I bought this car ~6 months ago as a potential first car for our soon to be 16 year old son. It has turned out to be more of a project than I planned on, especially given that I have slightly above zero mechanical knowledge. I eventually had it towed to the local Volvo specialist who reported that the timing chain went and that the valves are toast. Initially I thought about trying to part out the car, in hopes of getting my money back (or close to). Then we started thinking about swapping in a used motor. But when I finally went to collect the car from the Volvo shop, one of the technicians told me that I could be a reconditioned head with valves for ~$300. So, in theory, if I could get it running for that, plus a bit more, I'm interested in doing so. The goal would then be to strip the interior and use the car as a rally-x entry.
Does it sound like his re3commended course of action would work? If so, where would I buy such a reconditioned part?
Given my lack of ability, if we undertake this, I'll need boatloads of hand holding. Nevertheless, it seems like something that we could dive in on and finally learn more about working on our own cars.
My first question is the current placement of the engine. It looks low on the passenger side to me, especially when looking at the car from underneath. Any insights?
It looks like there is supposed to be a motor mount under that fluid reservoir on the passenger side on top of the frame rail and yours either isn't there or isn't connected.
Guide to replace with pics
Big aluminum bar is top of mount.
Yeah, looks like an engine mount problem to me. I've installed cylinder heads on T5s, but not in that chassis. You'll need a special tool to set the cam cover onto the head after you install the head bolts (and technically for cam alignment with the VVT pulley). I think i bought mine for ~$80 ten years ago, might be cheaper now.
My mom has been driving whiteblock Volvos (that i maintain) for i think over 10 years now. I certainly like them well enough..
"Slightly above zero mechanical knowledge" implies you've never had the cylinder head off a car. This is not an ideal first head job.
I'd hunt up a complete used engine, and even that is an iffy proposition for a low skill mechanic.
Looks like that engine uses a timing belt, not chain, and is an interface engine. Should be easier to repair and less likelihood of other collateral damage from a broken belt than a broken chain.
It should be as easy as swapping the head, filing down any dings in the pistons and installing the new belt with the engine timed.
The cheapest recon heads I have seen were $800 and not sure that it was for this flavor of engine. There are at least five or six incompatably different 5cyl heads, depending on distributor or no, variable cam timing on one, two, or zero cams, and another type that looks like a completely different species.
Figure about another $800-1000 for gaskets and one-time-use bolts and whileyou'reintheres (spark plugs, coils, timing belt set, PCV trap/hoses) and some of the special tools you will need.
The website makes my computer throw up, but I bet Erie Vo-Vo has a complete engine assembly with a one year warranty for $1300-1500. Granted you will still want to put a timing belt and PCV trap and hoses on it, but at least you won't put it together and then find out that your block's deck wasn't as straight as it could have been and losing an ignition coil allowed the weakened junction to blow the head gasket sky high again.
Ahem,
$1850 lifetime warranty, $1150 90 day warranty
After discovering how intensely expensive some of the one-time-use parts are ($300 gasket sets, $12 bolts...) I am all for buying a replacement engine from a reputable place like this. It's the cheaper option.
Why do I have the block disassembled for a failed head gasket? Funny you should ask.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Not to thread-jack, but I know you work on a ton of these. Out of all the Volvos made between, say, 1995 and 2010, which platform/powertrain combo do you hate the least? P1 V50? P80 V70? 2.4 NA? LPT?
In reply to pointofdeparture :
I still liked my Nedcar S40 for a variety of reasons. Easiest to work on is probably a front drive nonturbo P2. I would not say "hate the least" because they are all fairly enjoyable to work on.
I bought a P2 in part because they are probably the easiest modern cars to work on, and as a bonus they seem to hold up extremely well too. So "easiest to work on" is just a bonus because you really aren't wrenching on them much. (EXCEPT for the accursed ATE calipers that Volvo used on pretty much everything. But that is the same junk that Ford and Mazda and BMW used, it is not like that is Volvo specific)
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
The cheapest recon heads I have seen were $800 and not sure that it was for this flavor of engine. There are at least five or six incompatably different 5cyl heads, depending on distributor or no, variable cam timing on one, two, or zero cams, and another type that looks like a completely different species.
Figure about another $800-1000 for gaskets and one-time-use bolts and whileyou'reintheres (spark plugs, coils, timing belt set, PCV trap/hoses) and some of the special tools you will need.
The website makes my computer throw up, but I bet Erie Vo-Vo has a complete engine assembly with a one year warranty for $1300-1500. Granted you will still want to put a timing belt and PCV trap and hoses on it, but at least you won't put it together and then find out that your block's deck wasn't as straight as it could have been and losing an ignition coil allowed the weakened junction to blow the head gasket sky high again.
If I were to go the route of the $1150 90 day warranty motor, how much would I need to budget tof the timing belt, PCV trap, hoses, etc?
In reply to dyintorace (Forum Supporter) :
Hard to say exactly. I usually leave the really expensive hose alone (the one that has the coolant lines routed to it) but make sure it is not leaking or plugged, and replace the other soft hoses. The trap is also the oil filter housing on these IIRC so it is probably more than $30-40.
IPD sells everything in a refresh kit, or you can buy things piecemeal. Rock Auto also sells hose kits.
If you're going the used engine route, make sure you read the fine print on the warranty. Sometimes they only warranty the engine if it's installed by an ASE certified mechanic.
If you're going that route, you may find a new Harbor Freight hoist may be less expensive than buying a used hoist. Hopefully you can leave the AC compressor in the car while you pull the engine so the system stays sealed.
FCPeuro is another good source for euro parts. Usually more expensive than Rockauto, but they usually only sell OEM or OEM equivalent parts.
FCP Euro is a good place too. I bought most of the stuff for my 2.4 block from them.
Their parts catalog is not 100% accurate. They did not list my rod bolts, but when I did a search for the part number instead of by application, they came up as being only for '10-up engines, instead of '02-up. They worked just fine 
Definitely not the first time I've had to outsmart a parts catalog...
