1 2
justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/11/17 9:36 p.m.

So, some of you might know me as the most indecisive GRM-er of all time, given that I've posted so many threads about cars I want to build. Well, it may please you fine folk to know I've chosen a car, and it was in my backyard the whole time.

About 3 or 4 years ago, my grandfather saw an ad in the local classifieds for a 65 dart that "ran" with a "rebuilt" slant 6. It's been sitting in a field since because none of us could figure out what the hell to do with it. The car was and is a wreck on the scale of the titanic but it's decently straight, though it will need 3k worth of metal put in it before the build begins. Quarters, door skins, fenders, floor, trunk pan, all of it. Regardless, I've seen that there aren't a lot of guys that build serious competitive Mopars, the autocross here is ruled by GM and I think I can make a go of it. So, this thread was created to chronicle my progress.

I have a few ideas on how to proceed. The front end will get tubular control arms and new 70s A body spindles for the 12 and 1/2 inch brakes I'm going to hang on it. I'm staying with the torsion bar suspension as it provides superior roll control to coilovers and sway bars, though the car will get a massive sway bar on the front.

The rear is where I'm getting hung up, I can go with replacement composite leaves with a watt's link or I can narrow the track width of QA1's 6 link system, which is a coilover based suspension. The reason for the narrowing is that early A body Mopars are 2 inches narrower than the 66 and up A bodies, which are the A bodies intended for the setup. I would have better ride but I doubt better handling.

The car will get fender flares and likely 17x11 in back and 17x10 in front. It will be small block Mopar powered, obviously.

Pictures forthcoming, but do any of you guys have suggestions for what to do with the rear suspension? I'd be interested to hear someone's opinion. If anyone has a late 60s or early 70s non land barge Mopar I would prefer that to this but as of now it's what I've got so make the best of it.

GTXVette
GTXVette HalfDork
5/11/17 9:47 p.m.

Hold Tight there LOTS of Mopar folks here and what you need to do is get the body right the chassie changes will be forth coming and it's Gonna handle as good as anything out there but start on the body. so don't buy Stuff for the suspension yet.

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/11/17 10:21 p.m.

In reply to GTXVette:

That's the plan. I have to take some time this weekend to pull it out of the field with the tractor and see what I have to work with. If it's too far gone I may have to start from scratch. My other options are a 69 Valiant 4 door or a 62 Dart, and I really don't want to start with a 4 door or a Plymouth at all really. The Dart is an early B body and is way too hard to get parts for. I'm a Dodge man, but we're splitting hairs at this point. However, should the dart be too far gone I will see what else I can do with these others, I don't anticipate my plan changing much. Power would have to adjust for the B body Dart, though I have a 360 and a 400 to work with.

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/11/17 10:34 p.m.

As it turns out LOTS of people make parts for early B's. It appears I misspoke.

GTXVette
GTXVette HalfDork
5/12/17 6:42 a.m.

Well I work for a Chrysler Restorer he hates anything that isn't 68-72 I LOVE 62 Dart's and 66's But in General Don't like Dodges or Plymouth's. I don't do restorations I Maintain all his cars which Are Ford's Chevy's Chrysler's even a Porsche.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 UltimaDork
5/12/17 7:05 a.m.

As a mopar guy who autocross a duster, i approve of any of these.

Im partial to the a body, but ive had mine for 23 years.

When you get moving on whichever one is the most solid, im here to help.

Id reccomend joining mopax as well, but here has 98% of the information as over there, with a lot more different ways to get there.

Im down in albemarle NC if you want a hand at some point.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
5/12/17 7:18 a.m.

If going to go around corners, why not do a three link?

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/12/17 11:11 a.m.

In reply to NOHOME:

If I was going to complicate the suspension, for the amount of effort I would put a 4 link in it, since I can bolt one in. Leaf springs work fine in racing, it's just ride quality that suffers. Not like I'd be road tripping this one anyway.

A body is definitely the way to go, it also helps early As are lighter than the later ones.

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/12/17 11:30 a.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13:

I'd like to get a Duster, however ours has been claimed by my brother and I'm not allowed to go hacking into it for a 4 speed and suspension, so the early A is what I have to work with unless I get over my aversion to 4 doors(I won't) or a nice Duster/Dart/Dart Sport plops into my lap, like I hope will happen.

GTXVette
GTXVette HalfDork
5/12/17 12:17 p.m.
NOHOME wrote: If going to go around corners, why not do a three link?

