In reply to mazdeuce:
I've owned several of both, and have always found the Civic to handle more predictably. That raised my confidence level and I ended up running faster. The CRX can bite if not dealt with delicately in a corner.
In reply to mazdeuce:
I've owned several of both, and have always found the Civic to handle more predictably. That raised my confidence level and I ended up running faster. The CRX can bite if not dealt with delicately in a corner.
A turbo would quiet that exhaust right down...
On the way home from the track I kept looking at the clouds and saying "don't rain don't rain don't rain" because the front wipers looked like this.
And the rear wiper looked like this.
So today while shopping I picked up the finest bottom of the barrel wipers I could, because my play cars get clean glass and lots of rainX. 
Sooo jealous of the no rust situation. I love the little EF civics, lots of fun to drive. What do you have planned for this one??
java230 wrote: Sweet! My Dad has a 88 CRX he does Auto X in. They are a ton of fun for a smallish price tag.
java230, where abouts does your dad race? In the pacific north west regions? That car looks familiar
In reply to crazycanadian:
Yep he does the PNW stuff. Hes been up the Canada a couple times for the ones in BC
In reply to java230:
Small world. I have met your dad at a couple of events up here and down in Packwood.
Do you still have that rx7?
In reply to crazycanadian:
Definitely, I showed him your 323, he knows you too!
WHATS THE SUSPENSION SETUP?
solfly wrote: WHATS THE SUSPENSION SETUP?
Custom valved Bilsteins. Inverted in front. Spring rates that are really hard. Big rear bar on full stiff. The requisite bits and pieces to get -3.0 in front and -2.5 in the back.
One of the not working things I needed to fix was the third brake light. When I got the car the brake light switch was stuck on and all of the bulbs were pulled to 'fix' them being stuck on. I fixed the switch and picked up some bulbs and had two out of three brake lights and called it good for the drive home.
I opened the third light today to find this. There's my problem!
Bought a new bulb, plugged it in.......nothing. Found the connector inside the C pillar and had power there. Chased wires for a bit and found these little guys.
A bit of extra wire and solder and reassembly and everything is good.
The sunroof works. All lights and wipers work. The only thing not working is the blower fan. This car had AC that was removed when it was backdated to a zero option car. There should still be a blower in there somewhere. Now I just have to make it work.
Behind the glove compartment, there is a resistor screwed into the blower housing. Unplug it and and remove the screws. The coils are broken. Replace it.
In reply to Woody:
So it shouldn't look like this? 
Thanks. I was throwing that fan thing out there hoping someone would have the obvious solution for me.
This is such a cool thread. I love these types of everyday living kind of threads! Keep it up.
In reply to mazdeuce:
See the fat one? High speed probably works.
Nope. No blower at all. New resistor is coming from Rock Auto. If that fails to fix the problem, I'll move to step 2, whatever that is. And yes, I did check the fuse already.
Can you jump 12v to the fan? Maybe the motor is seized.
I was trying to figure out how your resistor wires got so messed up and I think it was probably mice. Since these cars don't have a cabin air filter to act as a rodent fence, they get in and make nests in the blower fan. You should drop motor and fan assembly (easy: three or four 10mm bolts, just below where you found the resistor), clean it out and bench test it.
Roger, will do today. Thanks Woody.
This shouldn't be there then? 
Blower motor still works. I'll clean and reassemble everything and see if the new resistor makes the system work again. Thanks Woody.
Holy crap Woody. Mechanic-from-afar award for you!
tuna55 wrote: Holy crap Woody. Mechanic-from-afar award for you!
Took the blower box and the former AC box inside and cleaned them. No reason to put dirty parts back on a car. They sit together and are sealed by a metal strap that's missing.
I got out the tin snips and some roof flashing and got to cutting.
A little weather stripping from the store tomorrow and it'll be good.
Then I pulled the air idle control valve off and cleaned it. When the car is warm it hunts for idle and drives me nuts. Most common issue is the AIC. It must work at least a little because it's a good stable idle until warm. I didn't take pictures.
When I fired the car back up, CEL. Crap. I looked at the ECU and it flashed three times. MAP sensor. What? I then spent several hours messing with this and that getting more and more frustrated. In the end I discovered that this Apexi controller is wired to grab and modify the MAP signal.
Why I don't know, but it wasn't doing it right. I unplugged the stupid thing and jumped the wires so the ECU could talk directly to the MAP sensor and all was well. And it still hunts at warm idle. Dammit.
Hunting at idle can be caused by an air pocket in the cooling system or the O2 sensor. Probably other causes, but these are the two I have experienced multiple times on the 6 examples of this car I have owned.
Cleaned the FITV (fast idle something valve) quite oily in there. Adjusted the idle screw. Played with plugging the dashpot line. Played with plugging it back in. Idle seems to have settled down and will idle consistently at 700rpm. Finally. I'm not sure which combination of hooking the MAP up right and cleaning and adjusting and the computer learning did it. Maybe I burped an air bubble in there? Checking the bleed screw several times revealed only coolant. I'll let it cool and check coolant and repeat the warm up and see how it goes.
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