I have both. I've made the thicker exhaust manifold work with the thinner intake manifold by taking some thick washers and grinding down part of them to interface between the different thicknesses of manifolds. Or simply use an angle grinder to plane down the exhaust manifold, as you say.
So, nharperc. I'm in GSO, if you want the carbs; we can meet someplace in the middle to get them to you. Let me know and we go forward on scheduling from there.
I've also got a few M40 transmissions in my garage, but that's because my M41 isn't working the best right now.
Wes
In reply to sporkfan:
Sounds like a fellow Volvo hoarder. 
I sent you a message about the SU cores.
sporkfan wrote: So, nharperc. I'm in GSO, if you want the carbs; we can meet someplace in the middle to get them to you. Let me know and we go forward on scheduling from there. I've also got a few M40 transmissions in my garage, but that's because my M41 isn't working the best right now. Wes
122s parts aren't plentiful on the ground. Most of them are off of a parts car that I've been breaking down for a few weeks.
sporkfan wrote: 122s parts aren't plentiful on the ground. Most of them are off of a parts car that I've been breaking down for a few weeks.
I hear you. Most of my "stock" is from a dozen or so 122s I've parted out over the years. I still have a half-dozen parts cars, but it seemed like I used to be able to find a sub-$500 derelict 122 every few months or so. The parts cars are drying up, I think.
volvoclearinghouse wrote:sporkfan wrote: 122s parts aren't plentiful on the ground. Most of them are off of a parts car that I've been breaking down for a few weeks.I hear you. Most of my "stock" is from a dozen or so 122s I've parted out over the years. I still have a half-dozen parts cars, but it seemed like I used to be able to find a sub-$500 derelict 122 every few months or so. The parts cars are drying up, I think.
Dozen or so parts cars? Gee wonder where they all went! 
maschinenbau wrote:volvoclearinghouse wrote:Dozen or so parts cars? Gee wonder where they all went!sporkfan wrote: 122s parts aren't plentiful on the ground. Most of them are off of a parts car that I've been breaking down for a few weeks.I hear you. Most of my "stock" is from a dozen or so 122s I've parted out over the years. I still have a half-dozen parts cars, but it seemed like I used to be able to find a sub-$500 derelict 122 every few months or so. The parts cars are drying up, I think.
Volvo built 667,791 Amazons. I don't think my parting out 12 had anything to do with the disappearance of all of the parts cars.
Updates from this weekend: Timing gears have finally been installed! Heat to 200°F, press on, measure to spec. Once that was done I could finish sealing up the bottom end. I'm not a fan of felt seals, thankfully both crank seals had already been converted to neoprene. I put new seals in and installed the rear cover, the timing cover, and oil pan.
Timing Cover
Oil Pan
Tonight I'll try to find time to install the water pump and fuel pump before prepping for the final head install. The crank pulley is taking an extended soak in parts cleaner. Once that's clean the front will look complete.
Very nice. I'm jealous of the Neoprene crank seal. Those have gotten really expensive since IPD stopped making them.
If you want to install a header with that intake manifold, rather than use thick washer on the shared studs. You can use thick wall tubing and longer studs. Trim the tubing so it contacts both the head and the manifold even, then use a washer and nut on top of the tubing. Aircraft spruce has tubing and lot of sizes. I did this on my fiat X1/9, partly to have better access to the nut, 3/4 inch long tube made the nut easier to access.
sporkfan wrote: Very nice. I'm jealous of the Neoprene crank seal. Those have gotten really expensive since IPD stopped making them.
Son of a.... they have, haven't they? I'm disappointed, IPD has really cut back on what they offer for the 122 lately.
Wasn't the timing cover/ rear engine cover mod simply re-machining the covers to accept the neoprene seals? Seems a machine shop should be able to handle that. What is the neoprene seal P/N?
That's crazy. I happen to have both seals in my spare parts inventory. I think both of my seals were in Victor Reinz boxes (which I still have). I'll post the parts numbers tonight.
volvoclearinghouse wrote:sporkfan wrote: Very nice. I'm jealous of the Neoprene crank seal. Those have gotten really expensive since IPD stopped making them.Son of a.... they have, haven't they? I'm disappointed, IPD has really cut back on what they offer for the 122 lately. Wasn't the timing cover/ rear engine cover mod simply re-machining the covers to accept the neoprene seals? Seems a machine shop should be able to handle that. What is the neoprene seal P/N?