Hello, but did you say "you want to corner?" If you did 4 link Isn't what you want AND a top Bar on the rear housing and Sliders out Back Is a 3 link Add A Panhard bar or watts to it and you will have All you need.use the chrysler Single leaf spring Avail at Speedway and a thousand other stores.

stuart in mn
stuart in mn UltimaDork
5/12/17 1:26 p.m.

I kind of like the '62 Dart, they were so weird they're cool. They all seem to get built into drag racers, it would be fun to see one built for taking corners instead.

coexist
coexist New Reader
5/12/17 2:41 p.m.

This is near me (PNW island) and probably available for free. Previous owners dead, bad floors, broken windshield and so on. All the hard work is done...

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/12/17 9:40 p.m.

In reply to coexist:

That would be perfect. If you weren't on the opposite coast lol.

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/12/17 9:45 p.m.

In reply to stuart in mn:

Not that I disagree

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/14/17 3:12 p.m.

The 65 is apparently worse than anticipated. It essentially amounts to a bondo bomb. I was peeling filler off it with my flip flop. I have done a brief walkaround of the car, I'll link it to youtube.

I may need to reconsider the car for this build, and consider my other two options.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
5/14/17 6:37 p.m.

I see no reason to spend time and $$$ on that car if it is a rust-bucket. Unless of course that is your thing, then by all means lead the way.

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
5/17/17 12:23 p.m.

I believe, short of getting another car, that my 69 4 door Valiant is now the best car for the build. Anyway to update the title?

GTXVette
GTXVette HalfDork
5/17/17 3:13 p.m.

Go for it, great for Carribian taxi paint job! Really It Would be Cool. Roll on some colors for original look, and dog dish hub caps.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 UltimaDork
5/17/17 3:58 p.m.

No way to update that i know of.

And i really like 4 doors now that im older....

Crackers
Crackers HalfDork
5/17/17 4:12 p.m.

Contact a Moderator to get the thread title changed.

A 69 Valiant would be awesome. I've never done major surgery on a Mopar before, but I'd consider one of these.

4 doors seem to be handy for accessing spare wheels in the back seat. LOL

mazdeuce
mazdeuce MegaDork
5/17/17 6:29 p.m.

My vote is for the 62. There is no angle on that car that isn't interesting. I always wanted one but could never find one that was worth saving during my misspent youth.

759NRNG
759NRNG Reader
5/18/17 1:25 p.m.

justthatguy, check this out http://www.a2zracer.com/page9.html great story and hope it provides some inspiration

Nessumsar
Nessumsar New Reader
5/18/17 2:52 p.m.
justthatguy wrote: I believe, short of getting another car, that my 69 4 door Valiant is now the best car for the build. Anyway to update the title?

Let me know if you have your eyes on any Hotchkis products, I work there; for either the '65 or '69.

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
6/14/17 12:38 a.m.

Actually guys, got under it. Aside from the sheet-of-bondo quarters the frame rails and pickup points are solid. Not rust free, but nothing that affects the structural integrity of the car. It needs rear wheel arches, quarter patches, and floor pans, but that looks to be the extent of the major damage. The fenders and doors aren't great but the fenders are fixable and the doors replaceable. I will get it blasted and see if I lose anything that's not supposed to come off.

Plan is Firm Feel front suspension components, composite leaves and a watts link in back. And, an all forged parts bin 318 hooked to a Toyota R154 5 speed. Reason for 318 is free, of course. 273 crank with late 318 rods and KB167s in it, zero deck, knife edged crank, some Magnum heads ported to an inch of their lives, valvetrain is up in the air but a Comp extreme 282 looks good with some heavier springs, and a single plane that helps me get power out of it at 6500 rpm. Putting the cart before the horse here, but this is the plan thus far.

It's been temporarily put on hold as my friend moves his WRX into my shop for an engine swap, but all looks good from here.

Looks like the 65 is a go after all.

justthatguy
justthatguy New Reader
6/14/17 12:46 a.m.
mazdeuce wrote: My vote is for the 62. There is no angle on that car that isn't interesting. I always wanted one but could never find one that was worth saving during my misspent youth.

It's a slant 6 3 on the tree runner that is honestly not that bad. If I was any more of a deranged man I would daily drive it if the brakes didn't leak like Washington insiders.

1 2

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
z4zpkFCWDyeAnhc9k3HVfcJ9gnjPEm4zJuhQnuLy1t23i5OSNqirwC2sEI2GbxPH