Corv-Am

I liked the Corv-Am, but the article was decidedly too short. Not enough pictures and not enough detail.

I was surprised at how small the cockpit was. The car is huge and the one cockpit picture made it look almost F1 tight.

I'm guessing the handle between the legs is an emergency brake since the buttons on the steering wheel controls the shifter? Which GM automatic is it that "manual transmission-like engine braking and instant gear command"? Not a stock one that's for sure. How's it been modified?

Is there anyplace to see a build log or other pics like the Atom build had?

I too would like more info on that car. What are the dimensions (wheelbase and track especially)? The car looks humongous in the pics, but that may be because of the perspective or because it is really low.

TJ wrote: I too would like more info on that car. What are the dimensions (wheelbase and track especially)? The car looks humongous in the pics, but that may be because of the perspective or because it is really low.

I'm guessing that he ditched the torque tube and bolted a Corvette driveline continuously from engine through transaxle. That would explain the length, and avoid the cost and complexity of a quality middie transaxle.

Very interesting car. Not enough data though.

Steve here, the builder of the Corv-Am. I'd be happy to answer any questions. Yes, the car is a "full size" car, the same width as a Corvette (72" wide and 60" track) and probably a little longer. The wheel base is 110". Yes, it is the basic Corvette drive line with the torque tube eliminated, with the use of a Yukon bell housing and an aftermarket torque converter (Yukon would also work.) The cockpit is small, less room to bounce around in a crash. The lever between my legs is a shifter, I still have to select PRNDS, S being sport mode that allows the "tap up" "tap down" shifting. Tuning software allows me to keep the torque converter locked to reduce heat and provide engine braking. Other than the tune adjustment and the bell housing and converter the transmission is stock. I keep looking for aftermarket parts to the 6L80 but none are produced yet.

If there are other question I am more than happy to fill you in.

Steve

I'd love to see a pic of the bare frame or the car with the body removed.

I note you are offering them for sale

Will there be a manual option?

What is the price (approx) for a vehicle?

Is it a kit or turn key?

Thanx for answering our questions Steve. You said tuning software lets you keep the torque converter locked up (at all times?) to allow the engine braking - what kind of software? I've never heard of any software that lets you do that to an auto.

Does this software also give you instantaneaous shifts ala a manaual?

I posted a couple of pics in my profile and can send more. I should just get them up on my website: AandDracing.com

RE: manual transmission. I have not researched this enough. One of the reasons I chose the A/T was availability and cost of a good shifter.

Also during my research I came to the conclusion that for racing a manual you want sequential shifting, so this A/T is my poor mans sequential gearbox.

The other thing I've been told but not looked into it is the manual is mounted at an angle and would require an adapter to be machined to rotate it or a custom bellhousing. At this point you may want to consider other manual options such as the Porsche or an aftermarket transaxle.

Thanks for chipping in, skolrud! It's always interesting to hear from the source when something as interesting as your car comes along. So basically, you use the original auto gear selector to get the car in motion, and the buttons on the wheel are connected to the "tap" sensors? That's a pretty ingenious solution! Have you had to stoke up the internals any to handle the HP? Any research upon how much the thing could handle stock?

EDIT: Doh! Just saw in your other post the internals are stock..(where's the forehead slap icon?) still wondering about HP capacity, tho.

In reply to aussiesmg:Re: kit.

I would like to build more of these, as of yet there is not enough interest. I had mine for sale on eBay and Racing junk and the best offer I recieved was $15,000. Parts alone ran $45,000. If I were to sell new turn-key cars the price would be around $60,00 to $75,000. In a kit/donor car concept the price would be around $35,000. I am still developing this car and would make some changes on the next car.

In reply to friedgreencorrado:from what i've been told the transmission is quite strong. I had a pretty busy year last year, 12 weekends of racing, which for a NASA event is warm up and qualifing each day and two 20 minute sprint races and one 50 minute race. I had no transmission issues untill the last event. I beleive the problem was a sticking fluid control solenoid. I will find out this week end Aat Brainerd International Raceway.

Thanx again, and good luck at Brainerd!

In reply to carguy123:RE: tuning

I am using "EFILive". It does feel much like a manual transmission. I would like to find someone interested in hacking the TCM to make it a stand alone and/or race only program. Currently, as far as I know, it needs to be conected to an ECM that was offer with the 6spd A/T. I am using 2006 Corvette ECM

In General: I am more than willing to share what I have learned in this project. Some of it has been a costly education and I may be able to save you thousands. Here are a couple of points: 1) you can not put the manual diff (3.42) onto the A/T (originally 2.56). Different output splines ing the transmissions. But gears and Diffs are available, I used DTE Powertrain (www.dynotech-eng.com). 2) The circuitry for the tap up/down shifting requires 3 resistors. I could not find the proper resistors so I have the guts of the original switch taped to the back of my steering wheel with momentary switches soldered into it. I also need to find a simple 2 contact slip ring to run the switch wiring off of the 3/4" steering shaft if anybody has an idea.

Slip ring? How many turns lock - lock? A coiled cord, attached along the steering shaft so that it's tight enough not to droop ought to do the trick. (hint: genuine Telco handset cords are multi-conductor, cheap, and incredibly durable)

Factory 5, along with others, bolts the engine directly to a manual transmission so there must be an easy way. It was my understanding that you didn't even need an adapter, but I haven't eyeballed one so I don't really know for sure.

In reply to carguy123: Factory 5 (GTM) uses a Porche transaxle. Bolting the engine to the transmission is not the problem, I imagine a bellhousing from an LS powered Camaro might work, but the transmission in the Corvette is rotated (from what I have been told, please verify) a few degrees for some reason. I have not looked into it, and I can't tell from the service manual with any certainty. It may only be a few degrees for better shifter alignment or something.

In reply to erohslc: Thanks, I did a similar installation initially. Eventualy it created a broken wire that work sometimes and not others creating frustrating shifting problem. I am still using this type of wrapping wire, but would like a permanant solution.

Steve if you will peruse this thread I think it might answer some of your questions concerning using a manual transmission as well as the automatic. It seems that in 2006 they changed the manual bolt pattern to match the auto. That might be the genesis of your thoughts on having to mount the manual tranny at an angle. Prior to 2006 maybe you did.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/cyclonetyphoon-clone-on-a-budget/22144/page1/#newposts