Getting it back together is just as much fun. If it is like the E36 the bottom of the rag joint the bolt has to be removed, but the one at the top of that joint can just be loosened. I actually prefer slower ratios--my first autocross car had a 14.3:1 ratio.
after much cursing, a couple broken screwdrivers, and using half of the tools in my garage to try to get leverage on things the stock rack and u-joint linkage are finally out of the car. By far my least favorite thing I've done in this build.
When it's all done and the e36 rack is in, I'll think differently I bet....The e30 rack seems to go almost 4.5 turns lock to lock while the e36 rack is about 3.2 turns lock to lock. They have the exact same stroke, in case anyone cares.
So will put it all back together tomorrow perhaps. Putting the u-joint back in should be just as sucky as taking it out was, grr.
to do this conversion, you have to shorten the joint since the e36 rack splined section is much longer than the e30 section. I probably could have improv'd it, but for 20 bucks picked up a kit with the correct spacers and hardware to do it off e30tech. One less thing to deal with.
freakin mess
stuff out
I manhandled the ujoin so much that I broke the OEM spacer/rivet attachment of the two pieces, lol. Luckily, those had to be drilled out anyhow
reassembled with the spacers
oh, also a few pics of the dirtiness picked up at event #1
not too dirty above the skid!
dust-o-rific
Was nice meeting you at the event, good job on your first time out, be careful though, it's addicting. :)
The probe made it through yet another event, so I guess I'll challenge it at the 2-day event in April. If I can get to the point where I can hit my groove first time out for the day I'll be doing pretty good, my times towards the end of both sessions were very good.
Not having a co-driver was a lot easier on the car, previously we were having clutch issues with one driver after another, with just myself the car was happy as can be (for what it is).
Yeah you too, and you were alot faster than I expected for sure! I was looking at the times and I had to double-take, lol.
I thought the April event was a driver's school/test n tune on day 1, competition on day 2. I may only make day 2, since that's our anniversary wekend :( I think the actual 2-day competition event is in June.
ON a side note, I got the e36 rack in and working today, though I'm having a bit of trouble getting the preload and lash dialed in. It's much heavier than the e30 rack, though much quicker at the same time. Will take some getting used to for sure.
ok, now that I'm more or less done, a quick writeup on the e36 steering rack. First of all, it was a PITA to get everything old off, but back together was easier, really.
There are how-to's on this on the web so I won't go through everything, but a few notes:
I used all the stock hoses. The early cars have a flexible HP line, so I was able to get both into position pretty easily, with new washers, etc. Accessing the bolts was a bit difficult since they're on the opposite side of where they are on the e30, but I managed.
The UJoint was a bit tighter than I wanted it, and the rubber guibo was flexed. Didn't much like that, and also didn't like the rack sitting at the bottom with the spacer on top. Lowered guys put the spacer on the bottom to reduce bumpsteer. I decided to go halfway, more or less. So I pulled out the spacers and found a comparable thickness in washers (7 of them). Put 4 on top and 3 below and the rack sits more where I want it now. As a side-effect, it also de-flexed the guibo for the most part.
Also figured out the the big "bolt" on the bottom of the rack is actually just a cover for the inner pinion bolt. Not gonna mess with that
I expect this other adjuster (not present on the e30 rack) is for lash adjustment?
all installed
FIAMM horns - wonder if these were stock or not. I love how they sound. Tempted to put them in the Subaru, actually, in place of my Hella Supertones, which sound wussy in comparison
the max steering angle on the e30 with this rack is pretty crazy. And still no contact on the inside wheel well.
and...a few other pics from the event that spencer took
the other e30, the Eta guys working on a busted radiator :(
Some stuff today:
First, did oil changes on the WRX and 4Runner. yay.
Then, more oil. It's bothered me for a while that there was some odd oil drain plug on the e30...like a rubber stopper with a through-pin, making it so that the plug doesn't come all the way out and when draining the pan it takes like 10 minutes. Also just doesn't seem that strong.
Couldn't get it out through the drain hole, so dropped the pan. A shame, since it had no leaks and testing fate now.
Here's what I found:
outside:
inside:
awesome.
unfortunately, also found why some p/o did this: the threads for the drain plug are stripped (dammit!).
In the "good news" part, the pan was really clean - no shavings, no nothing. So someone maintained this engine at least.
