I use this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDDOXG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000LDDOXG&linkCode=as2&tag=alesoddotcom-20
It has treated me very well.
I use this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDDOXG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000LDDOXG&linkCode=as2&tag=alesoddotcom-20
It has treated me very well.
foxtrapper wrote: Depends on the metals and the temperatures. Anyhow, here's an entertainingly odd one for you. Milk of Magnesia. Used on jet engines.
Which ones? Not ours.
HappyAndy wrote: I love antiseize, I use it like Franks hot sauce. In reality, hot sauce doesn't go with absolutely everything, sometimes you need something sweet or buttery or sour. The situation may be comparable with your fasteners Tuna. For example, is the problem being caused by the heat, or the friction of the torque on the threads? One of my clients is a company that specializes in large specialty fasteners for iron and steel construction work. They recently had a QA problem with a batch of nuts and bolts. The nuts and bolts both had some kind of coating applied to them, as per the end users specs. The bolts and nuts passed all of my clients in house inspections and tests, but failed the end-users testing. It turned out the problem was related to the coating, yes the coating that the end user specified. It turns out they needed to use a different slightly oversized tap on the nuts that were going to be coated. The difference was so small that my clients testing equipment didn't pick up the difference, But in the field the parts didn't torque down right. I've also seen that some of the newest style spark plugs have the last few millimeters of the threads smooth instead of threaded, this is supposed to help reduce plugs getting seized into the threads on the head. The theory is that carbon sticks to the very last few threads on the end of the spark plug in the combustion chamber. The carbon is harder than the aluminum cylinder head and it jams up in between the threads of the plug and the threads of the head causing seizure and damage. By having the last bit of the plugs smooth, instead of threaded, the carbon has less to stick to. It seems to work. I've never had a stuck plug on a head using that style plug, and the ones installed at the factory do not use antiseize. I guess what I'm saying is, if you don't find an antiseize that works, but can determine why its seizing, there may be other ways to solve the problem.
This issue is fleetwide over a wide range of bolts/studs/nuts in a wide range of applications in our machines. Research indicates that Heavy Duty turns into a grey powder at the temperatures and clamping loads we use it at.
Thanks for the info, though.
tester wrote: In reply to tuna55: Are you using Loctite LB N-5000? It is different than their regular high temp anti seize. Wolfrakote top paste might be another option.
We tested it in the past and didn't like it. Nickel has since been abandoned for other reasons. It's cousin N-7000 was tested and found to be equivalent in performance to Heavy Duty.
I use graphite powder for anti-seize on high heat parts such as exhaust manifold bolts and pipe threads use in exhaust.
Cone_Junkie wrote: The problem with using anti seize on spark plugs is that you reduce the heat sink capabilities of the threads. I no longer use it on spark plugs, but I do use a torque wrench on them religiously.
I have seen anti-seize used in temperature probe wells for its heat conductive properties.
The first time I saw Loctite anti-seize I thought, wow what an oxymoron.
tuna55 wrote: It's not strictly GRM, but I think you'll have some good opinions. Assume Loctite Heavy Duty is crap for temperatures about 500 F Assume we want the stuff to be good to 1000 F Pretty much assume we want it to pass MIL-PRF-907F, with really big bolts (2" max diameter, which is about 5500 lb ft). What's the absolute best antiseize out there? Unfortunately, I won't be able to publish the results of our testing.
What type of metal are you using, stainless?
The Loctite Heavy Duty Anti-Seize(for stainless applications) is supposed to be good from -20f to 2400f.
