Got the new front Bilstein HDs in today. I would have liked to find some used ones, but everyone seems to be selling Sports rather than HDs, and I want to start getting things put together, which was waiting on front inserts, so I couldn't wait all winter. One of the few "big ticket" items I'm buying for this car, and I'm sure they'll be worth it.
Got one installed, piece of cake. Still need to rebuild the control arm balljoints, so it's just hanging out by itself right now.
the old top-hats are a bit nasty, lol
the new camber-adding top hats....moar negative!
you may notice that one of the top studs is missing, and that brings me to "dumb things done without thinking." Took about 5 seconds to press the studs out of the old top hats since the new ones didn't come with any. No problem. Then went to press them back into the new ones, shouldn't be a problem, right? Except I grabbed a backing socket that was a 1/4" drive, and didn't even think about it. So when I tightened the vise to press the studs in, the ends wedged into the 1/4" square and DOH....so now I need one new stud.....:(
Probably going to relax tonight and actually hang out with my wife (lol!). Tomorrow's plan is to pick up some diff and tranny fluids (Redline 75W90 and Redline MT90 is what I'm planning, though still going to do some research in the morning), fill up the diff, and put it back in the car along with one of the CV axles (the other one is shot, need to get a new one).
open question: cut off the front wheel dust shields behind the rotor, or leave it? I know getting rid of it can help keep the brakes cooler, and if they're gone they won't get loose rocks caught in them.....if they're gone, more brake dust on suspension stuf but who cares about that. Any other downsides you can think of?
Wow, this build has really taken off since I last saw it. Looking forward to seeing it out at Summit Point sometime, much more comprehensive than my rallyx "build" (Buy $400 car, install water pump, flog to death). 
CLynn85 wrote:
Wow, this build has really taken off since I last saw it. Looking forward to seeing it out at Summit Point sometime, much more comprehensive than my rallyx "build" (Buy $400 car, install water pump, flog to death).
lol....the plan is to be there for event #1!
my plan originally involved doing alot less to the car. But doing the build is as much fun for me as the actual driving/competition, so what was intended to be an "on the cheap" project is now "still on the cheap, just not as cheap." Especially since I've found things that needed to be done that I didn't expect to need to be done (as always happens with old cars!) And as I learned more about e30s and how many great improvements can be had to an already great car, and on the cheap to boot (the wrx is not cheap to mod....)
And honestly, even all worn out with a wimpy engine this car was a blast to drive home, so now I kind of want to redo more things so maybe I can do some trackdays and autocrosses with it as well. Don't get me wrong, I love my WRX and its 300hp, crisp handling, etc. Every day I look forward to getting in it to battle the Beltway going to work. But there's just something more fun about making a slow car fast(er) as compared to taking an already fast-ish car and making it faster. .....
That, and I want the WRX to last another 6-7 years as my daily, so I can't beat it up any worse than autocross!
my biggest fear is that I do all this, and then at the first event I blow up the engine or the tranny....the two things that I'm not really going to do anything to other than basic maintenance....
was in a good mood after seeing the Eagles get their asses kicked, so figured I'd do one thing before bed....
Press/cut out the original control arm bushings from the "lollipop"
Then used much elbow grease to press in the new one with a bench vise, since I don't have a press here (that will be remedied soon). In advance I froze the bushing in the icebox and lubed up the lollipop with some dish soap. Went in fine most of the way, but the last 20% required a cheater bar on my vise...
mission was accomplished....
....but my trusty 5" vise, which has taken everything I could throw at it for 15 years, finally met its match
irish44j wrote:
my biggest fear is that I do all this, and then at the first event I blow up the engine or the tranny....the two things that I'm not really going to do anything to other than basic maintenance....
As a general rule, BMW M10s and 5-speeds do not blow up. Make sure they are filled with the necessary fluids, retorque the head bolts, tighten the oil spray bar bolt, adjust the valves (a little loose and noisy is better than tight) and timing, and go to town. The only actual M10 failures I've seen were head gaskets, massive overheating (the first two often go together), and a couple of blocks perforated by rods when owners used way too light an oil in a very tired engine and ran it hard.
another day, another project.