Luckily, I happen to have another M10 sitting here, and it has a pan on it. Time to pull that one.
hmm....someone DIDN'T maintain this engine. Tons of metal in there, tons of other random junk. But the threads are good, so we'll use it.
cleans up nicely.
Spent about an hour prepping the block and pan mating surfaces, so hopefully will have no leaks. Also sprung for the good stuff. No more crappy gaskets, will use what race friends use for built engines. $25 for a tube! grr. It better not leak.
Not surprisingly, I did a terrible job putting the bead on and got way too much on there. So it looks sloppy on the outside. Oh well. More is better than less I guess.
Installed. Yeah, I know....pretty exciting.
oh, and a gratuitous shot of the oil pickup, etc. Didn't notice anything of note
next was to get the steering squared away. Did a home alignment (I'm quite good at them, actually) and zeroed the toe to get a "baseline" feel (will tweak it later).
tried about a half-dozen settings on the lash adjustment and I think I've found a happy medium between minimum "dead space on center" and steering effort (which is much heavier than the stock rack, but feels about the same as my WRX now, just how I wanted it). May tweak it a bit more, but it's ok for right now.
what else...?
Oh, a buddy dropped off an old CG-lock that won't work on his Z06. So intalled it. Haven't used one of these before (always had harnesses in my autocross cars). Works perfectly.
--
a few little shop things too. With a 4-year-old, I've been trying to keep baby food jars. Time to put some of them up and organize all my random hardware. Because I hate guessing on what's metric and what's SAE with cars here that use both.
Really nice work you're doing... at least I think so. I've found it inspiring enough to start doing more stuff to my XR. Thanks for the motivation.
BTW... CG-locks are cool, but this being all GRM and stuff, I thought I'd share... I use the poor man's version (from one of the kid's car seats):
darkbuddha wrote: Really nice work you're doing... at least I think so. I've found it inspiring enough to start doing more stuff to my XR. Thanks for the motivation. BTW... CG-locks are cool, but this being all GRM and stuff, I thought I'd share... I use the poor man's version (from one of the kid's car seats):
truth! And I've used those as well.
But this CG Lock was free, so it's in the spirit of GRM too :D
darkbuddha wrote: Really nice work you're doing... at least I think so. I've found it inspiring enough to start doing more stuff to my XR. Thanks for the motivation. BTW... CG-locks are cool, but this being all GRM and stuff, I thought I'd share... I use the poor man's version (from one of the kid's car seats):
truth! And I've used those as well.
But this CG Lock was free, so it's in the spirit of GRM too :D
nothing exciting to talk about today. I spent the day converting my daughter's toddler bed into a twin. I can take apart an entire suspension in 2 hours but trying to figure out how to convert a simple piece of furniture takes half the afternoon.
but, mission was accomplished with a minimum of cursing
then did a few little things. First noticed that my newly-installed oil drain plug was dripping. Dammit, I knew the washer in the little baggy wasn't the correct one, grr. So tomorrow will go get a copper or crush washer, try to pull the plug, plug it with my finger, and re-install with the right washer without losing $15 of brand-new oil. Maybe just a quart, which is fine since I have a quart left in the jug, lol.
Also took the gray gasket maker and re-did the valve cover, which was leaking a bit with the brand-new OEM craptastic gasket torqued to spec.
a few other little non-interesting things (seatbelt receptacle adjustment, etc) not worth talking about or taking photos of.
So, the photo "mod" for the day. "Beacauz Racekar." And because my wife won't let me put it on the family ride, lol
so small daily update today.
upon further examination, it sounds as if it's my primary fuel pump (near the left rear wheel) that is buzzing/humming, possibly not the in-tank lifter pump (though that could be dying too?). So will replace the hi-pressure pump first, since it can still pull fuel without the lifter if needed, so I shouldn't be stranded. Ordered up a new Bosch one off ebay, should be here later in the week.
I was about to put the skidplate back on, and decided to add a bit of side flaps to keep dirt from gettin on the topside of it. I meant to do this before, but with the car on ramps it was a good time to.
