'87 Lincoln Mark VII LSC

In reply to dculberson:

I'm still sorting out the brake situation.

The TEVES system has 3 lines out that go into the Mark proportioning valve, the proportioning valve has 3in and 3 out that, for some reason go to the rear, d/s front and p/s front. I'm not sure why they felt the need to split the fronts at the prop valve but it's being a pain in my ass at the moment.

The SN95 Mustang master cylinder has 2 lines and the SN95 Mustang proportioning valve has 2 in and 2 out.

I'd prefer not to r&r the front hard lines, but if that's what it takes, that's what I'll do.

After some surprising tugs at the steering wheel under braking I now have fluid routed to the fronts only until I can come up with a cheap, yet safe and effective solution.

I just ordered a speedway catalog and have been looking at their brake stuffs.

Is there any reason NOT to use braided steel line from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve in place of hard line?

In reply to The_Jed:

It's expensive? I would buy a pre-flared hard line of appropriate length from your local parts housed and bend to fit. Easy, cheap job

Speedway seems quite reasonable on their pricing. I was just wondering if there was some reason unknown to me to NOT use braided line in place of hard line.

I believe I have a plan for the brake situation: I'm going to buy a 1 in 2 out union for the fronts and an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear and put them in place of the stock combo valve. This will officially bring my budget into 4 digits.

I'm considering one of these for mounting my gauges.

Thoughts?

Gauge pods could work, but I like your original placement, I still think there has to be a way to shove that info center in the dash somewhere.

Now that I've slept on it I'm sure an A-pillar pod is NOT the way to go. It just doesn't fit the look of the car.

You're right, I need to revisit the idiot light panel idea.

For some odd reason my right rear brake was dragging last night, but only during the later portion of the drive. Quite odd considering the brake bias is currently 100% front, 0% rear.

I assume some pressure may be bleeding over to the rear in the yet-to-be-eliminated stock proportioning valve.

Maybe the fluid in the fronts heated up and by flowing back and forth through the proportioning valve it heated the fluid being held there and since the inlet for the rear brakes is currently capped off the heated (expanding?) fluid had nowhere to go except the rear caliper pistons?

Just received this order. With shipping that's another $15 onto the budget. New total = $986.

I'd say it's due for some...

The passenger side doesn't look quite as bad.

The headlights are pretty hazy and I stumbled onto a cheap DIY video that has a solution.

I was pleasantly surprised by the results.

shiny happy person birds!

My lifting partner has some cooper discoverererererererererererer tires in 245/75R16 that he said I could have since the name is so clunky.

I think I might try to squeeze a pair onto the rear, they should clear.

And you thought it looked stupid with 235/70's!

It looks like either this or the Scoob has to move on to a different owner.

We're hoping to be able to have a family road trip around the middle of November.

Due to a complete lack of local events I'm changing the direction of this "build" from Autocross/RallyCross "beater" to 3 season DD until I decide which car I'm willing to sell.

Which season are you putting the kibosh on?

The oddly unpredictable Central Illinois Tundra season!

So from October to May?

The wife just helped me swap out the FSB bushings and that may be the best $15 I've spent on the car. No more clunking while going over manhole covers or potholes! Both of which are overly abundant here!

I held the 13mm socket and ratchet on the bolt head on the under side of the car and the wife decided to turn the 5/8" socket on the nuts from the top of the car. Yeah, 13mm bolt head and 5/8" nut...

With all of the corrosion and 26 years of road grime I couldn't turn the ratchet from the bottom while holding a wrench on the top and get anything more than 1 click worth of actual movement.

Oh well, it worked out GREAT!!

Before reassembly I soaked the threads in used engine oil and installed them with the bolt facing downward.

Now the only complaint I have is the annoying bumpsteer and tramlining.

It's a Fox body...shrug

I finally got around to wrenching a bit on my neighbor's '51 Chevy. Oddly enough I just finished watching Tucker last night, so I was kind of in the mood to get my hands dirty with some classic iron. I swapped out the bumpers that had been painted silver for some chrome repro units. It's a driver.

Generally I'm not a big fan of chrome but when it is appropriate and done tastefully, it looks pretty good!

Much better with the chrome than the dull paint.

What plates does he have on there? I've never seen EA plates.

I'll take a closer look the next time he has it out.

Those are the new antique plates aren't they? I know a guy from Chicago area, he told me they have antique plates that limit you on driving times and another antique plate that allows you unlimited driving.