Sadly no. I decided that if I am going to build something like this that I want it to be reasonable to drive on the street. I have no tracks around here or even close auto-xs so a street car makes the most sense.
Also, I may be going a little nuts on the suspension and the bigger motor will fit well with the new direction of the car.
Ok, New plan reveal time!!
Psteav collected a miata that I am planning on buying the suspension bits off of. These will then be placed under the Startlet to produce something that all of use have wanted since the dawn of time... A 4 seater, Hard Top, Hatch back Miata!!! The track width is less than an inch different between the cars. The wheel base is a little longer on the starlet but I wasn't planning on using the backbone anyway. Not sure if I will be keeping the stock Miata subframe in the rear or fabbing one up. The goal is to not alter the floor pan too much so i can reinstall the rear seat. The front track width is identical and will be fitted in complete. This is a big project but even if I blow my budget I will be building a killer car and something I will be excited to drive.
Powerplant: Partially because I have one laying about and partially because it is awesome. I will be using a 3.0L SHO motor that I picked up a few years back for $150 dollars. I am missing a few parts that I will hopefully scrounge for cheap (flywheel, starter, injectors, harness). I also grabbed a Mazda B3000 trans last night for $150 dollars. Assuming I find a friendly part out, I will hopefully be in my engine trans for less than $400.
8K RPM here I come!
RossD
UberDork
10/24/12 11:40 a.m.
Starlet=
Miata Suspension=
SHO Engine=
Starlet + Miata Suspension + SHO Engine =
Oh, this sounds simply amazing. Make two and I'll buy the spare from you...
Find another starlet and we can build it together!
Ian F
PowerDork
10/24/12 3:12 p.m.
singleslammer wrote:
In reply to psteav:
Yeah I had a 12a powered 84 and loved the smooth power but found it obnoxious.
A friend of mine runs a 1G RX7 hill climb car. The car is ungodly loud and obnoxious. How loud? It's so loud they were asked not to bring the car again to my auto-x region - where we have a few F500 and a number of F125 kart regulars.
Yeah, no more rotaries for me. I just hate the way they sound and the utter lack of torque
Awesome!.... that was one of my plans when I had my Starlet... Miata suspension powered by some kind of V6. Good luck with the build!
Sounds cool,be sure to set that V6 lump as far back as possible-the ultra short wheels base will magnify the nose heavy weight bias.
Ok gang, I haven't done a thing on this car in a couple months. How and where do you recommend I start on? There is so much to do that i am a bit overwhelmed.
I would get that Motor/Trans mocked up in the car, and then figure out the suspension/body work that will be needed to make that drivetrain work.
Sweet car man, hope it all comes together without fighting you too much. Best of luck!
This could end in a fireball. I'm sure in for this.
Even with all the rust it has? I just want to be decent and will do so even of the SHO stuff doesn't work out.
In reply to DoctorBlade:
You did see that I named it death star, right?
Fix the rust first. You've got some structural rust issues. I'd start there.
I have a welder you can borrow.
In reply to psteav:
Did not know that... I have your standard rental fee (12 pack of schlitz).
Buy 3 or 4 posterboards, a pack of sharpies and make a checklist. Suspension board, drivetrain board, body board and leave one blank for miscellaneous stuff that pops up or "maybe's" if you have time stuff. Best advice I ever got from Andy Nelson/Wheels777. Put posterboards up on the wall of the garage when you can evaluate them and mark stuff off as you complete it.
He also said if you have an hour of time to spend on the car, do a job that takes an hour. Don't start a 2 day job if you only have Friday night to spend on it, you'll forget where you were in the process and will be discouraged you didn't get anything done. I'm paraphrasing of course.
FWIW, I would start by getting rid of the rust, then mock up your engine/trans/suspension. THEN repair the rust that's still there on anything that's going to stay. You may have to do some serious floorpan/fenderwell/trunk floor surgery to get your drivetrain to fit. No sense in putting in new metal prior to that, only to have to cut it out and weld in something new.
In reply to psteav:
That sounds like a plan! Enhanced by the fact that you can help!
Welp, minor update. I started hacking the floor boards out. This is the first real work I have done in months so Go Me! There are a few pictures but I don't have time to load them right now. Maybe later.
Singleslammer, please, slow down. We can't keep up with the updates. We're certainly not wishing you'd DO SOMETHING WITH THE DAMN CAR.
You sir, need to relax... And come cut out some of this damn flooring that i need to replace.
Did you really dig up my thread to hassle me??