Rear wing removal-plugging the holes

I know this has been brought up here in the past, but I can't find the original thread. I'm looking at a removing the rear wing on a car and I need to plug the hones in the trunk, how do I do this?

how big are the holes? How much of a re-paint are you wanting to do?

If they're tiny holes and you're willing to repaint, I'd weld them closed. Strip the paint on both sides. Use a copper backing plate as a heat sink and to stop burn through. grind it smooth when done. paint to hide the work.

Or buy a new trunk lid

Rubber plugs are an option, just like on an ex-cop car when they take the lights off.

depends on the car. What car and what kind of wing are you taking off?

personally, I hate wings on cars. The only exception is the original E30 M3 and the saab 900 turbo. I even prefer my 911s wingless... perferably with the turbo look fenders

Depends how pretty the car needs to be.

I love wings. They make time go away.

Sorry to play this close to the chest, I'm keeping it quiet until I bring it home.

Basic universal wing, a little too wide for the car. Looks like 4, approximate 1/4" holes, 2 on each side. Paint is a "custom" job that I plan to cover with plastidip. No access to, or experience with, welding gear beyond a benz-o-matic propane torch. The car is an... uncommon... sub model, a new trunk lid is a final option.

What I recall from the old thread was a bolt in gromet.

They make little metal snap-in plugs that will fill the holes.

I think Auveco or Geno will have them in their catalog, just check your local auto parts store.

Shawn

Keith Tanner wrote: Or buy a new trunk lid Rubber plugs are an option, just like on an ex-cop car when they take the lights off.

Basically what I was thinking, but usually those at are from the antennae. The lights clip on and power comes from under the hood and up the windshield, but I wouldn't put it past many to try new and unusual things such as putting an LSx under the hood of a Miata.

The only way you'll make it look smooth again is by wild and paint, or Bondo and paint.

I used some black plastic plugs and some Shoe-Goo to seal the holes. I wanted the options of putting the wing back, so I didn't do anything permanent.

You could use solder and sand, since you have a propane torch.

Before I had my welding torch, have cut small squares of fiberglass stuck under the hole (on the inside of the car), with some tape on the outside of the car so the FG dries close to flush but resin doesn't gush over. Then a little bondo to smooth it out, and repaint. With bondo alone it will crack and fall out.

small vinyl dots

Also, if this was a craigslist ad, there is no way I'd click it...

Plasti-dip? So no need to worry about aesthetic perfection and holes filled without a trace...

If the local auto parts store doesn't have rubber plugs that fit, mcmaster-carr certainly will.

I'm liking the small vinyl dots suggestion. I was wondering about this as well. You might want to back them up with something stronger on the underside, as vinyl is stretchy. They should disappear nicely under the tool paint.

I painted some thumb tacks with body colour paint. Glued them in with some kind of auto trim goop. They've been there for about 6 years.

Vinyl stickers would work too.

Better than vinyl dots - get some of the aluminum tape they use to seal HVAC. Cut an even-shaped piece and cover each hole on the outside, then do the same on the inside. Once you plasti-dip it, you'll never know it was there and it's hella strong. If you're worried, get the heavy duty version.

I may or may not have fixed rust holes that way before selling a car.

There's a foil version of that tape (the kind with the backing paper) and a shiny plastic type. The latter is a whole lot stronger. It's also for ducting.

I've used the foil stuff to plug holes in bodywork as well when I think of it.

Really? I've never seen the plastic. I'll have to keep an eye out. The maintenance guys here at our plant have some that's damn near as thick as a soda can with adhesive that will glue owl E36 M3 to ice cubes. It's awesome.

I'll see if I can post the printing that's on the plastic stuff when I get home tonight. It's a lot more tear-resistant. Thinner, too.

I've used a few different grades of the foil, there certainly is a difference. I need the stuff your maintenance guys have.

jere wrote: You could use solder and sand, since you have a propane torch. Before I had my welding torch, have cut small squares of fiberglass stuck under the hole (on the inside of the car), with some tape on the outside of the car so the FG dries close to flush but resin doesn't gush over. Then a little bondo to smooth it out, and repaint. With bondo alone it will crack and fall out.

I just used that method to fill some screw holes in some scrap (former A/C air handler) that I'm now using as a quarter panel

This is relevant to my interests. I'm trying to imagine the discussion at Toyota that led the designers to believe that any fewer than 18 fasteners drilled through the decklid and quarters would result in the MR2 wing flying off and killing people.

I'm not exaggerating. 18.

GAHH PUT THE WING BACK ON!!! KILL IT WITH FIRE!

That being said, I have sold some small vinyl dots to people to cover holes in body work and they have been happy with the outcome. On the right colored car they are damn near invisible and last forever.

In reply to 93gsxturbo:

I like Will's car without the wing. Jez sayin'.

I prefer the MR2 without the wing.. very ferrariesque