3tc corolla

Recently i purchased a 1982 toyota corolla deluxe sedan. What are my options on getting more Hp and torque on the 3tc engine that it has. I would appreciate any feedback. I know it comes down to what I want to do and How much I'm willing to spend..keep in mind that this is my first project Car and don't want to spend a whole lot of $$$$$. I would totally appreciate it.

Here you go:

http://www.brdracing.com/

Thank you mlb. I've already looked into brd...what I am looking for is some option or input on overhauling the 3tc motor I have in my 1982 toyota corolla 1.8 deluxe sedan that I have just purchased. Want to add some HP and torque to it. If you or anyone has any suggestions I would gladly appreciate it..keeping in mind that this is my first project car.once again thank you... reply to mainlandboy:

Are you willing to pull the head and do a valve job??

many of Toyota's 2 valve engines can really use a 3 angle valve job...

As you can see above the absence of a 3rd angle really sticks out in the airflow, causing the exhaust gasses to have to flow around the edge

How about a camshaft change and side draft webbers? And there is the option of hanging a turbo on it. I have heard that the comp. ratio is around 9:1. Iron block + low compression + turbo + small light weight car = fun! Or you can take my approach and force a v8 in it.

Does anyone know where I can get a 81 supra rear end. I've been doing some research on swapping a 81 supra in my toyota. And I would love to give it a shot. But haven't had any luck in finding one up here in Northeast nj... If anyone has one and is willing to part with or knows of anyone who does let me know I would totally appreciate it. .thanks

closest I can find in a quick hunt is smith auto recycling in MA has an 81 supra listed for parts. Might want to call and see if they have the rear axle (not listed in a parts search) http://www.smithautorecycling.com/

Thanks for your feedback jthw8... i'll give it a shot in the morning. In regards in a rear end swap I also heard I would be better off swapping a Ford 8.8 rear end cause I'll have a better chance in finding one than the 81 supra. What can you tell me about that swap if you have some feedback on this i would appreciate it. And what ratio i should go with (3.73 or 4.10) a lock one or a nonlock one.if you or someone can help me out on this keeping in mind this is my first project Car and I have no knowledge to this although I know enough but not to much in overhauling an engine and some..once again thanks .to JThw8:

In reply to Rookierolla:Hey, man, I've got a couple of Toyota based projects going on, and thought I'd share what I came up with: 85-ish Toyota mini van rear end;4.10 gears, accepts front 4X4 lockers(same as 4X2 rear), about the right width, cheap as heck at your local pull a part, available 4 link, or leaf spring, and strong as heck. There were some complications fitting the true track. I believe V6 bearings were needed, or some such thing. I had a local 4X4 shop set the rear end up. These are' kind of like mini 9" rear ends. The chunk comes out once you pull the axles. Pretty trick. Check them out.

why are you swapping the rear?

Thanks wheelsmithy for your feedback...but i think i'm gonna go with the ford 8.8 or the 81 supra rear end. Once again thanks. If you have any other ideas i would appreciate it in hearing them from you or anybody else.thank you ...In reply to wheelsmithy:

I'm thinking ahead cause i might go turbo and efi. And want a reliable rear..the part that i'm confused at is what gear ratio i should go with locking or nonlocking differentail..i know it depends on what my intentions. Not that i'll be taking it to the track and compete. But to take it out on some weekends and kick some hondas rear end if you know what i mean.. no disrespect to the honda clubs...and thank you for asking..what would you suggest... reply to oldeskewltoy:

Merry Christmas everyone. .does anyone know if there is a lsd differential that I could use..was thinking of doing a Ford 8.8 swap. But i think I might just change my differential to lsd for the mean time. I would appreciate the feedback. .Thank you and happy holiday.

Gear ratio is going to depend on a lot of things mostly your end goals. 3.73s are generally a good set of gears. If the rest of your setup can support 4.10s then they'll give you better launch and low end at the sacrifice of top end. I have 4.10s in my Marauder, they work behind a big healthy V8, not so sure about behind a 3tc.

If the 8.8 can work in your car go with that, they are easy to find, you can get them with disk brakes and an LSD.

Thanks jthw8 for your feedback and your input..i did my researh and i found some ford explorers with disc brakes which was interesting and that may be the route i would like to go..but for the meanwhile is there a lsd differentail that i could put in my rear end housing, cause the one that it has it isn't lsd once again thank you for your help...reply to JThw8:

Hello everyone. ....I decided to go junkyard hopping for a "99" ford 8.8 explorer rear end. I've found a couple of them in one yard they were 3.55 ratio and at $200.00 but he couldn't tell me if they were lsd differential. He told me that they all came the same. I wasn't convinced. So can anyone tell me if they were all lsd differential and should I go with the 3.73 which they didn't have . I would appreciate the feedback. .Thank you

I did some research and found out that the guy in the yard didn't know what he was talking about. They aren't all the same. There's non - limited slip and limited slip. Thanks to Google .

yep, there's a tag on the housing which should tell you for certain but there are definitely different ones.

If you want to get an idea of what you are starting with for reference, check the shiny Toyota plate on the top of the firewall inside the engine bay. It will have a bunch of stamped information about the chassis, engine, paint codes, and axle code. Your axle code is four digits, starting with an S. The S is for a 6.3" ring gear. The second and third digit represent the ratio, and the last digit tells you how many pinions and if it is open or limited slip. Your car will be open, so the last digit is a 2 or a 4.

3.31--S412/S414

3.58--S372/S374

3.73--S302/S304

3.91--S312/S314

4.1--S292/S294

Just for further information in case you want to look at Toyota options, the AE86 Corolla and some Celicas used a T, or a 6.7 ring gear, and the Supras/Cressidas/Toyota trucks came with an F, or a 7.5" ring gear.

