$2014 Challenge Corolla

Look for this in 2014:

It runs as well, but does need tires, brake hoses, brake work, a windshield and some assembly.

I washed some of the schmutz off, but didn't snap any pics.

Price break down thus far:

• Corolla = $500
• Towing and transport = $150
• Battery = $85
• Vacuum lines, connectors, caps = $10
• Oil = $7

And . . .

IT RUNS

Yep . . .IT STILL RUNS

It ran from a six gallon gas can without any issues. I added about 3 gallon the tank and the filter never filled . I guess either the line or tank is filled with crap.

I‘ll get it on jack stands this weekend and check those out.

Good start I would say

Man that looks sweet

Looks like a good start!

great starting point!

Cool! You already have the Star Wars headlight's going for you.

In reply to Gasoline:

You know . . . I didn't even think about that!!

I need to bug the GRM overlords for some hints about the rule changes for next year to keep me on track. Evilbay has WAY too many goodies on there . . .

I did dig through the trunk and no dash so I have build one. But, all of the lights and reflectors were in there.

The AC and heater core has been stripped from the dash . . . less work for me

Pics of the 13x7 rear wheels . . . I need to find some for the front:

Pics of the Mazda FB front wheels:

Lots like the rear-end isn't quite center:

And a pic of the back window:

Found 2 "baby supra" 13x7 wheels like the one's mounted on the rear. However the Federals I want to run are $100/tire.

I also found some Celica Supra 14x7 wheels for $150 for the set. The Federals in 14" are $56/tire.

Hope I could snag it.

Made some progress today.

I dropped the rear axle and cleaned it up.

Before:

After:

After digging around, I found some rust. The spare tire area has some rust holes (no pics) and some rust on the lower passenger side quarter panel:

Here is a pic of the rust at the top of the door:

I also dropped the fuel tank, cleaned all the crap off the outside. I drained all of the orange gas and replaced the old rubber lines.

I'll put up some pics later of the new red rear axle and red links.

Trying to decide on some wheels . . .

Celica Supra Wheels 14x6:

Datsun 280z Wheels 14x6:

Bassett Stock Car Wheels 15x7:

The first two wheels are outside of area, so I'm looking at shipping hitting the budget. Even thought the Bassetts are initially more expensive, they are only 30 minutes down the road.

A very un-lame Corolla!

shipping might be tough...but theres some period correct-ish 14" wheels here

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/200x-classifieds/moving-sale-portland-or-wheels-toyota-4age-ae86-aw11-parts-tools-and-misc-open-to-offers/51946/page1/

I made the decision last night to try out the Primewell PZ900 tires on the Corolla.

Even thought it is an unknown tire to me, the $60/tire local price isn't too hard to swallow for car that will spend most of it's life parked in the driveway . . .

I'm planning on getting the stock car wheels as well . . . I get to support a "local" business and get new wheels in the size I want without the hassle of shipping. For $30 more . . . I'm going to jump on it.

Made out like a bandit today at Pull a Part.

• MkII MR2 Seats
• MkII Purge Canister
• MX73 Cressida suspension and brakes (10" and vented)

All that for $150

The rotors look good and the pads have PLENTY of material.

The stock LCA with these strut housings result in positive camber. The MX73 LCAs are a little longer and result in negative camber.

The steering arms appear to have the correct taper for the balljoint. I'm going to measure it up and see how close it is to the stock steering arms.

I'm adding the Corolla spring and strut tops (MX73 stuff is too big).

The MR2 seats need to GOOD cleaning. The driver seat will be patched. They supposedly fit AE86 chassis with a little modification. AE86 seats fit in TE72 . . . Soooooo, we'll see.

Today was a good parts run day . . .

Sweet! those seats actually look very comfy....decent bolsters for an OEM

I've sample those a few years ago, and they were really good for OEM seats. If I can make them work with the "little" effort everyone says, it would be awesome.

I'm trying to decide if I wanna get the AE86 P/S steering arms. They are shorter and should speed up the slow worm and gear.

From L to R:

AE86 P/S, AE86 manual (one that's same length as MX73), and XT130 Corona

But . . . . That $80 could be used on something else . . .

I just made a list of all the stuff I need to order from RockAuto. I'll drop the order around Thursday/Friday time frame

I took a step back and focused on the engine bay. Man did they booger up the underhood wiring harness. The ignitor and a ton of other wires are twisted together

So next week, I'll dig intot the engine bay harness and correct those issues.

Being this is my first time doing drum brakes on a car . . . I took some pics . . .

The adjusters appear to . . . adjust, but I made as well get another pair, just in case. I'm not sure if the wheel cylinders are good or not, so I'll order up a pair along with some drums, shoes, a brake hardware kit and cleaner . . . Wish me luck!!!

FYI: Suggestions, tips and hints are welcomed

Strike_Zero wrote: Being this is my first time doing drum brakes on a car . . . I took some pics . . .

What the berkeley is THIS witchcraft?!?!?!

It's true . . . 1st time evar!!! Everything else in the driveway is disc brakes. The Dakota rear drums were done at an indy a few years ago when I had it there for serivce . . . I was "deprived" of that due to price he charged me

drums are not hard... hardest bit is not having a few drum brake tools.

those early Supra wheels(13") are worth a fair amount of change... you might sell them to lower your costs.

In reply to oldeskewltoy:

I only have the drum brake tools from Pepvance O'zone that someone bought for me many a Xmas ago.

I plan on selling e'erything that I don't use

I also noticed the panhard bar is bent as well (explains the offset of rear axles). Would an attempt to bend back make things worse?

I went out to the garage last night (couldn't sleep) and attempted to remove the bend from the panhard bar. Almost have it straight from a few wacks of the 3lb BFH.

I also noticed this:

Should the panhard bar mount be at that angle on the axle???

That mount is very tough to bend..... a slight angle would make sense because the panhard bar is on a slight angle.

When doing drum brakes it helps to take a few photos during disassembly... It also should be done one side at a time so you can refer to the other side if needed. There is often a leading shoe, and a trailing shoe, so make sure you get them right. Finally, you may want new hardware (available on Rock Auto), new hardware should prevent brake failures... speaking about brake failures... wheel cylinders are only a few dollars each... change them too

In reply to oldeskewltoy:

Thanks for confirming!!

I added just about everything I could think of for the rear brake job on my RockAuto list.