In reply to Willis :
The other important thing to learn is what does PA require for taking a Salvage Title back to a Rebuilt Title and therefore authorized to be on the road again?
In reply to Willis :
The other important thing to learn is what does PA require for taking a Salvage Title back to a Rebuilt Title and therefore authorized to be on the road again?
Sounds good John, yeah my research so far I am not even sure if you can rebuild titles in NC, but you can drive cars with salvage titles and the only inspection for stolen bits are if they are 6 yrs old or less
In the state of PA, you must:
Its home. Drives GREAT. Feels ready to drive anywhere.
I noticed before buying that there is a lot of brake dust on front wheels. I figured this to mean the front pads are very worn. The brakes apply with no shake or odd activity but on sweeping left hand turns it sounds like the pad may be making contact with the rotor. My guess at worst is sticky caliper or at best well worn pads that are moving around like maybe the clips are not holding the pad in place. Easy to investigate later.
Drives down the road like a dream. Its 80 degrees here today and I intentionally left the car idling for quite a while to build up some heat. All good. Temp needle stays right where it should. The is quite a bit of wind noise at the driver's front door but my guess is that is a symptom of Subaru's frameless doors. The light on the radio come on but no sound comes out. I'm not sure if this is operator error. I'll look later. In general, the interior does not have the wear of 238k miles. Heck, it doesn't have the wear of 138k miles.
The car is super dirt on the outside like it has spent a few months in a dry dirt lot (which it has.) I'll be hitting it with the hose today.
There is one major rust spot at the driver's side passenger door. I have taken close up photos. As a true northerner this is not bad enough to scare me.
Photo dump coming soon...
Didn't think to find out where you are located when I thought about my friend, just saw Sandusky OH which makes it at least semi-local for Dayton road tripping. His wife just got a 2016 Fiat 500X and I think he'd like to keep it at one car payment if possible.
Looks like the car was from the Cincinnati area. Is anyone really good with the Google-Fu to find some contact info on Mr. Price?
EDIT: Uhgg, the pictures came out small. Sorry, still learning Berkit. Zoom in the best you can.
Looking at the address on the title, it's a nice house. It's contract pending at 430K.
I believe Chris passed away though. Below is an obituary that fits location and timeline. I'd bet that the family donated the car. Any way to tell?
http://www.hoskinsfh.com/obituary/christopher-price
No, it wasn't donated that gets marked differently at the auction. State Farm is who I bought the car from. They bought it from Price.
Would he have a college age kid?
Edit. I read the obit. He worked at a body shop!
Ya, the obit didn't mention any heirs. Just that he died suddenly from illness.....so maybe spray it down with lysol 
I looked up the house. Its a 6 bed, 4.5 bath 5,500 sq ft house. Call me stereotypical but the house doesn't add up to the guy in the picture and the owner of a butt-load mile 15yr old car.
The Butler County auditor website tell me that this address was sold on 7-24-17 by Edward Price who built it and owned it since 2003. This is likely where 50 yr old Chris lived but he did not own it. Just one resident in the 6 bedrooms I guess.
Oil change sticker says due for change on 9/23/17. If that is 3 months then it was likely changed on 6/23/17 and Chris passed in April. Someone else was driving the car after his death.
I had the same thoughts, but didn't find who owned the house. I'd bet you're right.
One must wonder....or at least I am....if Chris passed away in the house which is why Ed is selling. ...I think I'm thinking to much about Chris and Ed. 
Man you guys are good with the google....
John do you find yourself searching on the website or finding more cars by searching the lot and happening by something? Have you found any that were not listed already as run and drive simply because the battery was dead (ive heard to bring your own jumper box?)
I keep wondering if you can find some cars that should run and drive pretty easy but arent flagged as such just be poking around
In reply to Willis :
It is funny thinking too much about this guy. Lets just say, "God Bless Chris, you did a find job of taking car of the car."
I did connect with the previous owner of the Montero and that was a pretty cool thing. I strangely enjoy sort of "forensically" looking at these cars to figure out their histories. On this Subaru I am seeing things that I like such as non-factory radiator hoses and non factory hose clamps. Fresh coolant could be a result of head gasket repair already completed.
Here's some more photos. Just a regular washing here at home and she cleaned really well. With the use of a degreaser named Mean Green and a scrub brush the rims came out excellent. Ar 238k I am amazed that none of the rims have curb rash or permanent negative markings or scrapes.
Before
After
Front Drivers side--Before
Front Drivers side--After
I think after you dealt with that rust, I'd scratch the bottom half down and 2 tone the car.
Please excuse the crude phone rendering...
Jaynen said:John do you find yourself searching on the website or finding more cars by searching the lot and happening by something? Have you found any that were not listed already as run and drive simply because the battery was dead (ive heard to bring your own jumper box?)
I keep wondering if you can find some cars that should run and drive pretty easy but arent flagged as such just be poking around
Here's my SOP. My auctions are on Tuesday with Monday Inspections. By Friday, it seems that my IAA branch has up all the cars for the upcoming week (which is about 500 cars.) I sort the list and sift through the pictures of what they have. If I am interested then I add the car to my Watchlist on the website. I'll end up with about 10 cars per week that I have on my Watchlist. I like looking at the photos on my tablet becasue I like the way they zoom in there the best.
