Sometimes being in the right place at the right time is what it takes to score a sweet deal. For this 318i the right time and right place was 2:00am at work. I got an email about a very cheap (as in $600) 1991 318i posted on Craigslist about three-and-a-half hours away. I was dubious when tapping the link on my phone as to what this car would look like. I expected very little from the car in the ad at all. I was pleasantly surprised at what I found out about the car. Noting that the posting had been made about 15 minutes before the email, I began texting some of the regular battery of questions about the car's condition while trying to be considerate of the fact that it was 2:00am. I was so confident that I'd want the car that I basically made the deal via text before driving over to see it only adding the caveat that "I would take it for $600 barring some catastrophic issue with it."
I drove home from work, hooked up my grassroots car trailer to the truck and headed west into a snow storm. It was a tough trip over and back but well worth it. The "thrill" of loading a non-running car onto the trailer in the snow is something you all have to try sometime. It's character building. So is driving in an unfamiliar city in the snow towing a car. Not the most relaxing day but well worth it (I hope).
So, the car doesn't run. The interior is in fantastic shape. The hood has weird surface rust on it and the rest of the paint is dead. Not sure a buffing will bring it back but I'll try that first. The engine cranks but doesn't fire although I think it sounds odd. Some in depth diagnostics are needed when time permits.
Since it was so cold and the price was so low, I felt ok just poking around on the car here and there and taking it. I know, I know..... That's not a great way to buy a car but I was also under a time crunch needing to load and drive back home in time to get ready for work.
Here are some crappy pics of what I bought. Not sure if this is a keeper, a flip or something else. Still lots of thinking to do.
Nice pickup. Any ideas about why "it doesn't run?" The M42 is a pretty bulletproof engine in most respects, so unless it blew the HG or jumped timing (original timing guide rail is a major problem area), it may be an easy fix.
In reply to irish44j:
My initial guess is timing based solely on how it sounded when cranking and I hadn't considered a blown head gasket. I spent today sleeping due to yesterday's total deprivation. It's supposed to warm up this weekend so I'll dig into it then. I'm thinking of changing the oil and filter, checking compression then seeing if I can get it started. The PO said it would start and run but wouldn't pull itself. He posted it as needing a fuel pump but I'm doubtful that's it.
At this point, every thought is pure conjecture until I spend some time with it.
If you're not familiar with the M42 engine in that car, the weak spot is the chain guide on the driver's side of the timing case. The original piece is plastic and metal and has a tendency to break apart and screw up everything in the timing case. The updated rail is available and is a much better design - but all three of my M42s acquired in the last 3 years still had the original one, all of them partly cracked.
Also check the timing cam gears. If they're really pointy, source some new/better condition ones.
Other issue with these is that the main crank thrust bearing from the factory was only 180 degrees around the bearing surface, so there was excessive crank wear on some cars on the mating surface. THe replacement part for it now has full 360 degree bearing surfaces, but most cars still had the original and could have some crank walk.
Other than those things, not too much goes wrong with M42 - they have stout (partially forged) internals and I don't think HGs are a common issue any more than any other older BMW engine.
I'm not that familiar with the M42 in spite of having one in a e36 318is for a couple years. Never had to touch it. Seemed like a great engine.
I'll take some time to learn as much as I can before this weekend so I'm not wandering around totally in the dark. I appreciate your input.
Check to make sure the plug leads are connected to correct coil. People always plug them up incorrectly causing a non-running condition. I know of several "saved" M42s due to this.
Strike_Zero wrote:
Check to make sure the plug leads are connected to correct coil. People always plug them up incorrectly causing a non-running condition. I know of several "saved" M42s due to this.
This will be one of the first things on the list I check. Thanks!
Finally got to spend some quality time with the car today. The car was so filthy I actually washed it with Dawn dishwashing liquid and a scrub brush. The paint is dead. Totally. That doesn't bother me though.
The starting issue: I determined my ear was incorrect when listening to the car crank. Maybe the batter being low made it sound funny or I was paying too much attention to other things. The car cranks over fine and sounds healthy. I'll have to replace the battery. No big deal. But it won't fire and the fuel pump doesn't cycle on key on. So I began tracing back the fuel pump issue. I've determined through testing that the pump functions and pumps fuel when powered directly from a 12v power source.
Next I bench tested the fuel pump relay and it clicks as it should. Putting a jumper in the correct place on the plug for the fuel pump relay turns the pump on and keeps it on. Still, when cranking, there it won't fire.
Then I bench tested the main relay (it's right next to the fuel pump relay). I'll add pictures in a bit. It functions properly and using a jumper does nothing. The fuel pump doesn't cycle or run and the engine does not start.
Next I pulled a spark plug and tested for spark. There's no spark either. Apparently I'm having some sort of ignition issue. Anti-Theft? General electrical gremlins? Not sure at this point.
