What do you think the chances are that one could disassemble the ignition switch and remove the tumblers? I have an idea, but I really don't want to ruin my switch to see if it works.
What do you think the chances are that one could disassemble the ignition switch and remove the tumblers? I have an idea, but I really don't want to ruin my switch to see if it works.
BLRB said:mr2s2000elise said:Are the 3.5/6MT realiable in the coupe configuration?
I don't know much about the J35, but I've seen a lot of poorly maintained J30 and J32 MT Accords and TL's make it to 200K miles as I looked for my Accord. My limited anecdotal experience tells me as long as you keep oil in the engine and do the major maintenance(timing belt/water pump), they will run. J series also like to leak oil. Oil pump, cam seals, main seals, VTEC Solenoid gasket, main cap bolts, etc. A lot of people dump the car around the timing belt intervals since it is an $800-$1,000 job at a mechanic.
Here is a "long term" test of a J35 coupe that might be an informative read:
https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/02/2014-honda-accord-v6-coupe-6mt-long-term-test-36-months-45500-miles/
J32 is a bored version of the J30, the J35 is stroked, which is why it gets a lower redline than the 30 and 32. Not the end of the world by itself, but something to be aware of for those like Seth and I who want to do dumb stuff with them.
And then you've got the K24's being spun to what, 9000+ with a massively bigger stroke? It's probably not the weakest link.
OP, i feel you on the plate screws thing. I have similar damage on the back of my Cayenne for the same reason, and since it's in a textured plastic area it cant even just be filled and sanded and painted like yours. 
Vigo said:
I don't have to worry about those screw holes any more. Got rear ended today again with a bit more force. Funny, I've never been rear ended in my 20+ years of driving. Now twice in 2 months. Maybe this Accord is cursed. Going through the other driver insurance. Have an appointment next week for an estimate.
mazdeuce - Seth said:What do you think the chances are that one could disassemble the ignition switch and remove the tumblers? I have an idea, but I really don't want to ruin my switch to see if it works.
Shouldn't be rocket science. I can send you my old switch if you want to experiment. It worked 90% of the time when I replaced it.
BLRB said:Vigo said:I don't have to worry about those screw holes any more. Got rear ended today again with a bit more force. Funny, I've never been rear ended in my 20+ years of driving. Now twice in 2 months. Maybe this Accord is cursed. Going through the other driver insurance. Have an appointment next week for an estimate.
Well.. normally getting rear ended sucks.. but take the wins when you can! free pumper repair at no cost to you is a bonus.
J30 series engines are bullet proof - until the newer models where Honda screwed it up with the AFM/cylinder deactivation crap.
My wife and then me (after we got married) had a 7th gen J30 sedan (2005). That car was an auto and boring as hell, had it been a 6 spd i wouldve kept it. The engine was solid, but I essentially replaced everything around the rest of the car. The worst was when the tranny E36 M3 itself at 146K miles. I did that job on my back, in the garage at our old house and really really had a pleasant time . I got rid of our Accord for a 4th gen V8 4Runner when my wife was pregnant with our youngest. Like I said, if the Accord had been a manual, I wouldve hung on to it and it would've been infinitely more fun to drive.
Please keep updating this thread - oh and your car looks great - even more so after you get a new bumber.
Things continue to disintegrate around my engine.
Replaced the intake hose with a $10 Chinese part off ebay. I had to cut off excess flashing, but otherwise seems to fit well. The old intake hose was hard as a rock and had a bunch of cracks.
Passenger side engine mount was on its way out. Replaced it and one of its bolts. I knew the bolt was in bad condition from the timing belt replacement so I ordered a new one awhile ago to replace when I swapped in a new mount. This bolt is known to strip or get stuck.
I also added a wider gas pedal for easier heel/toe
Last time I changed the oil, I made a mess with the filter. It's in a weird spot. This was my first time using a form-a-funnel. These things are awesome! Didn't spill a drop.
Brakes had the shakes, so I installed new rotors. A BFH and impact driver could only remove 1 of 4 rotor screws. I had to drill the rest out.
Car is finally in the shop getting a new rear bumper. I have had 2 rental cars this week.
2018 Camry SE - Handles remarkably well for what it is. Chassis is very stiff and it would be high on my list for a DD if it came in manual.
2019 RAM 1500 5.7. HEMI - Camry smelled funny and was filthy inside. Rental company ran out of cars and offered to swap it out for this huge truck. Very nice and quiet. The Uconnect system is one of the better UI's I've encountered. This truck moves impressively well, feels like it would run 14s. Remarkably comfortable ride for a truck. I am impressed.
Glad the car is getting fixed!
I did all 5 mounts on a v6 accord like yours a while back. Some of them are surprisingly finicky! But i bought the whole set off Rockauto for <$70, so at least it was cheap!
