Www.car-part.com is an online JY parts listing and usually includes color. Sometimes pictures.
Www.car-part.com is an online JY parts listing and usually includes color. Sometimes pictures.
Would shouting at inanimate objects count as drama?
Pretty sure I yell at my tools/vehicles/equipment often enough to make up for my absence of social drama.
This morning on Polishing A Turd, watch mazdeuce spend 20 minutes of this precious life that he's been given scrubbing congealed human skin out of the five speed pattern on a shift knob with one of his kids old toothbrushes.
I'm open to anyone who wants to fund this.
So this is your car now? What did I miss?
Oh yeah, I'll see you at High Plains, I'm coming to spectate and hang out. Let me know if you need me to bring anything...
In reply to docwyte :
Not my car. Don't want to own it. Having fun though. Looking forward to seeing you at High Plains. I love that track so much.
Carpet back it. Still gross. Needs floor mats. I have a $10 solution for those that I think might make me happy.
Rear seat is probably the most decent part of the car. I hate that these are four seat cars. Need to jetisson a kid.
Front seats back in. The drivers seat has a hole in it and smells bad. Maybe a couple weeks in the sun will bake it out?
And so ends the non mechanical part of this projet. Up until now (with the exception of me playing with the AC) it's been just cleaning. No real fixing involved aside from using the stuff I have laying around. From this point on we'll have to make some decisions. Things like the door cards which are beyond a simple cleaning for instance.
To fix the fuel leak you need to start by pulling the rear wheel. At long as you tighten the remaining four REALLY tight, it's ok to ignore a broken wheel stud.
And this was the source of the fuel leak. New gasket back in. Took about half an hour. I could probably do another one in 15 minutes.
Edit: With the current terrifying tires this car will do very nice very low speed power drifts all around the neighborhood. It's fun. 
Seth, you truly have a gift for words.
Someone call Netflix. It's far more entertaining to watch Seth do this than some crappy sitcom with a laugh track.
In reply to RevRico :
How good is Slammo's Jamie Hyneman impression? Probably gonna a "straight man" to counterbalance Seth's... whatever?
edit: I submit for a name: "Deuced Cars"
AC - The system says 2.2lbs of refrigerant and I'm in the ballpark for that. Static pressure is 65psi at about 75 degrees outside. The compressor will cycle on, but only for a second or two, not even long enough to to more than wiggle the gauges. If I jump the low pressure switch it stays on and makes great cold. Low pressure falls to about 35 psi and high is maybe 155psi. With the low pressure switch jumped the AC will turn on and off with the dash switches.
So.......low pressure switch is bad? What happens if I run it jumped? Does it get too cold and ice up? I'm going to fix it properly, but I'd rather spend some time testing to make sure the refrigerant doesn't leave all by itself before I dump it to replace the switch. I really need a way to capture it, don't I?
Itll run itself regardless of freon level
I get that, so I have to pay attention and make sure I don't burn the compressor up, but if my pressures look good then....... run it for a bit to trouble shoot? It's making better cold than the Accord.
Yup. Run it. As long as pressure is good, let it eat.
Awesome. Thanks.
So here's where we sit. Car runs and drives. Shifts. Brakes work. AC works. Cycled the steering lock to lock 20 times and now the power steering pump is quiet. I'm working some air through the cooling system and I don't think the cap is holding as much pressure as it should, so new cap. Car is clean interior is clean. I think the alignment is wonky and I suspect the reason the rear tires look the way they do is because they used to be the front tires.
Some sorting to do after One Lap, but short of rear tires and an alignment, the car is almost ready to be a commuter. I think it's destined for greater things than that, but I'm just about to use the 30 day plate provision to drive it around a bit.
I’m not familiar with the mustang ac system specifically but there might be a schrader valve on the back side of the low pressure switch so replacing it might not require removing the refrigerant.
In a totally unrelated subject, can I have a factory five type 65 coupe kit and donor drop shipped to your place and stored for a little while? I promise no ulterior motives.
Think you guys could add some staged drama & yell at each other from time to time, you know, to help the ratings?
LMAO!
The above exchange of words is based on real life events.
I'm not daily driving it, but I am trying to drive it daily. Twice around the block. It needs an alignment and for me to check and see what's worn out in front. There is a whine which is speed dependent, but not gear dependent. I don't think it's the rear end, just doesn't sound like it. Can U joints whine without vibrating like crazy? Alignment and check the front hubs first, then we'll move back, change/top up transmission fluid and on and on.
ive had tires showing belts cause an odd whine before.
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
wheel bearings?
mazdeuce - Seth said:The above exchange of words is based on real life events.
I'm not daily driving it, but I am trying to drive it daily. Twice around the block. It needs an alignment and for me to check and see what's worn out in front. There is a whine which is speed dependent, but not gear dependent. I don't think it's the rear end, just doesn't sound like it. Can U joints whine without vibrating like crazy? Alignment and check the front hubs first, then we'll move back, change/top up transmission fluid and on and on.
Working back. Stethescope to the accessories while running, hub bearings hum more often IIRC. Transmission/throw out bearing, change oil. Move on to the rear, change gear oil.
In reply to Dirtydog :
Thanks for the list. The more I drive it the more the car is talking to me. It sat for a long time and needs to loosen up agian.
New radiator cap has the car holding pressure. I can't see any leaks anywhere, but again, it needs to be shaken down.
The tape measures showed about 1/4 inch toe out, more than I usually like. It's just a smidge in now but the wheel is still to the right just a bit so I need to adjust more and finalize that. It does drive better.
I also pulled the front wheels. The wheel bearings and all the front suspension stuff feels good on both sides with the exception of the sway bar bushings, those are bad. Weirdly, the strut bolts were just loose enough to let the struts knock back and forth in the knuckles. They're tight now, but I'm not sure I've ever seen that particular problem on both sides of the car at once.
The rear end has some fairly nasty looking gear oil in it. I guess that's better than none?
This is probably it for real work until after One Lap. We need two new tires and Slammo to come drive it to help form an opinion about the car.
Don't know if this would work, but........ Best of luck with the car, and have a blast on One Lap.
I've got an older version of that. Tried to use it once upon a time but the allow wheels wouldn't allow it to clearly seat against the hub with the wheel installed. I guess you could pull the wheels off and put the control arms on jack stands to get the suspension weighted again.
For camber I ended up using my cell phone and an inclinometer app.
mazdeuce - Seth said:This is probably it for real work until after One Lap. We need two new tires and Slammo to come drive it to help form an opinion about the car.
Do 235/45R17 tires fit this? I've got two Conti's from last year with 2 track days, and a little bit of circle track pick up that'd be easy to hand off if you've got the room.
Dirtydog said:Don't know if this would work, but........ Best of luck with the car, and have a blast on One Lap.
How does this work for caster? Im ready to order.....
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