Nice score yeah it's not an LS1 but for $1k you could not have bought anything else that does most things pretty well. And I got 10 sheets of plywood in one once. Try that 4ft bed fake truckers
Nice score yeah it's not an LS1 but for $1k you could not have bought anything else that does most things pretty well. And I got 10 sheets of plywood in one once. Try that 4ft bed fake truckers
I think in order for this thing to be road legal I need a brake light switch.
I'll test the one I took out of the car tomorrow if I get a chance.
ACDelco D1567D, Part 10194425 has been discontinued since 2010.
If the brake switch doesn't test out as good, it looks like I might be scavenging a brake switch and pigtails from a 1996 or later car and trying to make it all work in the 94.
The only downer to this is that one of the connectors on the '95 and later switch is 4 wires, and it's 3 wires on my switch. So, I've no idea what that 4th wire does.
In reply to Brett_Murphy :
I can look on my Camaro tomorrow if you'd like? I have my steering column out right now while I'm doing the T56 transmission swap.
In reply to Gtholen :
Yes, please. I'm cleaning the contacts on the switch I took out of my car right now.
Rock Auto has a switch "w/o cruise control." Does yours have cc?Maybe the 4th wire disables ccWhen you hit the brakes...
It has cruise control, yes. I cleaned the heck out of the switch I have and re-aligned the pins and it feels more solid now. It's raining hard in unpredictable squalls right now, and I work outside on the ground, so the test will have to wait for another day.
Great news!
Cleaning and bending the contacts a bit in the brake switch fixed the "no brake lights" issue.
I love zero dollar fixes.
I took it for a very short drive up the street and back today. Somehow in the process of working on everything, I've developed a slight wiggle in the steering column, down and to the left. It's worse with the tilt steering in some positions than in others. I may have to take it apart and try this fix.
Pretty much all 3rd and 4th gens develop that issue at some point.
GCrites80s said:Pretty much all 3rd and 4th gens develop that issue at some point.
Is the fix I linked the best way to correct it?
Got a plate on it this afternoon. I drove around town, got on the highway and things seemed to be going well. I pulled off the highway, got some gas and set off. I went to *ahem* match the speed of traffic on the interstate (70 MPH) and the car accelerated pretty well, but then it got jerky. If I backed off the throttle, it was fine again. So, the first 15 miles or so were great. The last 5, not so much. I had to baby it back home, because anytime I tried to use more than about 1/8 throttle, it started to bog down.
I'm betting that I stirred some crap up in the gas tank and need to replace the fuel filter, which is of an unknown age in any case.
To do list, so far:
- Fuel filter
- Fluid change
- check belt now that it's getting driven again
- Find out why the windshield washer doesn't squirt
- Clean and grease power windows (they're slow)
- Fix the pin in the steering column
Brett_Murphy said:GCrites80s said:Pretty much all 3rd and 4th gens develop that issue at some point.
Is the fix I linked the best way to correct it?
Depends on what's wrong. Usually it's pretty obvious once you're in there what is wallered out/loose.
I changed the fuel filter today. It's better, but it still hesitates if I stomp the throttle when it warms up. It'll spin the tires if it's cold, but it just chokes a bit when warm. Using 1/3 throttle avoids the issue.
Off to search about the throttle position system these use, if any.
- Fluid change
- check belt now that it's getting driven again
- Find out why the windshield washer doesn't squirt
- Clean and grease power windows (they're slow)
- Fix the pin in the steering column
It seems plugs/wires are the first step in a "runs bad when hot" situation. I've no idea when they were done last, so we'll start there.
I've had similar issues in the past,
Unmetered air. I'd knocked the "tube" off behind the maf on a 944.
Worked great at idle and less than 1/4 throttle.
Issue reared its head a hundred miles after I was last in the engine bay.
At 3 am
In dusters neck of the woods.
I was living in fort mill at the time...
I had to slowly gain speed on the highway and managed 45 mph in fifth gear... barely cresting the one large bridge (car dropped quite a bit of speed from 485 to 77 south...)
Brett_Murphy said:It seems plugs/wires are the first step in a "runs bad when hot" situation. I've no idea when they were done last, so we'll start there.
I'd check fuel pressure first. Procedure is outlined on the 'How To' section on Shoebox's LT1 site;
There months of fighting with the Terrible Truck has stalled this. I've started it and moved it around a bit here and there, but I've done no actual work on it. That'll change soon.
One month later:
I really have to get out there and figure this out. I've had the car running a few times, but it's not getting any love at the moment.
David S. Wallens said:FWIW, great subject line. Thanks.
Hmmm but does he really have it???.......a photo would be nice......kinda like I would read Playboy for the articles
Huh. One of the photos in the original post is gone, but the other is there.
Here it is coming home. This remains the only picture I have of it so far. Note the GRM sticker on the Utility Pig
thank you ...as they say here in Texas that DOG'll hunt ....
So, this has completely sat around as I tried to make the Terrible Truck less terrible. It was so neglected other than semi-weekly starts to keep the battery charged, it started to go into junk storage mode. I sold the truck on Friday, so I figured it was time to start working on this. Today, I had 20 minutes with nothing planned, so I decided to do an oil change. It was moved for the first time in a couple of months onto some Rhino Ramps. These are a bit lower than the old ramps I used to have, and there is just *barely* enough room for me to get under the car and get to the drain plug and oil filter. The old oil was dirty, but didn't smell too much of fuel. I put in 5w-30 synthetic and gave it a fresh filter, so that's all set. I hope to continue with fresh fluids this week, doing a drain/fill on the antifreeze, changing the transmission fluid/filter and doing the rear differential oil.
The underside of the car is surprisingly free of rust, and everything, including all of the plastic pieces, appear to be in place. The suspension, as I may have noted, appears to be old enough to be original. There are red shocks at all four corners. I've not given it too hard of a look, since I've got $1000 in a Challenge budget to fix anything wrong down there.
The driver's door skin seems to have popped free on the back side. I'm debating if I want to try to weld it back on or take it to somebody that actually knows what they're doing.
I'll get some photos soon-ish.
Took it for a brief drive today and found out that the windows have gotten sloooooow going up and down. If I have to remove the door cards to clean up the regulators, that might make fixing the door skin a default DIY job.
I got this to be a Challenge car, but with COVID and everything happening, I'm not sure how much out of state travel I want to be doing. I can tinker with it to try and get it working fairly well and maybe bring it next year, but I'm kind of torn on direction. I'm fairly sure I can probably sell it as it sits for more than I paid for it now that the brake lights work and it will pass an NC Inspection.
I spent 5 minutes looking at this today. The air intake boot (which was duct taped together) when I bought it was pretty much gone at the mounting point. THere was just some old, flimsy, crusty duct tape acting as an intake past the sensors.
A new one is $50 from Rock Auto. I already ordered it.
I'm going to try to kludge an airtight seal on what's left of the one on there and take it for a drive to see if that helps. I bet it does.
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