I got my car back from the body shop. New bumper and paint look good. Another 2,000 uneventful miles racked up. I checked the rest of the motor and transmission mounts, they seem to be fine. Also, looked at the front compliance bushings in the lower control arms. They appear to be ok as well. Currently, I don't have to replace anything that is made of plastic or rubber for the first time in awhile.
I did replace the front driver side door check. The door wouldn't stay open anymore and after a bruised shin, I ordered the replacement part. Its funny how little things like a door check make car ownership more enjoyable and less painful.
Hey Vigo,
Thanks for keeping this thread alive, it's nice to see someone taking good care of their car.
How do you figure out of a bushing is ready to be replaced without uninstalling it? Obviously you can take it out and check for cracked rubber, or if you're lucky check the condition without removing it, but I was curious as to how you narrowed it down to those front compliance bushings on your car.
Thanks.
I want one of these.
In reply to ek :
You can see the compliance bushing condition with them installed on most applications. You'll be able to see them separating from the metal outer sleeve and inner bolt sleeve as well as cracking.
heh, your accord thread almost mirrors the one i've made for my civic. ended up using the form-a-funnel for the same reason and upgraded my door checkers to 9th gen units which made a really satisfying difference. just your average honda idiosyncrasies from that era i guess!
ek said:Hey Vigo,
Thanks for keeping this thread alive, it's nice to see someone taking good care of their car.
How do you figure out of a bushing is ready to be replaced without uninstalling it? Obviously you can take it out and check for cracked rubber, or if you're lucky check the condition without removing it, but I was curious as to how you narrowed it down to those front compliance bushings on your car.
Thanks.
You can can see cracking in them if they are really bad. You can swing the control arm out by unbolting it from the subframe for easy access for a more thorough check or replacement. You can keep it attached the the ball joint too. I found it in this on this person's DIY. The link below shows a borked bushing to give you an idea.
ScottyB said:heh, your accord thread almost mirrors the one i've made for my civic. ended up using the form-a-funnel for the same reason and upgraded my door checkers to 9th gen units which made a really satisfying difference. just your average honda idiosyncrasies from that era i guess!
Yeah, the 2000ish Hondas all seem to have the same quirks. I've kept up with your thread too and have a saved search emailing me every time a 9th gen si pops up.
It's not my car this time! One of the few things I really like that I haven't found a terrible excuse to own!
Honda compliance bushings have a reputation all their own. I just replaced some in an Element with some Moog 'problem solver' bushings which are really spherical joints. I do believe they fix the durability issue but the ride quality downgrade is noticable. I would still do it on my own car, but it's definitely a compromise.
Few updates:
More rubber disintegrating. The coolant hose that feeds the overflow tank started leaking. Replaced with a new one.
Driver side rear damper is leaking.
I was planning on replacing the springs and dampers this weekend, but Summit Racing only sent me 3 of 4 of them. #4 is being shipped from the west coast and will be here later this week.
Instead, I installed a $16 ebay backup camera. The parking lot at my gym is very tight. I got sick of doing 3 point turns, so this will help. My Accord has the factory Alpine NAV unit, so this plugs in with minor fabrication.
And since I didn't install suspension this weekend. I peeled a layer of love bugs off the front and now its clean and makes me feel better.
So that camera specfically replaces your license light and just fits right in? That's cool.
Yup, clips in the same way as the license plate light. Even comes with a replacement weatherstripping.
I've driven about 750 miles on the new suspension and its nice having working rear shocks again. The trunk started leaking with the latest rain.
Narrowed it down to the passenger side tail light
The seal failed from too much crud
You can see where it built up on the body near the trunk seal.
Put on a new seal and so far no leaks after 2 days of rain. I'll do the driver side soon since its probably not far behind.
I have been racking up the miles this summer. I should hit 100K miles after my next road trip in 2 weeks. Just more maintenance updates.
- Another oil change
- Checked the torque on spark plugs. I do this every oil change since they are known to loosen and shoot out of the head. Each was still torqued properly so Im not sure if some heads were manufactured incorrectly.
- Put the car on the alignment rack after installing new suspension. Alignment was surprisingly still good.
- Had new tint installed since the 12 year old tint was flaking off the windows. The tint folks were all Honda car guys, but didn't know my car existed(V6 6 speed Sedan). They were very excited about it.
- Installed a new set of tires since the wet traction of 5 year old dry rotted tires was becoming very sketchy. I went with General G-max RS. It's a newer medium summer tire similar to the Indy 500's. So far wet grip has been great and dry grips is ok. Road noise is surprisingly good. The Accord has an odd tire size so I was happy these were available.
Picture with new tint and blending in with all the other Accords.
I have one of these, mine is an ‘06 and non-Nav but otherwise basically identical. I bought mine with 90k on it as well, and have run into most of the same maintenance issues as you except for the water leaks.
Unfortunately I found out the hard way about the cyl 5 spark plug blowout possibility. I did a time-sert thread repair 20k ago and haven’t had any issues since, luckily.
Any mods planned for you or are you just keeping it stock as a fun DD?
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