As before, getting use out of an old heavy-duty Rubbermaid storage bin cover. It's pretty tough stuff, with some flex but enough stiffness to stop any debris from passing. I just riveted to the skidplate itself, and it tucks up right behind the OEM splashguards
not that I really care if the engine is getting dirty (it will get dirty, no matter what), but I'd prefer to keep as much mud and crap as possible off the fan, belts, etc.
grr
Well the updates have been in short supply recently. First because I've had some other projects going on that needed attending to, and also because the list of things I want or need to do on this car is getting fairly short here. I have to be honest, though, that the monthlong hiatus between events is killer...I want to get this thing back on course and work on my driving, and still have 3 weeks left to wait...
Anyhow, the remaining "to do" list is as follows: - fuel pump(s) - muffler - wheel bearing
So today addressed the first one: fuel pump.
I've been getting the buzzing from both fuel pumps recently. Yeah, the early e30s with the dual-pump setup (a lifter/transfer pump in the tank and the high-pressure pump under the rear rocker). The high-pressure is more important since it can (in theory) still pull fuel by itself. And it's alot cheaper, surprisingly. So took care of it today. Nothing special, but it's definitely a hassle due to the location and the way the brackets and lines are set up. But after spilling gasoline all over myself and my driveway, got it done. New Bosch pump there. And it's still buzzing. WTF. So it must be the lifter pump or the pickup filter causing the HP pump to work harder. The lifter pump new is $$$ so that's a no-go....so going to pull it out and check the pickup filter "sock" tomorrow, and keep my eye open for a used lifter pump or check the junkyards.
I was going to just switch over to a single in-tank HP pump (like later models) but didn't really feel like running new HP line to the tank and soforth.....probably in retrospect a bad decisions, but what's done is done.
While I had the fuel system empty also did the fuel filter in the engine bay. It was about 100x as much of a pain, since it's pretty crammed in there between the charcoal canister, brake MC, etc....
old one
and another little project. After the first event my trunk had about an inch of dirt througout the entire thing. WTF....the trunk has no holes, no rust-through....but it has the two damn vents under the bumper, which I forgot about. I guess they're not as "one-way" as they're supposed to be, lol.
Not like dirt is a major problem, but I'd rather not have it in the trunk than have it in the trunk, you know? Also, I really don't care to have my battery caked in clay...
So....I don't want to stop all airflow from exiting (since I like to close my doors with the windows up, lol). So found an old engine air filter and cut it up, and "wrapped" the vents. We'll see how this works.
Also pulled the GT6 out of storage and did some spring cleaning. THat also means the e30 loses its indoor parking spot, since the GT6 is not terribly weatherproof, and gets the garage bay. The upsdie is that the GT6 is so small, now I have like 7 feet of open floor in front of it, so I can actually work in the garage with the car in there, lol.
I worked pretty hard to make sure all the e30's water leaks were fixed knowning this was coming, so hope it works :)
Productive day today. With the weather nice it was time for some junkyard cruising. Went up to Crazy Ray's in Baltimore and met up with Kevin (to give him some e36 rack spacers I had leftover) and then walked around the yard with Stuart (also got some rear 318is springs from him). Didn't find much at the first yard other than a few little things. No e30s there.
On the way back, stopped by the Jessup Crazy Ray's since it's on the way home. There were 3 e30s there, with alot of parts I wanted.
For a total of about $35 I came away with: - spare tire bolt-down piece (I've been using stacked washers and a nut) - trunk finisher trim piece in mint condition - a few little door trim pieces - a non-stripped adjuster bar and nut for the alternator - a Kia coolant reservoir (which I'll use in the e30, since I'm tired of the overflow spitting out onto the inside of my skidplate) - cover for the large relays in the engine bay (might as well keep the dirt/dust out) - a manual window crank (I still needed one, amazed I found one in a junked car!) - a bunch of various bolts, nuts, and fasteners (mostly for spares) - a pair of FIAMM horns from a 5-series (love the sound of these, might replace the Hella Supertones on the WRX with them....they sound much manlier than the Hellas) - some strut tower caps from a 5-series, that I am going to use for a little project perhaps.
AND....