I did once have a Saturn Ion that was a "does not start" on my list. I was attracted to the car because it appeared to be a simple front bumper skin and bumper bar along with a steering wheel airbag. This was a collision car and something like Geico was the seller. The damage of the car did not jive with why the car wouldn't start so I added it to my list to look at.
I did not realize until I got there but on the Ion, the battery is in the trunk. Under hood, near the fuse box is a jumper-point. I hooked my jumper up to that and got nothing. I did however get enough power for the electric trunk release to work. Once opened, I hooked the jumper right to the real battery and she fired right up and ran just fine. I figure the IAA worker who lists the cars also quickly tried the jumper-point and just left it at "does not start".
Ions (this one a 4dr sedan) are not worth much and not quick sellers. For me it would be a flip. I think I had a $375 bid and got beat by $25.
The moral here is do the facts shown and pictures shown add up to tell a story?
With 500 cars, I do not have the time to just try all non-starters to see just if they will start. Often a non-starter will just have enough body damage that the battery has been moved and cables ripped off. I don't have the skill to rebuild that car so I have no need to look at it based on body damage.
I bring a jumper box because many of these cars have not been started in months. Even though listed as "runs and drives" most will need a jump by now. Here we have 4 real seasons. I try to look at the background of the pictures. It is very common for me to have snow on the ground or no leaves on the trees in the pictures of cars being auctioned off in the summer.
I won't be "dealing with the rust". By Northern Ohio standards, this is normal rust and pretty light for a 238k car. The Cincinnati area sees a whole lot less rust in Southern Ohio than we do here in the North.
If I was "dealing with it" I would just hit 1 large spot and 2 other small spots with some black Por15 and then cover that again with a color match green.
Don't know if it's too late to call you John, or if it's needed at this stage. Still a player, my mom will love this car.
In reply to etifosi :
No need to call. You're still in #1 position. I'll be getting registered for a State Inspection appointment later this week. As stated earlier, that was 3 weeks out last time. I'm throwing up as much as I can here to keep you informed.
Is your mom in PA? I thought PA was strict and somewhat unrealistic on rust? Would this car pass the PA annual inspection? Here in Ohio we do not have annual inspections!
The rust around the fenders isn't a big deal but It would depend on the guy doing the inspection on whether he opened the door or not. That car would not pass as exhaust gasses could get into the car. From PennDot:
If substantial rust is observed externally on a vehicle during a safety inspection, it should serve as an indicator for the inspector to look more closely at other areas of the vehicle (frame, flooring, etc.) as these areas may be compromised. The following would be cause for rejection under the passenger car and light truck inspection procedure: rust that permits exhaust gases to enter the passenger or cargo compartment; protruding metal, loose or dislocated parts protruding from the surface so as to create a hazard; bumpers that are rusted so they are not firmly attached or have broken or torn portions protruding so as to create a hazard; and frames that are not in solid condition.
To get something like that through inspection, standard cheap procedure in PA: Wire wheel the rust, fill it with Great Stuff Big Gap filler, Shave down the excess and fiberglass, top coat with rattle can.
In my experience most inspectors would never see that. Willis' suggestion would be my approach.
From PennDot....bumpers that are rusted so they are not firmly attached or have broken or torn portions protruding so as to create a hazard.
Would PennDot be okay with the rear bumper? The forward part of the bumper is still held in place but held there in the rusty area below the gas cap. The bumper skin does not rattle, shake or vibrate at all. The metal frame below it has bent down and the bumper skin has bent down with it. Lifting on the bumper skin does not independently move the bumper skin. All is firm.
One suggestion is with the use of a floor jack, try lifting the car from the rearmost portion and see if that metal bumper support will bend back even a little and therefore close the gap somewhat. But, as it is currently, the bumper gives me no reason to still not want to drive the car cross country.
I don't know. 50/50 would be my bet in its current state. If it were to come into PA, I would do exactly what you described to tighten the gap as much as possible before the inspection.
Here's the news of the day... The car now is listed as liability only on my insurance and it is wearing an Ohio Temp Tag good until Nov 11th ($18.50). I picked up the baby from Toddler School with it today. Safe enough to drive the family around in.
Radio does not make sounds but all the lights come on. It is the factory unit (with likely 238k miles of play on it) Single DIN unit with ample room for a double DIN. A CD will go in but no sound happens and within a short period the unit kicks the CD back out. Aftermarket radios are cheap. Still need to look at the brakes. No issue when going straight but some rubbing and associated noises when the wheel is turned considerably. Other than that, comfy cruiser.
Today's update...Just moments ago I made the reservation of the State Inspection. Friday the 13th of Oct at high Noon. Two weeks from today.
Drove it some more today, to Toddler School again. Nothing new. No real time to look at the brakes until possible Sunday but probably not then either. Around Noon tomorrow, I am setting sail for South Bass Island. Will likely (surely) drink too much Saturday while watching the Ohio State Football game in Frosty Bar at Put-in-Bay. After a night of sleeping on a sailboat I will likely (surely) drink too much Sunday on the return sail home.
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