I located a relay under the driver's side of the dashboard that I don't know completely what it does or how it should function. It clicks with key on and while cranking. Then it clicks again as if shutting off while still cranking. This one has me puzzled. I'm hitting the interwebs in search of the answer. If you have any guesses, I'm open to suggestions. I'll update as I get more done.
I'm not at my home PC . . . I'll send a troubleshooting list when I get there. Based on your description, it could be anti-theft, ECU, crank sensor, or cam sensor.
Try to pull codes. If you don't have a reader, perform the stomp test.
M42 Club will be helpful as well.
Strike_Zero wrote:
I'm not at my home PC . . . I'll send a troubleshooting list when I get there. Based on your description, it could be anti-theft, ECU, crank sensor, or cam sensor.
Try to pull codes. If you don't have a reader, perform the stomp test.
M42 Club will be helpful as well.
Thanks for the info. Stomp test didn't work. The check engine light never illuminates at any time. Either no bulb or burned out. Looks like I'm pulling the cluster now as well.
Also, I have an unidentifiable plug that has been tampered with just lying under the hood with a zip tie holding the lid and boot in place. Any ideas A.) Where this piece belongs and B.) What it does? Pic below....
Great find. I would DD that is a second.
Please tell me it has 3 pedals...
Sounds to me like the cps. Another thing to check is the grounds. That plug "that has been tampered with"looks like an aftermarket noise suppressor. Although, it could be a factory "aux fuse panel".
A little "googling" and I'd say that it is indeed an aux fuse panel. A factory addition for dealer installed options like heated seats,etc.
In reply to NordicSaab:
Oh yes, it's a 5 speed car. Can't imagine driving one with an auto.
In reply to bustedplug:
Thanks for googling that for me. I hadn't gotten that far yet. I noticed after posting it appears to have "ears" on the side (that are broken) that would mount it to the side of the main fuse panel. So that supports your findings too. The wires with fusable links run through the firewall into the center console and terminate under the back seat. No idea what those are for either but I'll google it when I have some free time.
I did take some additional pictures of the car mainly to show how clean it is under the hood and how dead the paint is.
Strike_Zero wrote:
M42 Club will be helpful as well.
Would love to have joined the M42 Club forum to research and learn more about what I'm trying to do with this car but, during the registration process, I got myself banned forever. Not too forgiving these guys....
The paint on the hood is definitely dead, but the rest of it will probably come back. The red paint on those cars usually responds well to a good detail and buff.
I can't tell if I love or hate those wheels. Great find!
Relays, just because you can tell it clicks, doesn't mean it works. If it clicks, the coil is good, but the contacts might not work. If it uses standard relays, or if the relays are fairly cheap, start by replacing all the relays connected with the non working stuff.
TED_fiestaHP wrote:
Relays, just because you can tell it clicks, doesn't mean it works. If it clicks, the coil is good, but the contacts might not work. If it uses standard relays, or if the relays are fairly cheap, start by replacing all the relays connected with the non working stuff.
I may not have mentioned that I also checked for and found continuity across the switched contacts. Does that make a difference?
Quick update. During relay checks and troubleshooting various parts of my non-start problem, I checked resistance for the crank and cam position sensors. Cam position sensor resistance is 1,219 ohms and the crank position sensor resistance is 484 ohms. From what I've read, these resistances are ok and the parts check as good.
While testing the crank and cam position sensors, I found major issues with the intake and crankcase ventilation hoses. The boot between the MAF sensor and the throttle body had a large rip in it and the other hoses were in badly dry rotted and cracked. I've pulled the intake to get access and will be replacing all these hoses. I'm hopeful that these are the source of my no start issue.
On a side note: Removing this intake makes me shudder to think how hard it will be to install and connect all the various hoses. Yikes!!
First: go on the forums and look up "mess under the intake delete" which gets rid of 2/3rds of those hoses, which are mostly just there to route coolant through the throttle body preheater. It isn't needed unless you live in the arctic (and probably not even then). Pretty much everyone with an M42 removes them. It makes life much easier in every respect. It has zero effect on anything, other than getting rid of all that crap under the intake.
Second: if you have fusible linked wires going to the backseat, chances are they were for an aftermarket amp/stereo setup. I can't think of anything else going back there that would have a fusible link (other than the main battery cable).
Third: Yeah, the M42 is pretty bulletproof but vac leaks will kill you and those are some major ones.
Fourth: While you ahve the IM apart, do the fuel injectors. Don't recall the specific model, but Ford Mustang injectors are a direct fit and give better fuel spray atomization. It's a worthwhile mod, plus they're really cheap. Check the webz for the exact ones you want - there are plenty of threads on it.
In reply to irish44j:
Thanks again for additional info. I'm digging into the delete and the injector upgrade right now.
If you need 19lb injectors from a 5.0. I can send you some for cheap.
With that big a air leak it might not run at all. With no air flow at the air flow sensor, there won't be any gas injected either.
Wonder how hard it would be to adapt a pair of webers, that would be much simplier.
