I have a friend that does mylar graphics, he did my sailplanes. Need a little something on the back wall?
I have a friend that does mylar graphics, he did my sailplanes. Need a little something on the back wall?
Can we have stacks? please....and naughtily clad mudflaps....oops never mind.
Long-time lurker of the Deuce threads. Had to chime in on 2 fronts. Most importantly, thinking of all of you that are in the midst of this flooding. I'm in VT and we're coming up on the 6th anniversary of flooding from Hurricane Irene. It was a rough go of it for a while, but it brought out the best in people during the worst of times. Wishing you all safe passage through the storm, and a full recovery.
Secondarily, The Story of Ferdinand was always my favorite book to read to my daughters. Amazing book on many levels, and a fitting name for this truck. Keep up the good work, and amazing writing.
also if computerducekid (love that nick for him) would like an OEM builders copy of Windows 7 Pro, let me know. It is brand new, never been used sealed in the OEM box. (I will even include a hard drive to make it legit).
In reply to csmith1510:
Thanks to you I have a kid dancing around my living room like an idiot. 
I sent you a PM. If it doesn't show up in your regular email or spam, let me know and I'll figure out how to get ahold of you. The generosity of this forum never ceases to amaze me.
In reply to 759NRNG:
I think the image of Ferdinand should be on the mudflaps.
In reply to garethashenden:
I've been looking at this picture thinking the same thing. Pistons are sitting on the floor and I'm planning custom mudflaps. Typical.
One of the hardest parts of a tropical storm (assuming nothing bad happens) is sitting still. You need to not drive around and look at stuff. Not make a mess that will need to be cleaned up in the dark with no running water. Simply not make things harder than they would be if you just sat still. Usually this is a two day event of nothing. Sometimes three. Harvey has been a weird storm and it's Tuesday now, so I'm on day five of nothing, and high water has us functionally cut off from the areas asking for volunteers. That's a lot of nothing.
Mrs. Deuce finally kicked me out of the house. She said the worst is past (which I hope it is) and I need to go do anything that isn't nothing. It turns out I have this can of foaming engine degreaser that is so old the can is rusty, and the intake manifold fits in the shop sink, sweet!
Except that turned out to be dumb. The intake was only nominally cleaner and the bathroom was a huge mess. I moved outside with a more runoff friendly cleaner. Things are cleaner, but not clean, I'll get back to that.
I pulled the pulley from the water pump. I decided that I want to replace all of the Phillips and flat head screws with Allen head screws so I can take this back apart without a hammer next time. All of the screws required a hammer. One required a dremel too.
Cleaned the distributor for a bit. Scrubbed one valve cover. Poked the transmission. Drank some coffee. Satisfied Mrs. Deuce's requirements for going away for a while.
So what is everyone using, both from a technique and a chemical standpoint, to get 50 year old grease and oil out of bumpy porous metal so that paint will stick to it. Or more accurately, how do I prep all this engine stuff for paint?
mazdeuce wrote: I pulled the pulley from the water pump. I decided that I want to replace all of the Phillips and flat head screws with Allen head screws so I can take this back apart without a hammer next time. All of the screws required a hammer. One required a dremel too.
Love it. N00b question: why would Allen heads help?
In reply to rich_27:
A Phillips screw is torque limited. Part of it's design is actually to start to cam out as torque rises which keeps the torque down and the head from popping off. This is why the hammer impact works so well, because your smashing it into the hole at the same time you're twisting. It was mostly used because it's ubiquitous and a good fastener for when you can't fit a wrench on the outside or the head needs to be flush or some other assembly reason. The square drive Roberts screw predates Phillips but that dude is Canadian and loves his patent enforcement so adoption was lower in the US historically. Allen holds more torque that Phillips but is worse at self cleaning and tends to corrode the hole shut faster. Allen wrenches are also less universal (historically) and you need a handful of them instead of just three common Phillips sizes. Last is torx, which self cleans even worse but holds tools and torque the best by far. I'm not even sure if you can get SAE thread Torx bolts.