First I went and picked up some gear oil so I could load the diff (and install new, non-rusty Torx plugs), and then installed it and one of the CV axles (I need to replace the other one and haven't bought a new one yet)
Once done, took a break from the BMW to switch my summer wheels on the WRX (with SP Sport 01s, not good in cold) back to my stockers (with Wintersport 3Ds), as well as to do an oil change on the WRX.
Then the UPS girl arrived (and she's quite cute, I might add) with a surprise delivery of a set of Moog balljoints. Surprising since I just ordered them yesterday and shipped UPS ground. But the place is only like 100 miles from here, so I guess it only took a day.
So change of schedule from doing Christmas lights to seeing if I could get a balljoint out without using a press (on the list of things I need also). Using a method that someone on Grassroots Motorsports told me, and also a Dremel to make that method easier, I managed to get the outer BJ out of one of the LCAs. I will, however, need a press or balljoint installation kit to put the new ones in. It was alot of work to do this one the non-press way, so I may just take the other 3 someplace that has a press and have them do it.
irish44j wrote:
First I went and picked up some gear oil so I could load the diff (and install new, non-rusty Torx plugs), and then installed it and one of the CV axles (I need to replace the other one and haven't bought a new one yet)
You might want to reconsider your gear oil choice, especially on a rallycross car. BMW specifies a full synthetic 75W140 for their LSD-equipped rear ends..
In reply to HStockSolo:
interesting.....Redline 75W90 appears to be top choice for pretty much everyone on RevLimited, e30tech, etc....even the track guys who are working their diffs alot harder than my little M10 will be for 2-minute rallycross runs...
My Bentley, Haynes, and BMW manuals all call for 90-weight GL-5 as well.
Where are you seeing 140-weight?
EDIT: just did a quick search on the 140-weight. It looks like a few track guys use it, but I've seen alot of comments saying specifically NOT to use it with LSD diffs.
irish44j wrote:
Where are you seeing 140-weight?
Maybe its only for the E36? It is in my owners manual and the Bentley repair manual. I would be surprised if it was different for the E30 as most of the mechanical parts of the rear ends are identical. BMW actually specifies their version of a Castrol oil (BMW SAF-XLS) but it is a 75W140 with friction modifier. I am using Mobile 1, because that's what I found locally.
Time for a 120 buck trip to HF for a press!
Lots of progress! I'm jealous..
HStockSolo wrote:
irish44j wrote:
Where are you seeing 140-weight?
Maybe its only for the E36? It is in my owners manual and the Bentley repair manual. I would be surprised if it was different for the E30 as most of the mechanical parts of the rear ends are identical. BMW actually specifies their version of a Castrol oil (SAF-XLS) but it is a 75W140 with friction modifier. I am using Mobile 1, because that's what I found locally.
yeah, might be different for the e36, since those use the medium-case diff (and have alot more power). Mine is a small case and 100hp driving it. If I was doing trackdays (which I may at some point) I would definitely go to a thicker oil back there, but for short autocross/rallycross runs I don't know that the heat-handling capability of the 140 would really matter, and with my low power engine I'd just as well keep every last horsepower, lol.
btw, the Redline 75W90 has a friction modifier (the Redline 75W90NS doesn't have it).
familytruckster wrote:
Time for a 120 buck trip to HF for a press!
Lots of progress! I'm jealous..
yeah.....I'm trying to decide whether to shoot down there Sunday, or ask for one for Christmas, lol.
FWIW, I tried a heavyweight Redline oil in the diff on my 2002 once. The car felt like it was dragging around a large anvil. 75w90 is the spec I recall for all the 70s and 80s vintage cars.
wasn't working on the car today, but was organizing stuff in the garage and came upon a box with a complete set of excellent-condition Miata seatbelts (retractors, latches, etc) that I bought at one point thinking I could use them in the GT6 (which never really worked out).