I just couldn't resist pulling this out of an older 5-series (which was 95% complete and in great shape, incidentally). I will install this in the e30, for pure entertainment value!
on the way home I passed by this shop and took a quick pic of it since two 993 Turbos were parked out front in race livery
about an hour and 50 miles later, as I'm exiting I-495 onto I-95 doing 75mph around a two-lane exit, a blob of yellow appears behind me on my ass. I move over quick, and he takes off at about 110+ inside of me. I'm at the limits of the WRX on that exit at 75. I catch him later in traffic. RUF R TURBO. 520hp, 550tq. NICE!
quick update on a few little things:
Upon reflection I'm pretty pissed at myself for forgetting to grab two things off the early 318i I found at the junkyard today. I was so wrapped up in pulling trim pieces and little stuff (like alternator adjusters) I forgot to get two "big" things that I need. Probably because neither of them is "in sight" so as I was looking at the car looking for things I needed, I didn't see them so I didn't think to get them: 1. lifter pump in the fuel tank (mine buzzes like a bee) 2. HVAC fan (mine squeals like a wild pig)
So guess I'll be making the hike back to that yard next week. Luckily, probably not many people looking for those parts from an old 318i, lol. We'll see.
On to a few little installs.
Trunk lip trim installed. Not really necessary, but I saw it on the JY car in mint shape so for $3 grabbed it. I know it's not really necessary to have crap like this on a rallycross car, but since I'll be pulling stuff into and out of the trunk constantly, this will keep the metal/paint from getting scratched and then rusting. So there's a reason I guess
my little reservoir project. Unlike most e30s, the 318i has no overflow reservoir for the radiator. Just a hose that hangs down and dumps overflow onto the ground (or in my case, onto the top of the skidplate). Not acceptable for a number of reasons, lol. I had a good bit of room in the front left corner of the engine bay, so kept my eyes open for a small reservoir just to use for overflow. Found a funky one off some Kia SUV that looked like it would fit, so for $5 worth a try. Fabbed up a basic little bracket to hold it. Yay.
so, next we have the front strut towers. Now with the camber/caster top hats I installed, the original "caps" over the strut bearing didn't fit anymore. A bit too small, and too low. Even when "sititng there" they'd get bumped off on hard compressions by the slightly longer Bilstein HD piston tops. Since this car is getting dirty all the time, I don't want dirt and crap in that bearing, else I'll be replacing the strut bearings constantly. Nix. Initially I just had some duct tape criss-crossed over it to hold the caps on, but that's lame and not terribly secure.
So at the JY got an idea while digging around a newer 5-series. Pulled the top caps off its struts. They're much bigger. Took a wild guess that they were about the size I needed. As it turns out, after cutting about an inch off the lower lip, they perfectly cover the entire opening for the strut bearing. On the 5-series they kind of "clip" in there. On mine no such luck....so I just used some black silicone. Not like they need to come off very often. Anyhow, a bit of peace of mind for $2.
Also installed a few random little clips and crap I was missing, nothing exciting.
Last little project was to check out the fuel lifter pump in-tank in my car. It's been buzzy, so figured maybe there was a clog or something, who knows. Anyhow, pretty easy to get out (though hard to do it withough any gas spillage....). Looks good physically, though that doesn't mean much since it sits in gas all day long and can't get dirty. The filter screen at the pickup was perfectly clean, looked brand new. So that's not the problem. Oh well, worth a look.
I've heard that an aux pump from an old Chevy Vega is about the same size and PSI, so perhaps if I can find one of those cheap I'll rig it up and see.
IMG]http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j85/irish44j/BMW%20318i%20RallyCross%20Project/IMG_0121-1.jpg[/IMG]
incidentally, checked into the tank with a flashlight to see if any crap was down in there, or rust or anything. Didn't see anything of note. The inside of the tank looks brand-new.
now the car is sitting with windows open overnight to get rid of the gas smell inside, lol...
got the car in the air this afternoon to do several rear-end items this week:
wheel bearing
swap in the rear iS springs to see if they make any difference
put the other muffler on.
Starting with #3 today.
Got the sawzall out and cut off the muffler. I'm not putting a new pipe on right now, will just get a reducer for the new muffler (which has a larger input pipe)
The muffler I got from Stuart had bungs for some other e30 model, and mine doesn't have hangers in the right position. So I ground them off. Also, the entry is on the inside (toward the center of the car) of the muffler, and my pipe goes to the outside. So I'll just flip it and have the tailpipe a bit more toward the center of the car.