Here are the part numbers from my boxes.
Rear seal
Font seal
You can get just about any size of design oil seal if you have some accurate calipers and this catalog: http://www.victorreinz.com/img_cpm/DANA-Reinz/Downloads/Kataloge/VR_oil_seals.pdf
Also, more progress tonight:
Cool, thanks for the info.
In related news, I picked up "the last of the B20's" this past weekend. A guy near me was parting out a 245 wagon. In 1975 they put B20's in these- the last year of these engines. It's low compression, full of smog equipment, etc, but allegedly only has 60,000 miles on it and ran. Came with an M40 and a short-shifter arrangement, and the Bosch electronic ignition setup.
July and August were too damn hot for me to be wrenching, but the weather this weekend is just my speed.
Weekend updates:
Here's my punch list so you can see what remains before starting the engine: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-DrNwU2GVU1RjQ3VgEM8WG707tEkAk9IEuRN8vCR3r4/edit?usp=sharing
It's finally back in the car! I was able to leave the header and transmission on, though I had to take the shifter off to clear the firewall.
In reply to nharperc :
That engine is a thing of beauty. I love the dimensions of pushrod I4s. The color is great. I even like the shape of the timing cover. The unpainted valve cover... I don't know why, but I think its just a very pretty engine.
72° and sunny…yes please! Another beautiful weekend gave me an opportunity to get a lot crossed off my checklist.
The transmission and driveshaft are aligned and ready for new bolts. I even remembered to install the speedometer cable and adjust the clutch.
Radiator is installed, along with the lower hose and thermostat. I need to get a new upper and heater core hose before I can pressure test.
One of the original transmission crossmember bolts was missing. I chased the threads on everything then installed new hardware.
There's a lot of rewiring ahead, but a few more days of early fall weather and this thing could be ready to start.
It took me a while to notice, but when I got the head back from the machine shop it was missing the coolant block-off plate at the front of the cylinder head. The part is available from Skandix, but shipping makes ordering prohibitive. Instead, I bought some steel flat bar from the local home improvement store and worked it into the shape of the gasket using the limited metalworking tools I have (hand saw, bench grinder, files). A quick coat of paint to match the block and the cooling system is DTF (down to frost?).
Despite the long delay in updates, progress has been made. It took me a few passes at the ignition and fuel systems to work out the kinks, but the new B20B is finally running!
Initially, the carburetor float required meticulous bench calibration to ensure fuel was making it to the jets. With that solved, it was quickly apparent the 48-year-old coil simply wasn't packing the punch it used to. With a new blue Bosch coil from Amazon and an adjustment to the points gap, the B20B woke right up!
It makes a healthy 60psi of oil pressure, but won't see a timing light and a full warmup until I put some exhaust on the open header.
You've got a week to have it ready to drive to the RX awards party. Hop to it!
My friend Doug came over earlier this month to weld up a shorty exhaust so I could run the engine without pissing off all my neighbors.
It consists of a short flex-pipe followed by a 2" Thrush Turbo. I'll hook an elbow to it so it exits the passenger side.
The engine will run, but not consistently. It spit a lot and the plugs were constantly fouled, so I had to get serious about the fuel system. I bought a Holley 12-804 fuel pressure regulator, which is adjustable from 1-4 psi, and a Mr. Gasket low pressure fuel gauge. A few NPT fittings later and I had a way to monitor and adjust the fuel pressure.
The current carburetor setup is a Weber 32/36 progressive which requires a little setup. I bought the rebuild kit and solicited advice from a friend. Two very important points about dialing this carb in: (1) they seem to work best at 3.5 psi of fuel pressure (2) you have to get the float height exactly right, down to the millimeter. Another hour tweaking and double checking the carb and I had everything in spec.
I mounted the fuel pressure regulator on the passenger side of the engine bay because the drivers side was a bit crowded.
With the fuel system worked out, I was able to start it and let the fresh engine fully warm up. I even ran through the gears to check for driveline noise and vibration.
After cycling through the engine a few times I felt confident enough to attempt the first test drive since 2005.
It may not be a perfectly tuned racing machine yet, but it starts, drives, stops, and puts a smile on my face.
In reply to sporkfan :
Do you still have some of those M40's? I might need one.
I have several. Could box one up and ship it to you.
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