porsche flat six? Even a Corvair engine would work out nicely! Maybe a /4 like the Volvos had.
porsche flat six? Even a Corvair engine would work out nicely! Maybe a /4 like the Volvos had.
In reply to kb58:
I agree, it would look awesome. Would you think the best spot for the transaxle would be the rear or try to adapt a rwd transmission? Could the engine be used as part of a load bearing assembly?
Subie will work as a middie.
Tranny will stick out behind the rear axle line and therefore needs some protection built in.
Other than the flat 4-6 configuration they really don't have anything to recommend them. If you compare they really aren't any more powerful than other more readily available engines.
The kit to block off the AWD and make it a FWD (for middie applications) is expensive.
There is plenty of hood there for a regular rwd tranny if you're putting the engine out front.
My Midlana car purposely leaves out the Subi because of its form factor. As was said, the transaxle sticks out the rear quite a ways, far enough that in a mid-engine configuration in a Locost, it would stick out past the rear bodywork. Yes, the "right way" is to put the transaxle at the back, but it'll be a ton more work, and having a driveshaft spinning 6000 rpm next to my legs is kind of scary. I think I'd just push the engine forward enough to make a traditional transmission fit.
Midlana came down to choosing whether to fit only the Subi, or the 100s of other FWD drivetrains that people can fine a lot easier. Enough said. I got yelled at on the Locost forum for being too positive about mid-engine setups...
kb58 wrote: My Midlana car purposely leaves out the Subi because of its form factor. As was said, the transaxle sticks out the rear quite a ways, far enough that in a mid-engine configuration in a Locost, it would stick out past the rear bodywork. Yes, the "right way" is to put the transaxle at the back, but it'll be a ton more work, and having a driveshaft spinning 6000 rpm next to my legs is kind of scary. I think I'd just push the engine forward enough to make a traditional transmission fit. Midlana came down to choosing whether to fit only the Subi, or the 100s of other FWD drivetrains that people can fine a lot easier. Enough said. I got yelled at on the Locost forum for being too positive about mid-engine setups...
If they really think you're that crazy, they have some issues. I'm waiting for the LS4/4T65E_HD to become cheap personally, but then again, I am crazy and have no car yet.
I just found this on Ebay:
Prices are reasonable for a very complete kit and they are based about 15 miles from house. Looked on Craigslist and there was a XR4Ti for $500 within an hour's drive from my house.
Website says Miata donor and mid-engine variants on the way soon. Looks cool.
Wow, that could be good news. MK are well know and liked in the UK, a US distributors could be a good thing. Hopefully as a distributor they'll fair better than most other 'Locost' kit manufacturers that seem to come and go over here all the time. At $8995 it's significantly cheaper than a Westfield at $18,233 ($13,990 + $4,243 shipping). I'm not saying it's as complete or as 'good' as a Westfield, but I'm sure it's better than 50% as good. It also 'look's' better than most Locosts.
That sure is an attractive price, and it looks like a nice middle ground between a home-built and one of the complete kits like a Caterham or Westfield.
Here's what else you'll need to cover, to compare to a Westie. Smart has some of them available. Some of this you could build yourself to save money, such as the windscreen - it's a bit expensive from Smart. Westfield doesn't give you the option of a stripped-out kit.
Yeah, the MK does seem to fill a good niche. That's around what I paid for my Stalker kit what was it, 7 years ago? Plus MK is reputable, rather than one of those flaky suppliers that takes a few orders only to find out how hard it is to make a buck in the kit car business. This is a positive development.
It's odd that they balyhoo their upcoming middie car, yet don't show pictures though.
Keith wrote: That sure is an attractive price, and it looks like a nice middle ground between a home-built and one of the complete kits like a Caterham or Westfield. Here's what else you'll need to cover, to compare to a Westie. Smart has some of them available. Some of this you could build yourself to save money, such as the windscreen - it's a bit expensive from Smart. Westfield doesn't give you the option of a stripped-out kit.
I in no way meant to imply that the Westi isn't an excellent product or more complete in any way.
On many of the Brit Locost forums MK are considered one of the best of the 'kit car' manufactures. In many of those places Westfield and Caterham are considered 'Component cars' that sell to a different audience. Which is funny as most Caterham people still look down on the Westfield.
