Cleaning the EGR definitely helped. It actually accelerates now! It's not all the way fixed - it still won't pull smoothly all through the rev range once it's warmed up - but it's better. At least it's "good enough for a winter beater" now.
Cleaning the EGR definitely helped. It actually accelerates now! It's not all the way fixed - it still won't pull smoothly all through the rev range once it's warmed up - but it's better. At least it's "good enough for a winter beater" now.
I had a bad o2 on a nissan that would have all kinds of issues until the car warmed up. It wouldnt throw a code (at least as i was told) because the heating element (to preheat the sensor ) inside was on an unmonitored separate circuit. Might not be your issue but it might be worth it to double check sensors that could cause the same problems?
Good luck, i have a sw2 that has the dash lit up like an xmas tree. So i appreciate all your documentation
BlueInGreen44 wrote: Checked for codes, cleared codes, drove and checked again. Both checks showed: P0440 Evap control system malfunction P0404 EGR circuit range / performance The first check showed both codes twice, active and pending. Second check both codes showed pending. I'll start by cleaning the EGR. Any other ideas?
Is it possible both codes could be a symptom of the same problem? Since cleaning the EGR it has shown some improvement but not much. I'm not sure where to start trouble shooting the evap system beyond checking for leaks.
Well, I replaced the EGR. So far that seems to have... Worked! Drove it around the last couple days and "The Annoying Problem" didn't show up. Here's hoping that's not just because the weather is, by far, the coldest it's been this winter.
I've been counting the individual annoying squeaks and rattles this car makes. On cold days it's up to 13.
Oh, and this turd's turning circle seems awful. It's a pain in the arse to deal with tight driveway parking. Is that normal for these cars?
Oh yeah. Turning radius is terrible on these.
I think it felt like the clutch was slipping a little bit on the way to work this morning... I wouldn't be terribly surprised if it needed a new clutch. I haven't exactly been gentle with this car 
I shall be driving the car with a gentle touch, at least until the weather is more conducive to replacing a clutch in the driveway.
WTF. The clutch is not slipping (yay.) It's "The Annoying Problem" again. I was SURE the new EGR had fixed it. Sure as in: the car was working properly for a whole week after I replaced the EGR.
Boogers.
So, as the build thread title says, this car will (if all goes well) make it to a $20xx Challenge... so long as I can eventually get it running right I'm about to give up and take it to a shop. Right now I'm sitting here not fixing that, so what better time than now to think about plans for future modifications!
I would be driving it to the challenge and then (hopefully) driving it home so it can't lose too much of its daily driver character. I'm thinking: strategic lightness (like ditch the sunroof,) autocross tires, simple suspension refresh, brake refresh, fun paint job, and done.
Are there any easy upgrade solutions for the rear sway bar on these? Did the station wagons or SC2 have a thicker sway bar like the 2nd gen. Ford Escort wagon/GT did?
BlueInGreen44 wrote: Still chasing the annoying power loss issue. When it's bad the symptoms are exactly the same as what happens when I unplug the manifold air pressure sensor. But... It's definitely temperature related. I can tell when it's about to start happening. A few minutes after the heater starts to blow at full warmness the engine starts bogging when I want more than 1/3 throttle past 2.5k RPM. It happens little bit and then as time goes on the problem gets gradually more dramatic. I've switched out the ECTS and and intake temperature sensor with no change.
As you already stated, it's TEMPERATURE related.
If you haven't already, you need to splice in a new conncetor for the ECTS, they are notorious for corrosion and then act like the sensor is not funtioning.
. . . See the corrosion on the end of the sensor in this last pic, that is what the connector looks like too (usually). Splice in a NEW one and it will probably fix your problem.
In reply to IndyJoe:
Thanks for the tip. I tried replacing the ECTS first thing when I got the car and gave the connector a good long look. It all looked pretty clean so I didn't think about replacing the connector itself.
BlueInGreen44 wrote: So, as the build thread title says, this car will (if all goes well) make it to a $20xx Challenge... so long as I can eventually get it running right
Nope. Weld a piece of angle iron to the bar. Its a PITA to revmove and install though.
You are going to want some springs though. It just too soft to be competitive. H&R Sports at a minimum. WRX coilovers can be adapted to fit the car pretty easily, so if you can find a cheap set, I'd go that route.
In reply to ProDarwin:
Wrx coilovers fit? 
which years? How far off are the spring rates, and shock valving?
I have heard of doubling up sway bars and changing the hardware out, but that angle iron is an interesting idea too.
jere wrote: In reply to ProDarwin: Wrx coilovers fit?
Spring rates and shock valving on low-medium end coilovers are pretty much the same from make to make. Ever notice that all of them ship with 8k/6k rates on strut cars? Its very likely the only difference between most makes of similar size is the knuckle mount and the top plate.
Anyway, you can cut the top plate to fit, or you can adapt it.
http://sixthsphere.com/showthread.php/88095-Raceland-coilovers
http://sixthsphere.com/showthread.php/89533-Raceland-Subaru-Top-Hat-Adapters
ProDarwin wrote: Nope. Weld a piece of angle iron to the bar. Its a *PITA* to revmove and install though.
Bummer. I guess I'll see what new struts and sportier springs do and then decide if playing with the sway bars would be necessary/worth it.