The old muffler (an OEM-style Bosal one) literally rattles all around when you shake it. I think the insides have pretty much kicked it.....and sound nasty when the car is running.
old vs. "new" (used Magnaflow)
Test-fitted it with a ghetto hanger made from one of my old hangers. Looks like it will fit fine, once I get a reducer and fab up some better hangers.
oh, and earlier in the day took my daughter to the circus. Good times :)
ah ok a bit more, since my O's took care of the Twins in quick order tonight so had some time to work.
Finished up a temporary hanger bracket for the muffler. Used the original round-profile straps and with some bending and improvising I have a hanger. The threaded rod across the top of the muffler is to keep them from bending out and dropping the muffler 3-4"...
You can see the two studs from the OEM hangers at the top of the pic. This is where the two end tabs bolt up
here's how it sits
lined up well with the OEM pipe. Just need a reducer now
Then down to business on the rear bearing. Got the axle out easy (should have, since I just put it in a couple months ago!)
and yeah, the bearing is definitely shot. It felt fine when I installed the 325 rear suspension initially, but it's clear that the movement is rough and the outer race appears to be spinning in the spindle. I hope it hasn't worn the face of the spindle down, grr. Can't get the hub out yet, but that's only because I don't want to break out the BFH and start banging away at 11pm with the family asleep...
also checked out the rear springs. Instead of putting in the iS springs (which seem to be the same length), I'll take out the upper and lower rubber spacers. I thought I had left them out when I re-installed the suspension but I guess not. That's a good 1/2" or more right there...
Thanks for keeping this going, it's enjoyable reading.
A productive day today, even though it was short (having to go to Easter Mass in the morning, and dinner with the in-laws at night). I resolved about 90% of my outstanding issues with the car in one fell swoop:
First, got the new muffler setup finished up. Got a reducer and lined it up with the cut-off OEM exahust b-pipe, and all fitted together snugly. Right now it's using clamps, but I'll weld it when I get a chance. Or I may leave the clamps in case I want to run an open dump at some point, lol.
For hangers I used two of the stock hanger locations (one of which wasn't used for my OEM muffler), and as show previously fabbed up a new hanger assembly/strap bracket using the old one, some threaded rod, and some careful bending. That worked well and the muffler is mounted solidly.
Nonetheless, decided to put an "auxiliary" hanger there anyhow, in case one of the rubber ones on the other hangers breaks somehow. For this I used a standard strap and wrap hanger around the tailpipe. It's not cosmetically the prettiest thing ever in terms of a clean look, but hey....nothing on this car is.
Hit it all with some high-heat exhaust paint while I was at it, just to forestall as much rust as possible considering what this car does.
hanger setup
pipe reducer with clamps
rear hanger
mounted through trunk floor
I could go for it being an inch or two higher, but still sits higher than the old one. And has sexy big tip :)
I fired the car up and it's much better now. Instead of rattly/raspy sound now it's deep at idle (but not too loud, still quieter than my WRX with SPT exhaust), and sounds pretty mean when revved (yeah, even with an M10 attached to it :) )
On to the next project: I pulled the OEM 318i rear springs to compare with some later 318is springs I got from Spencer/Stuart. Initially I thougth they were the same length but once off the car the IS springs are clearly about 1/2" shorter unsprung length. THey appear to have the same coil thinkness so I'm assuming the rate is similar, but who knows. I also removed the upper and lower spring pads that totalled 3/8" in total height. So with any luck this will drop the rear end of the car down 1/2 to 1" to get me some reverse rake. We'll see once it's back on the ground later in the week.
stock 318i (left) vs. 318iS (right)
On to the right rear wheel bearing. Not looking forward to it, but a local guy (Viet) who I've know from way back in the Maxima days (10 years ago!) was nice enough to loan me his bearing removal set (the Harbor Frieght one). I will be getting one of these sometime this summer too, since I haven't gotten around to it yet :)
The axle came out easy, as expected. The hub too a E36 M3load of pounding with a large socket and my mini-sledge. On my back under the car, with a torn rotator cuff that makes my right shoulder not terrilbly strong. Got it done anyhow and better yet the bearing outer race didn't stick to the hub as they usually do, so that will make things easier. Hub looks to be in good shape.
On to the bearing itself, and used the removal tool. Initially I tried to pull it through using the big bolt and my Snapon impact gun, but even with as much power as that thing had it was really slow going. Eventually switched to a large breaker bar and just used good ol fashioned leverage on it. Took about 20 minutes of cranking to get it out. Seemed like FOREVER......
But it's out.