I think this comes from most of the Westies sold in the UK are the component kits, or at least that's the impression I get.
Does this make me crazy?
1/8th scale balsa wood locost chassis in progress (cant start 1/1 in metal for awhile, so it sounded like fun)
It sucks that the hobby/craft store is out of balsa in the size I need right now.
Right now its a book chassis with SkinnyG's 3" change. I might cut out the "R" tube and try to get some good dimensions of Miata parts (try to make a scale approximation of the engine/trans/diff) and use it to spitball the rear diff mounts. If I go that route I'll have to decide how much detail I really want to do on the parts...
Hey, that's The Cowboy on your screen!
Adrian_Thompson wrote: I in no way meant to imply that the Westi isn't an excellent product or more complete in any way.
Oh, no worries. I was simply looking for a like-for-like comparison. The Westfields and Caterhams are unusual in the comprehensiveness of their kits.
Before I got involved, I used to stack the various Seven companies into three tiers. Top was Caterham/Lotus. Second was Westfield/Donkervoort/Rotus and the other established makers. Third was the ever-shifting kit car manufacturers which usually put out a few cars and go bust. Lots of the tier 3 guys in the Locost world, unfortunately. My own car is a product of one.
Kit prices and resale value reflected the three tiers as well - it'll cost you more to buy a Caterham, but it'll never depreciate.
Now, I think there's a group between the second and third tiers. Ones with less complete kits than the tier 2 companies, but better than the usual shed-built stuff. MK would fall in here and it's probably closing in on tier 2.
Its from my drooling/inspiration folder, I put it in the background so I wouldnt have to use a separate pic to explain what it is to some of the people I know.
I am hoping to start a build this summer (after school lets out). With work and classes I might only be able to work on the car every other weekend at best, but thats better then never. In the meantime this is a non-internet/tv/videogame way to keep my sanity between homework/studying/sleeping and lets me work on fleshing out ideas in 3d. I could do it in solidworks (I am an engineering student), but its just not as satisfying and that would probably end up in me spending forever designing and not building. A locost with aussie mods is pretty proven and I might add one or 2 things of my own to it bracing wise, but I am trying to not fall down the design paralisys road.
Plus theres something to be said for flexing the chassis in your hands and feeling the difference a brace makes.
Work harder Mustang Boy. Kate needs a new daily... wait a minute - fix my Camaro!
Weird things in the forum tonight. This appeared on the first page. Still, enjoyable to read it again a year later.
probably resurrected by a canoe that was deleted...
Damnit, damnit, damnit..... Why did I even get sucked in to look at this thread.... UGH.
Must go search for some answers now....
Geez.
Between this and the F-SAE build thread, I've been thinking of an uuber light 7. Same frame- see if there's a version that's solid worked to super light.
Then the super light engine- which is where I get stuck. Outside of the Alfa, which is very light, the one I can come up with is the duratec from a Ranger/ same 2.0l from a Miata. I know that's RWD and also all aluminum, and very light.
Trans- again, I know the alfa 5 speed is very light. Dunno about the ranger or Miata.
Rear- that I would probably be simple, RX, Alfa, whichever.
With the light numbers from the SAE cars, it seems as if a very tough target would be about 1000lb.
There goes another good night's sleep. you guys suck. 
alfadriver wrote: There goes another good night's sleep. you guys suck.
yup
Yeah, I got sucked in. Guy on the interwebs claimed 950lbs with a 4age on carbs.... hard to believe. I think the black bike powered was under a grand too. (edit: Chris Fiacionne's car: didn't want to make a "guido" comment I couldn't back up).
In my mind the 1000lb goal would be the ultimate. Engine and rear choice is key I'd imagine. Wonder if legends suspension parts would be a good choice or if too light duty. They have some pretty sweet aluminum uprights.
There's no way a 4ag based locost is going to be 950lbs.My R1 powered scratch built track car was 927lbs in this pic,its much smaller than a locost and the engine and trans weighs 150lbs combined.
Keith wrote: If you want a preview of my book, hit up http://www.cheapsportscar.net. It's the story of the build. And yes, my car has IRS. A popular way to do an easy IRS is to simply bolt the entire Miata rear subframe into your car. I've got some diagrams on my site that show how it attaches.
The book is really good, by the way.
+1 I bought a copy and thought the information on header construction and steering linkages was really helpful
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