If that is somehow what didn't work, try the Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize as it is basically the copper stuff without the copper. It also has the same temp span as the heavy duty.
yamaha wrote:tuna55 wrote: It's not strictly GRM, but I think you'll have some good opinions. Assume Loctite Heavy Duty is crap for temperatures about 500 F Assume we want the stuff to be good to 1000 F Pretty much assume we want it to pass MIL-PRF-907F, with really big bolts (2" max diameter, which is about 5500 lb ft). What's the absolute best antiseize out there? Unfortunately, I won't be able to publish the results of our testing.What type of metal are you using, stainless? The Loctite Heavy Duty Anti-Seize(for stainless applications) is supposed to be good from -20f to 2400f. If that is somehow what didn't work, try the Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize as it is basically the copper stuff without the copper. It also has the same temp span as the heavy duty.
Most of our bolted joints are carbon-carbon.
The nickel stuff tested very poorly, as did Heavy Duty. We don't believe they live up to their claims in terms of temperature.
tuna55 wrote: OK, more restrictions. No Nickel No Silver No Lead
Scratch my previous post. Loctite 51605(9oz brush top) is supposed to be metal free and is meant for stainless applications with 2400 degrees. Edit: It is graphite/calcium fluoride and is the one you believe will not work.
carbon to carbon?!? Nothing from Henkel is specified for that application, I suggest you talk to a rep or just look into Teflon coatings.
yamaha wrote:tuna55 wrote: OK, more restrictions. No Nickel No Silver No LeadScratch my previous post. Loctite 51605(9oz brush top) is supposed to be metal free and is meant for stainless applications with 2400 degrees. <<<<Has the Henkel catalogue in front of him.
That is Loctite Heavy Duty.
They start the machine, it warms up, puff of smoke, it's gone. Grey powder remains.
yamaha wrote: carbon to carbon?!? Nothing from Henkel is specified for that application, I suggest you talk to a rep or just look into Teflon coatings.
Coatings don't work well because they have to be field applicable. The field can literally be a field depending on the site, so fancy stuff and fancy application methods won't fly.
The bigger stuff ends up in bolt world, where the king of bolt world works on them before they go back on. The smaller stuff just gets thrown into a bin. The bolts themselves may be out there for decades all told, and get taken apart a few dozen times.
T.J. wrote: Neolube 1260.
Did you rule this one out?
In reply to tuna55:
IDK then, consider me stumped.
The catalogue doesn't go into detail about the N-7000 you mentioned earlier, but what the spec sheet claims, it is metal free and good for high heat.
Used to use some type of Mil-Spec anti-sieze on military helicopters I worked on. Rotor blade pins on Chinooks and Huey elevators mainly. Been a long time so don't remember the specs anymore, will have to look it up. But I do remember if you didn't use that stuff properly it would sieze whatever you applied it to. Had apply a thin coat then wipe it off and that was just right amount.
T.J. wrote:T.J. wrote: Neolube 1260.Did you rule this one out?
The temperature they claim is too low.
Neolube said: Neolube No. 1260 will have good lubricating properties up to 390°F for a considerable period of time.
My go-to right now is T8E as it's what we found worked well in our aviation division. I am going to test it alongside a few others.
Sorry I couldn't help Tuna, you could contact Henkel and see what they say. They're the experts that I sometimes have to refer to.
yamaha wrote: Sorry I couldn't help Tuna, you could contact Henkel and see what they say. They're the experts that I sometimes have to refer to.
I REALLY appreciate you trying.
tuna55 wrote:foxtrapper wrote: Anyhow, here's an entertainingly odd one for you. Milk of Magnesia. Used on jet engines.Which ones? Not ours.
Don't know who is "ours", but I've used it on TF34's and T56's when I was an AF jet mech. It was a standard issue anti seize for both the Air Force and the Navy on their jet engines.
In reply to foxtrapper:
TF34 is ours. We don't use that anymore, at least we say we don't. I don't work in aviation, so I only know what I've heard thirdhand.
tuna55 wrote: In reply to foxtrapper: TF34 is ours. We don't use that anymore, at least we say we don't. I don't work in aviation, so I only know what I've heard thirdhand.
Could be. Been over 10 years since I worked on jets. May no longer be in use.
Though beware of names. It was called something else, just don't remember what.
You'll need to log in to post.