1993 Ford Escort KL swap / SCCA SMF build

I'm loving this build thread. I can't wait to see this thing in person!

So i heard u liek things.

And this is where i realize how expensive AN stuff is. I went back and tallied... i have ~$1000 in the fuel setup on this car. Shoot me now. This little bundle of joy ran me $325. :(

Laying out the routing.

Cooling hoses are all done save for the main big radiator hoses.

Oh hai how YOU doin?

This whole thing looks like E36 M3.

wvumtnbkr wrote: This whole thing looks like E36 M3.

You guys will all laugh when you see the completed pictures when it rolls out of the driveway. It is REALLY not a nice car at all.

Mounted the oil filter relocation stuffs!

-10AN fittings are large. That's a GarageStar knob and extender mixed in.

The last of the -10AN stuff came in, along with a Blox coolant overflow tank and a vacuum reservoir.

And yes i realize that at the moment, the filter relocation setup looks pretty useless.

But 1) this keeps the filter away from the front header
2) this gives me a second port (one of the fittings has a gauge port in it) for oil temperature, and there's a port built into the blockoff
3) Makes it easy to plumb in an oil cooler setup later. (Already have the fittings and spare line)

please tell me youre going to cut the excess off your hose clamps, and then heat shring them. they will look much, much nicer that way.

Dusterbd13 wrote: please tell me youre going to cut the excess off your hose clamps, and then heat shring them. they will look much, much nicer that way.

I was planning on trimming some of the ones with the longer excess, yes...

But heat shrinking hose clamps? Not familiar with that. Tell me more?

Like many things on this build, (including the motor itself) the hose clamps are temporary until i place a large order for many t-bolt clamps.

this build is evar...

put the hose clamp through a piece of heat shrink. tighten clamp.

the heat heat shrink. truns them black and makes them look slick.

michael

Dusterbd13 wrote: put the hose clamp through a piece of heat shrink. tighten clamp. the heat heat shrink. truns them black and makes them look slick. michael

Interesting.... thank you! I'll probably do that.

Dusterbd13 wrote: put the hose clamp through a piece of heat shrink. tighten clamp. the heat heat shrink. truns them black and makes them look slick. michael

You mean like this??

Been following along - loving this build. One thought from the pic above - don't know how much the motor is going to move around, but the fuel line between the rear-most fuel rail and the regulator looks awfully short. When the engine moves it's going to be pushed/pulled on rather than 'bent'. Those hoses don't mind being bent within reason; but they don't much like being pushed; and they don't like being 'pulled' much at all.

MichaelYount wrote: Been following along - loving this build. One thought from the pic above - don't know how much the motor is going to move around, but the fuel line between the rear-most fuel rail and the regulator looks awfully short. When the engine moves it's going to be pushed/pulled on rather than 'bent'. Those hoses don't mind being bent within reason; but they don't much like being pushed; and they don't like being 'pulled' much at all.

Thanks for the kind words!!

The picture is a bit deceiving. There's more slack in that line than it looks like in the picture, but i will double check it today and make sure i don't have to make a longer length, i've got plenty of extra at this point.

As for the motor moving... it's probably not going to move much, if at all. All mounts are solid 98duro.

Catch can is plumbed, lines are cut.

My buddy is creepin'.

Tractor Supply Co radiator brackets!

Vacuum reservoir mounted.

Coolant overflow mounted.

Coolant neck sensor ports blocked off. (AEM water temp gauge will go in one of these.)

Still catching up - what kind of motor/displacement? What type of induction system is that? Love the look under the hood - all business! Which means all pleasure!

In reply to MichaelYount:

Thanks! It's a mazda 2.5 v6, but a combination of about 5 variants at this point.

The throttles are a custom setup using Suzuki GSXR 1000 units with a Kinsler linkage. I have some more little updates to make that i'll post tomorrow, right now i'm fighting with a bad alternator on my daily driver.

Finished Tractor Supply Co brackets!

Built a vacuum system:

Test fit bumper and lights. (Factory grill isn't going to work, i'll figure out something in Spring. Don't care right now.)

Radiator is slightly crooked, will have to bend down the driver's side mount. (Support is probably twisted.)

Well this couldn't have possibly worked out better!!!! (Fog lights will go in the smaller rectangle holes on the sides.)

De-loomed fuse box harness. Will rebuild from scratch the alternator and starter circuit. Have no idea what the yellow/red wire with the white plug on the end is. Anyone got ideas?

Going to be stripping at least half of this stuff out. Unless i'm missing something, the only things i need in the body harness are starter, alternator, reverse light sensor thing on trans, headlights, turn signals, and foglights. (I can't seem to find the plug for the wiper motor. Oh well, i can worry about that later.)

Another trip to Earl's. Russell Ford Spring-lock to -6AN adapter, and a contraption that will hopefully work to get the return adapted to -6AN. berkeleyin' nylon lines ARE STUPID.

Stay frosty, my friends. (Yes, i'm still daily driving it with the stickers from the Challenge.)

teh sekc

I think i've made a good friend at Earl's by this point.

Brake lines are finally set up and ready to go. SO glad i got new brake line clips from Napa. PRETTY.

Can anyone spot the problem? This picture is at not quite full droop, spring is not compressed, but is still at the mount.

Testing endlinks. Might have an issue. (Besides the fact that there's no bushings yet.)

Wow Ben, I can't wait for you to get this done!

So I can buy it for pennies on the dollar....

In reply to 92CelicaHalfTrac:

Reverse the sway bar so the arms are above the tie-rod ends, use longer studs to space the arms to clear everything.

In reply to petegossett:

Heh... Hopefully more pennies in the dollar than normal if this thing pans out. If you want one of my cars for pennies on the dollar, buy the Celica!!!

In reply to turboswede:

That stuff is fine, the bar and tie rod will always move the same distance because macstrut.

I didnt capture the angle too well. Sway bar looks like it'll hit subframe if i get more than about 2" of upward travel. I'm not sure that the car will ever see that kind of travel with these spring rates though.

Anyways, i think i can have the rodends shortened a little bit too help, just trying to avoid grinding the subframe.

Worked on a thing.
Painted that thing.

Car has axles. Went right in, too!!! That never happens!!

This looks hilariously out of place inside the EGT's absolutely terrible interior.

Laugh all you want... but something like this is probably going to happen. Having a 5" extension made in place of the two 2.5"s threaded together. The Pace****ter STS just drops the knob down too far, and shift effort with the fresh bronze bushings is a bit too high without the extension.