It's obvious that the outer race was spinning in the spindle as well, so yeah the bearing was totally shot. Even some metal dust in there, yay.
Cleaned up the inner spindle with a scotchbrite pad and it looks pretty good I think. Also cleaned the splines of the hub and axle with a brass brush.....getting that mofo axle in the last time was a major PITA. Hopefully it will go in better this time, since I don't have the tool to "pull" it through.
Anyhow, now I just need to hit Olympus this week and get a new bearing, press it in, and put everything back together. Car should be driving again next weekend!
I still love this thread.
irish44j wrote:
This picture looks really funny to me. It looks like it's a massive muffler with someones wrist with a bracelet holding the tail pipe up!!
hey, I need a massive muffler for the massive powah that my M10 puts out!
Epic man, just epic. 
The dash flocking turned out totally cool and the custom interior is condensed awesomeness.
Javelin wrote: Epic man, just epic.
just you wait until the car-phone is installed, then it will be ON!
picked up a new rear wheel bearing today and almost botched it big-time (and we'll see, I still may have). This is what comes with thinking something is easy and not taking your time to make sure you're going through the right steps in the right order.
so, got the bearing
new vs. old
installing the new bearing was a breeze with the bearing tool, went in no problem. Came to a point where it didn't seem to want to go in farther (in retrospect, I think the press fitting was just barely hitting th spindle, rather than the bearing hitting the backing lip).Yeah, outer of the bearing flush with the hub face, right....OF COURSE! :P
and the hub went on fine too.
it was at this point that I realized that the bearing wasn't in all the way. Of course I remembered this once I realized that I hadn't put the snap-ring into the groove, as it was sitting on the ground next to me. DAMMIT. Hub gonna have to come off, of course.
So at least it would come off easy since it went in so easy, right? Well, yeah. It came off easy. Unfortunately, when it came off it came off with the outside inner bearing race on it, and in the process broke off the little plastic interior tabs that hold the race onto the bearing. OH E36 M3.
So, not ready to just give up and go buy another $70 bearing, thought it out a bit, after getting all the little broken plastic tabs out of the bearing (not difficult, they were still there, just partly broken). From what I can tell the main job of the little plastic piece is just to hold the bearing inner race there when the bearing is off the car in the box, so it doesn't all fall apart. Once on the car, the hub holds the inner race in position by my logic, and the plastic piece basically does nothing at all at that point. Since it's pretty weak plastic, I can't imagine it's actually holding anything together once it's all assembled anyhow. I'm quite positive the broken pieces make no contact with the balls or any other moving part of the bearing. If I can crack it pressing out the hub, any real force applied to it during driving would surey do the same.
So....I pressed the remaining bearing fully into the spindle, put the snap-ring in, and re-instaled the hub (with the outer part of the inner race still seated on it). In short, everything SEEMS to have gone back together fine. There is no play in the bearing, no noise, and it operates completely smooth. I put the axle back in (surprisingly easy this time) and took it for a good 10-minute drive up to about 70mph. No noise, no issues that I can tell with the bearing.
So, we'll see how it holds up.
In related....the new muffler sounds great. Not loud, but just loud enough to know its there and make the car not sound so wussy. Also it seems that the IS springs did their job and the back of the car does sit a bit lower. You can feel the difference while driving, a bit more "lean back" sitting there. Can't tell if it really changed the handling of the car at all, but the car handled fine and predictable pushing through some hard turns.
So, we'll see if I dodged a bullet or not. If not, at least I know I can do a bearing job pretty quickly now if I have to re-replace it. I'm going to return Viet's bearing kit, but will hit Harbor Frieght this weekend and get one fo my own, since it worked like a charm.
As soon as I read "botched it big-time" I had a pretty good idea of what you did...
The front wheel bearings on a VW Mk IV are basically the same design as the rear on an E30 and I've BTDT with the first bearing I did on the TDI. THe bearing came apart much like yours did, so I had to buy another one. Fortunately, the local Pep Boys had the bearing in stock for under $40. It turned an 1.5 hr job (my first time) into a 4 hr job. The other side was done in under an hour.
It's also very easy to push the inside half of the inner race out of the bearing when pressing the hub back in if you aren't careful.
You were lucky in another area. On the VW, when you pull the hub off, the outside half of the inner bearing race comes with it and you have to cut it off.
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