In reply to Slow_M :
Ha! Just saw your post on Scott's build, and lo and behold you've visited my build too! In this shot it looks like a 3000M. Nice fender flairs. Welcome to my (our) builds... please feel free to give input, advice or comment whenever you wish. Where are you? Appears to be LHD, but they weren't sold here (assuming a 3000M). Canada? Later import? Enquiring minds want to know!
‘75 2500M. It was John Wadman’s Original demonstrator, when he first became a TVR dealer and importer.
What are you planning for your engine/transmission?
In reply to Slow_M :
2500M huh? Lost it's side vents along the way then. My plans now are a slightly uprated TR6 engine with the TR trans. As you saw in my thread I've uprated the rear with R200 diff plus Goodparts alloy hubs, shafts and cv joints. I'd like to do the 5-speed like I have in my TR3 but am not ready to shell out the cash for it (yet). So nothing as radical as you or Scott.
All M bodies lost the side vents part way through ‘74, IIRC. The hood NACA ducts went away around the same time.
In reply to Slow_M :
I bow to your more thorough knowledge of all things TVR. I'd like to know more of TVR's history and development, but it's so hard to glean the facts from assumptions and conjecture. I'd love to find a proper source of info, as I do so enjoy the minutia and trivia regarding the cars I love.
I was able to drag the TVR frame out into the sunlight, after going over it looking for areas I missed while painting in my garage. Marked the spots with some painter's tape to remind me. Outside I realized there were several areas that were not painted. I'm pretty sure I'll be taking it out again after it's flipped back right side up to check for more! It was about 94 degrees today, and the sun was brutal. Still, it looks pretty good all shiny and black.
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
That looks amazing! Let me know if you need more paint or help moving it.
Yes, looks amazing. This is my favorite thing about these old British cars where you can assemble a chassis from a bare frame. So much easier than a unibody.
Congratulations on the milestone!
Keep posting!
Had company off and on this past week-- my Mom (age 90!) and my little sister came out from California for a little visit. Left this morning, so I was able to get out into the shop and play a bit. Got the frame righted again the other day, so I went through it and did the final(?) touch-up with the gloss black paint. Looks pretty good!
Still not really happy with the blast cabinet. Got some different media (aluminum oxide?) to replace the soda I had in it before (mistake) and it did work better, but still not meeting my expectations. Maybe the parts I'm trying to clean up are too rusty/pitted to clean up that way. Had better luck with the new angle grinder and a flapper disk, but it doesn't get int the corners/nooks and crannies like I need it too. I can see how a guy can end up with a garage full of specialized tools! Still, I have to get the suspension parts cleaned up some so I can get the bushings in so I can get the rear upright rods fitted with the lower A-arms (I'm sure TVR Scott knows what I mean). Of course, that won't really matter until I get a differential to mount with the new axles. I suppose I should just get to work on the front suspension build until I have all the parts for the back.
After seeing all of TVR Scott's progress I'm feeling left behind... maybe I should try to clean up my wheels too, although I'm still leaning toward a new set of "hyper black" Konig Rewinds, most likely in 16"x7". I like the "T-slot" TVR wheels, but they're 14"x6" and I will probably be using just one set, and there are just too few choices in 200 tread wear autocross tires in 14". It's looking like 205 front/225 rears in decent low profile will get me about 25" diameter, which is pretty close to the stock 14" original height. I've wavered between 15" and 16" rims, but performance tire choices in 15" end up with a rolling diameter that will kill my top end without a 5-speed conversion-- an expense I'm not ready to absorb. I can always address that later, if need be. I guess I'd better get something done that I can illustrate with photos, since I know this crowd just reads picture books and graphic novels ; ) Too many words here!
In reply to Stu Lasswell :
That’s a lot of words without pictures! Looked up the Königs. Know nothing about them. Panasport make a Minilite forgery that’s actually, well, forged. Lightweight and strong is a good combination.
In reply to Slow_M :
I love the Panasport wheels, and I've no doubt that they are light.The Konig wheels are a similar 8-spoke design, and heavier, but also about a third the price. $118-$122 each (Summit) so I'm thinking budget rather than weight savings.
I just checked the Konig website. The 16x7 wheels weigh 15.2 lbs. each. Not as heavy as I expected, price considered. Also the color is "graphite" (not sure where I got "hyper black"...maybe another brand). And how do you get the umlaut, Bernard? Konig just looks wrong without it!
I'm planning to spring for some Panasports for autocross wheels, though I definitely understand trying to economize.
I had some black/silver rim Revolution wheels on my Spitfire. Those were awfully cool too. Again, not cheap.
I was going to suggest that greater strength can make for better economy, when they don’t bend in pothole impacts, but at 1/3 the price, replacement is a definitely the better option.
On my phone, if I hold down the “O” key, it offers me all of the variations, for that letter.
Stu, maybe you were thinking of these wheels.
I have a 16x7 set of those in silver on my TR6 project. They are 17.2 lbs. each, but I like the shape better than the Rewinds (which I had on a 2006 MINI). No real world experience personally with the Rotas yet, but someone at a car show convinced me they were fine for street use. We'll see.
BTW, don't assume Panasports are light. The street version is heavier than the race version, but Panasport does not recommend using the race version on the street. We had a set of race Panasports on a dedicated autocross car that saw some street miles and never had a problem in 15 years of use, but YMMV. Apparently we need more pictures in threads, so...
I also have a set of 15" street Panasports on a TR6, and they are quite robust. There are no performance tire choices in a profile anywhere near the stock TR6 ride height for them, only all-seasons. TVRs will probably use a shorter tire than a TR6, though.
In reply to JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) :
I have seen the Rota RBs as well, but they are more expensive. I do prefer the contour of the "spokes" in the Rota wheel, but again, it's hard to beat that Konig price! As to the strength of Panasport racing wheels vs. street wheels, it seems odd that their "racing" wheel would not be for street use. One would think that street wheels might not be strong enough for racing, not vice versa. I do know that the Konig Rewind is a popular track day choice for BMW e30/e36, so I should think they won't be overstressed on a little TR-powered TVR in autocross use.
I have a set on my Spitfire, quite happy with them for the look, size options and price.
Dave, those are the Rota RB? What size?
I also like the looks of the Rota RBs. Looking at them again, I guess a set of four would be about $75-100 more than the Rewinds. I am surprised that they run 2 lbs. heavier than the Rewinds... that's a big difference--about 12%! Oh, and do you drive that Spitfire from the back seat?
I went out into the shop this afternoon and just sat under the TVR body (it's on the lift) and casually looked at the frame... and saw a large swath of unpainted tubing! I couldn't believe I had missed it. I then got out my LED light and looked at it from several angles and found several more spots I failed to paint. Even a whole side of square tubing about 8" long. More and more I'm realizing the primer coat should contrast the color coat, and the more contrast the better. Lesson learned!
You're triggering my PTSD.
Kidding. I feel for you.
I have more paint i can drop off!
The Panansport race wheels have less material on the spokes and more importantly the rim. It's just more likely that a pothole will end up bending one permanently. They are also fairly expensive.
In reply to JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) :
Which is why I wouldn't have any "safety" concerns about using "street" rims for autocross or track... they should be sufficiently strong, just with a weight penalty.
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