now. Took a little bit of messing with the wiring to make it work, but I figured it out. The insight from getting that one to work might actually help with figuring out the other alternator wiring. For now I'll leave the 3G on though.
Next issue that popped up, is it seems like it wants to overheat... I didn't let it get too too hot, but I have to look at that. My first inclination is the thermostat, but I suppose it's possible the water pump could be bad. Easy enough to check either one, just another thing to do.
In reply to AWSX1686 :
That looks like a drag race tank. Bottom feed tanks are frowned on by most groups.
Swapped the tstat Monday night. Still wanted to run hot. Seems like I still have air in the system. Hoping I can get the air out tonight, and the hopefully I can do some tuning on Thursday. Friday I have other responsibilities that evening, so all the time I'll have is to get everything loaded up for the morning.
I may also be on the lookout for a stock IHI turbo, have a T3 or a T4 potentially as trade....
Decided to run with no thermostat to simplify things and make bleeding the coolant system way faster and easier. Took out the thermostat and filled the system with coolant mix. Yeah, it definitely had air pockets, because it was definitely not filled enough. I added almost a gallon. Good news is, everything seems to be running fine now, we'll see how much I even need to run the fan!
Also finalized the alternator wiring, it's charging well, well enough at least.
Hooked up the BOV that came with the car. Seems to be working... (had deleted it in process of on the fly diagnosis at the $2017 challenge)
Messed with the tune a bit to put it more in the safe side till it's more finely tuned. Hopefully will have some auto tune time tomorrow. And maybe a bit if a car wash.
Jacob took a video of some revs, once I get that from him I'll share it. Was hoping for some flames, but it's not shooting flames yet.
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