On a small four-cylinder car with a high-winding engine, a tall final drive like the V-8 guys use will hurt acceleration. Most of the TE72 Corollas like yours came from the factory with a 3.7 or a 3.9. If you want a car that jumps off the line or you want to drive fast in the twisty stuff, get a 4.1 or 4.3 (which was stock on later Corollas like mine) but it is a little noisy on the highway. If you do a lot of highway miles, then by all means go for a taller ratio like the 3.5 or 3.7 for more relaxed revs at speed and better gas mileage, but you will lose out on acceleration a bit. The taller ratios will probably be fine if you add a turbo. IMO, 3.9 is probably a good all-around setup with a lightly-tuned engine.

I'm sure oldeskewltoy will jump back in here if I have forgotten anything...

I have an 8.8 ford rearend from a foxbody mustang installed in a 1981 TE72 Wagon. The driveline is 1UZ > W58 > 8.8 LSD with 3.27 gearing. I would advise you to either stick with what you have (especially if you still have the 3TC) or get a 79-85 Toyota truck axle because they are about the same width (about 55" from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface) as the stock E7 series corolla rear axle. The 8.8 feels like overkill to me and it is 59" wide with the drum brakes and it also leaves you with a 4x108 lug pattern. There is also the 80's Toyota Van which has a 7.5 rear end that is 57" wide and has a matching 4x114.3 lug pattern. The truck axles are 5x114.3 which still leaves you with 2 different lug patterns on your car.

In regards to gearing, I would like to have something more like a 4.10. The 3.27 makes 5th feel unnecessary. 60mph in 5th gear is 2000 rpms. I would gladly take higher cruising rpms in exchange for closer gearing.

I may be able to help also. My car would turn about 2850 rpms going about 60 mph when I had the stock axle in it with a 1:1 3rd gear ratio and a 2500 stall. I figured the axle ratio to be close to 3.60ish and a tire that was about 25 inches tall. I swapped out my stock diff to an 8.8 from a 96 explorer with a diff code of a d4_ something. I can't remember but is was a code in the door jam. I found it on a ranger site that had all of the codes, ratios, lengths, and spline counts. The 8.8 in explorers with rear disc brakes have a 31 spline axle. Where the rangers and mustangs have a 27 spline axle. I also had to cut "7 inches" out of the axle length to fit under my car. 5 inches on one side and 2 inches on the other to put the driveshaft in the middle of the tunnel. I did get the advantage of rear disc brakes the had to be swapped from side to side to clear the shock but I also inherited the requirement of buying after market axles, which sucks. I cut the stock Toyota brackets off of the housing and welded them to the 8.8 axle. And I have found that a 26x8.5 tire is about the limit on your tire size. I hope this helps.

Rookierolla wrote: I'm thinking ahead cause i might go turbo and efi. And want a reliable rear..the part that i'm confused at is what gear ratio i should go with locking or nonlocking differentail..i know it depends on what my intentions. Not that i'll be taking it to the track and compete. But to take it out on some weekends and kick some hondas rear end if you know what i mean.. no disrespect to the honda clubs...and thank you for asking..what would you suggest... reply to oldeskewltoy:

I had 170 horsepower going through a stock E7 "S" differential (small one) for over 8000 miles and I had no problems. This isn't to say you wont need one at some time... but for now, unless yours is failing, invest your cash elsewhere...

Thank you for your input and opion it is totally appreciated.i think I'm gonna leave my rear end on standby. Once again thank you oldeswekltoy. Does anyone know what distributor cap and rotor that will fit my stock distributor. Cause I recently purchased nology hotwires from vivid and they didn't ship me the distributor cap and rotor which they were to ship me but they told me that they don't have the cap or rotor. Now I'm stuck with the wires and no cap and rotor. I've tried talking to vivid and now they're telling me they don't have the cap and rotor. Which they claimed did did have when I purchased the wires with distributor cap and rotor. Now i'm stuck with the wires and no distributor cap and rotor. . I'm very disappointed at vivid for not letting me now in advance when I made the purchase. So now I'm stuck with the wires and no distributor cap and rotor. . I need the cap blue if possible with the 5 snap on tip (nipples) and the rotor to go with the hotwires that I have. If anyone knows where can I get them... Thank you. . In reply to oldeskewltoy:

Rookierolla wrote: Thank you for your input and opion it is totally appreciated.i think I'm gonna leave my rear end on standby. Once again thank you oldeswekltoy. Does anyone know what distributor cap and rotor that will fit my stock distributor. Cause I recently purchased nology hotwires from vivid and they didn't ship me the distributor cap and rotor which they were to ship me but they told me that they don't have the cap or rotor. Now I'm stuck with the wires and no cap and rotor. I've tried talking to vivid and now they're telling me they don't have the cap and rotor. Which they claimed did did have when I purchased the wires with distributor cap and rotor. Now i'm stuck with the wires and no distributor cap and rotor. . I'm very disappointed at vivid for not letting me now in advance when I made the purchase. So now I'm stuck with the wires and no distributor cap and rotor. . I need the cap blue if possible with the 5 snap on tip (nipples) and the rotor to go with the hotwires that I have. If anyone knows where can I get them... Thank you. . In reply to oldeskewltoy:

Vivid took 4 months to get me/my client a set of valve springs.......

You're getting ahead of yourself. Start with a desmog and general tuneup. Delete cat, air injection, and everything else in the vacuum line rat's nest besides the EGR (if still functional), intake blend door, and a draft style EVAP system. Then bump the timing up a couple degrees and hook the vacuum advance to port vacuum. If the exhasut system looks restrictive, build a better flowing one for it. That alone is usually good for at least a 10% power gain.