mazdeuce wrote: In reply to rich_27: A Phillips screw is torque limited. Part of it's design is actually to start to cam out as torque rises which keeps the torque down and the head from popping off. This is why the hammer impact works so well, because your smashing it into the hole at the same time you're twisting. It was mostly used because it's ubiquitous and a good fastener for when you can't fit a wrench on the outside or the head needs to be flush or some other assembly reason. The square drive Roberts screw predates Phillips but that dude is Canadian and loves his patent enforcement so adoption was lower in the US historically. Allen holds more torque that Phillips but is worse at self cleaning and tends to corrode the hole shut faster. Allen wrenches are also less universal (historically) and you need a handful of them instead of just three common Phillips sizes. Last is torx, which self cleans even worse but holds tools and torque the best by far. I'm not even sure if you can get SAE thread Torx bolts.
Mr. Deuce, I knew a small amount of this and I consider myself to be on the odd end of the nerdy automotive spectrum. Curious if you already had this info stored in your head or if this knowledge came in part because of your well documented experience with broken fasteners.
I had to check to remember the proper name for square drive, I knew the dude was Canadian but couldn't remember Roberts without Google. The rest is the information I carry around in my head instead of important things like my kid's birthdays. GRM has also had some great articles on fasteners lately. Lots of info about bolt grade and different types of locking fasteners. Good stuff.
I've had some good success with a cheap media blaster I got from HF that I built a wood cabinet for to recover some of the media. Shelf in center for the tank or engine to sit on and most everything stays inside. Definitely an outside project though. Do I remember before you blasting on the side of the Grosh?
I use castrol superclean and a wire brush for almost everything. No groundwater issues, gets porus stuff, cheap, and good. 1 inch steel wire brush and hot water work best.
Do not get it on your hootus. Or in your eyes. It does really bad things requiring a trip to the emergency room.
Robertson drive was invented in Milton Ontario...just down the road. I hate the damn things cause they are just ugly. Don't use them in your car!
mazdeuce wrote: So what is everyone using, both from a technique and a chemical standpoint, to get 50 year old grease and oil out of bumpy porous metal so that paint will stick to it. Or more accurately, how do I prep all this engine stuff for paint?
foaming oven cleaner, usually cleans stuff like that for me. been years ago though, outside only project.
Another thing that helps is put it in an oven and warm it up a couple of hundred degrees and the pores will open up and release some of the cooked in goo.
Remove all the soft parts and burn it in the brush pile. Pile cooking charcoal all over it under it and burn it that way as well. Just think of the lump of cast you have there is a funny shaped cooking skillet made of cast iron.
Scott
I was scrubbing that big piece of cast iron today, nooks and crannies, and I thought about when it was made. The SV family of engines were produced from 1959 to 1985. In 1959 the design for the intake would have been drawn by hand, given to a pattern maker, and he would have carved it out of wood. From there they had a way to reproduce multiple molds from the master so they could pack sand around them and cast them somewhere in the Midwest. But the first version of this intake was hardwood, carved by hand, to a set of blueprints also drawn by hand, on paper. I wonder who those guys were?
mazdeuce wrote: One of the hardest parts of a tropical storm (assuming nothing bad happens) is sitting still. You need to not drive around and look at stuff. Not make a mess that will need to be cleaned up in the dark with no running water. Simply not make things harder than they would be if you just sat still. Usually this is a two day event of nothing. Sometimes three. Harvey has been a weird storm and it's Tuesday now, so I'm on day five of nothing, and high water has us functionally cut off from the areas asking for volunteers. That's a lot of nothing. Mrs. Deuce finally kicked me out of the house. She said the worst is past (which I hope it is) and I need to go do anything that isn't nothing. It turns out I have this can of foaming engine degreaser that is so old the can is rusty, and the intake manifold fits in the shop sink, sweet!Except that turned out to be dumb. The intake was only nominally cleaner and the bathroom was a huge mess. I moved outside with a more runoff friendly cleaner. Things are cleaner, but not clean, I'll get back to that.