Taking a look at them, and thinking of how one of my e30 seatbelts was perma-locked, and the other one wouldn't retract any more............
I'm sure you can see where I"m going with this..
Well, in any case it turns out that the Miata retractor assembly is virtually the same size as the e30 retractor, and the mount bolt bracket is in almost exactly the same position. Dit a test-fit and whadya know.....it bolts right up (you have to bend a little locating bracket on the Miata set, but no big deal).
To boot, it seems to be a direct fit into the e30 female receiver as well....locks up good and snug, unlocks correctly, etc.
Anhow, just something I was toying with. I'm pretty big on not dying in a car accident, so I may not mess around when it comes to seatbelts, but we'll see. These are 10 years newer than my e30 belts, so it might be a safety upgrade and is certainly a functionality upgrade!
I offhandedly mentioned the other day that a Harbor Freight press would be a useful birthday or Christmas present. Today after church my wife handed me her credit card and a HF 20% off coupon and said "happy birthday, go buy it and you can have it early."
Also picked up a "Master balljoint press/socket kit"
Every day I thank God for the Chinese, who brought us cheap industrial/shop tools that we can actually afford. Amazingly, this one went together fine....no wrong bolt holes, no misalignment (unlike my HF engine hoist).
Sweet, I keep looking at my poor ittle selection of tools thinking how many more tools I actually need. I am going to be in desperate need of a mig soon so I can tackle my body work. Anyway looks like your making good progress. Keep it up.
Taiden
Dork
12/4/11 12:41 p.m.
That's awesome man. Every GRM garage should have:
>20 gal compressor
110v mig welder (red or blue)
20 ton shop press
pony pack/mapp pack
plus the et ceteras and whatever air tools you can afford
Taiden wrote:
That's awesome man. Every GRM garage should have:
>20 gal compressor
110v mig welder (red or blue)
20 ton shop press
pony pack/mapp pack
plus the et ceteras and whatever air tools you can afford
sadly, no air here. The garage is right below the kids' bedrooms, so I can't be running a compressor (nor do I have room for one). Once I finish the backyard garage/shed inside, I'll set up air in there.
I have good electric tools though (impacts, grinders, etc) and really have never felt I needed air all that much, aside from being able to bead-blast, etc.
Welder, someday...
I'm missing the press, mig welder, and mapp pack. No hard feelings 
New Moog balljoints in (at least on one, so far). Piece of cake with the press and the balljoint adaptor pieces!
Also cleaned up the garage disaster area, looks nice now! Luckily I had saved a place over the last few years of setting up the garage just for the new press :)
Are you planning on painting it at all? I have some spot rust work and dents etc to do on my car. I'm trying to decide if I want to jump headfirst into a rustoleum job.
Taiden wrote:
Are you planning on painting it at all? I have some spot rust work and dents etc to do on my car. I'm trying to decide if I want to jump headfirst into a rustoleum job.
negative....paint has chips, scratches and swirl-marks, but is a decent 10-footer. Since it's gonna be covered with dirt all the time, not gonna spend a cent on paint.
I am getting some matte black vinyl (free from a buddy) that should be able to cover most of the hood though (to reduce sun glare).
I actually wish I could find a pair of front fenders the same color gray as my hood. Just beause it would be wierd.
irish44j wrote:
Taiden wrote:
Are you planning on painting it at all? I have some spot rust work and dents etc to do on my car. I'm trying to decide if I want to jump headfirst into a rustoleum job.
negative....paint has chips, scratches and swirl-marks, but is a decent 10-footer. Since it's gonna be covered with dirt all the time, not gonna spend a cent on paint.
I am getting some matte black vinyl (free from a buddy) that should be able to cover most of the hood though (to reduce sun glare).
I actually wish I could find a pair of front doors the same color gray as my hood. Just beause it would be wierd.
FTFY, imagine police car styling