ProDarwin wrote: You are going to want some springs though. It just too soft to be competitive. H&R Sports at a minimum. WRX coilovers can be adapted to fit the car pretty easily, so if you can find a cheap set, I'd go that route.
I was planning on trying to find a used set of sport springs or just getting the H&R Sports from TireRack. Thanks for the info about Subie parts. It's good to know there are other options out there.
I suggest doing whatever it is you do with the rear swaybar while you are swapping springs. It makes things easier. Playing with the rear is worth it. Playing with the front is not.
BTW, I think Swank Force One has a progress rear bar for an S-car that he has no use for.
IndyJoe wrote:BlueInGreen44 wrote: Still chasing the annoying power loss issue. When it's bad the symptoms are exactly the same as what happens when I unplug the manifold air pressure sensor. But... It's definitely temperature related. I can tell when it's about to start happening. A few minutes after the heater starts to blow at full warmness the engine starts bogging when I want more than 1/3 throttle past 2.5k RPM. It happens little bit and then as time goes on the problem gets gradually more dramatic. I've switched out the ECTS and and intake temperature sensor with no change.As you already stated, it's TEMPERATURE related. If you haven't already, you need to splice in a new conncetor for the ECTS, they are notorious for corrosion and then act like the sensor is not funtioning.
Tried this a couple weeks ago. Didn't make a difference 
But, I drove it to work yesterday morning and then to play basketball last night (20 minute drive) and it was fine all day.
Who knows...
I bought a nice little '96 BMW 318ti to use as a daily driver so plans for the Saturn are up in the air right now.
Option 1 is: Sell the Saturn and run the BMW (bought for $2000) for fun if I make it to the Challenge this year. The BMW would defnitely be capable and fun at a couple rallycross and track day events per year. This is what I've leaning toward now. Pros, I could easily sell the SL2 for what I have in it, my roomate regrets buying a Sebring convertible and wants me to sell it to him, I wouldn't have the cost of keeping two cars. Cons, the Saturn, while unrefined loud and ugly is quite a bit of fun, I'd miss it.
Option 2 is: Keep both cars, gut the Saturn and take it to the Challenge then rally/auto cross it until something breaks Pros, the Saturn is fun and the engine is strong, I'd have a backup ride to work if one of them is down for repairs. Cons, the cost of keeping two old cars around, I'm getting married this summer so saving $$ is definitely something to think about.
Option 3 would be: Keep using the Saturn as daily transportation, the BMW becomes the racecar. This probably wouldn't happen since the Bimmer is way nicer than the Saturn.
Sell it for a profit, drive the BMW.
In reply to ProDarwin:
That's what I'm thinking.
And if I ever miss it they're cheap and all over. Someday I'd like to find a nice early SC2 just for fun.
Bye, ratty Saturn. You've been a good cheap plastic transportation device. Hopefully your next owner enjoys many inexpensive miles.
Still hoping to make it to the challenge this year, even if I bring a stock daily driver or just come a spectator.
Gone (sort of) but not forgotten. So, I sold it for the price I paid for it (win!.) The buyer is my roommate and good friend. He bought it to replace what has become known as "The Sebring Convertible of Regret." So, it still lives in the communal driveway and I might as well keep updating this thread as I help him work on it. This is his education into GRM-ness 
So, he took it to Belle Tire to get the winter tires switched out and they did a free alignment check. Some things were... not quite within spec. I had asked them to do an alignment check when I had the Blizzaks mounted but they didn't say anything was out of the ordinary so either they didn't actually do it or winter knocked the crap out of the poor beater Saturn. The rear sway bar links are also a casualty of crappy Michigan roads.
And... it's losing coolant. Hopefully it's just a leak from a worn out hose.
Stay tuned as we keep a crappy Saturn on the road. Exciting stuff, I know.
For the Coolant leak: Check the radiator, driver side by where the electric fan mounts. The vibration of the fan is known to crack that mount and it will weep there. GRM (poor man's) repair: skuff area with sandpaper, JB weld using a panel of wire screen door material as a reinforcement lattice. kinda like fiberglass or re-bar in concrete. I nursed my last Saturn along for about four years (until I sold it to my brother-in-law) this way.
You replaced the radiator, right?
Aftermarket radiators are notoriously E36 M3ty and the endtanks are crimped on poorly. That's probably where its losing coolant.
Also, the system is self-bleeding... if there is a large bubble in it, the coolant level may take a few days to drop and appear as though it is losing coolant.
It's back...
So I'd sold the car to my (now former) roommate. He decided to attempt a DIY stereo install. "Coincidentally" after that the car started blowing fuses. Then, my favorite part: "Well, I thought if I put a 30 amp fuse in place of the 10 amp fuse it would be stronger and the fuse wouldn't blow anymore."
There was smoke and now the lighting and wiper circuits have a mind of their own.
The interior is in a pretty sad state too.
My brother and I went and got the car where stereo kid left it so we could pull parts off it for bro's new SW2.
The red car's fate is still undecided.
My vote is racecar 
We found burned up wires in the dash, so surgery is happening. A friend recently wrecked his SL1, unfortunately. But that means we might have a source for a free wiring harness. This one might live again.
You'll need to log in to post.