I pulled the pulley from the water pump. I decided that I want to replace all of the Phillips and flat head screws with Allen head screws so I can take this back apart without a hammer next time. All of the screws required a hammer. One required a dremel too.
Cleaned the distributor for a bit. Scrubbed one valve cover. Poked the transmission. Drank some coffee. Satisfied Mrs. Deuce's requirements for going away for a while. So what is everyone using, both from a technique and a chemical standpoint, to get 50 year old grease and oil out of bumpy porous metal so that paint will stick to it. Or more accurately, how do I prep all this engine stuff for paint?
parts washer tank with mineral spirits and a wire brush, then clean outside the tank with fresh mineral spirits. Wipe the part down - maybe another going over with a clean wire brush. Let it dry and prime/paint.
mazdeuce wrote: I was scrubbing that big piece of cast iron today, nooks and crannies, and I thought about when it was made. The SV family of engines were produced from 1959 to 1985. In 1959 the design for the intake would have been drawn by hand, given to a pattern maker, and he would have carved it out of wood. From there they had a way to reproduce multiple molds from the master so they could pack sand around them and cast them somewhere in the Midwest. But the first version of this intake was hardwood, carved by hand, to a set of blueprints also drawn by hand, on paper. I wonder who those guys were?
You are absolutely correct about this. I worked in a pattern shop from 1988 till 2015. Those guys back when I started were amazing. The patterns were made by hand from mahogany. The patternmakers would break down the design into smaller pcs that could be machined on a manual Bridgeport, shaped on a sander, turned on the lathe or whatever combination of techniques was required.
They would have to factor in the shrink rate of the material, the draft needed for the pattern to release from the mold, machine finish needed and any other variable that would affect the casting.
And we're not talking simple little parts, we're talking parts for big, yellow bulldozers, torque converter stators and rotors, and my all time favorite project, the GM Motorsports pro stock and the Nascar block patterns. At one time, the same foundry that poured big yellow bulldozer engine blocks poured the GM Motorsports blocks.
Today, the majority of the work is designed in solid modeling and machined on a CNC router. Our biggest was 6' X 12' X 2'.
Not saying the guys doing the design and modeling aren't still amazing craftsmen, but certainly a different skillset.
I've read some interesting articles recently about NASA getting back into the big rocket game and the experience modern engineers got taking apart the old big rocket motors. The stuff that took us to the moon was fantastic creations of welded metal calibrated with files and grinders, works of craftsman art.
SAE torx head bolts are available. Although they're fairly expensive comparatively.
I like burning gunk off with a plumbing torch. Then compressed air to blow stuff off. Doesn't work well if there is a large clay content though.
Otherwise I still like using carb cleaner.
SAE-thread Torx bolts, you ask? Why, yes Mr. Deuce, the Internet has everything:
By the looks of the water pump pulley after-math, you don't need much length, so you shouldn't have any issues staying below their 1.5"-longest-length.
If you want something with a different head or material, let me know & I'll see what I can do. Happen to know a guy...
In reply to mazdeuce: I can also help provide a copy of Windows 10. There are some better game optimizations in Windows 10 lately. Fully legit. Please PM me and I am happy to get some software for computerducekid.
In reply to corybrown50:
Blasting is an idea I hadn't considered. I suppose it's inevitable that I'll try it on something someday, I have the compressor.
I should probably set up a parts washer too. I was thinking I could just use a plastic bin with a couple of gallons of mineral spirits and a screen in the bottom. Is the pump/circulator function that big of a help? Washing my dog with a shower head is a lot more effective than pouring cups of water over her but I'm not sure if that translates to car parts.
Other than your known history with fire, this looks like a lot of fun.
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