That sucks about the struts. I lucked out when I got my Turbo SW20, it had adjustable Teins all around. The motor barely ran so I did the 4th gen 3gste swap. That was the best $ ever spent.
Never got into racing, for me it would be a long dark rabbit hole I know would be a problem, but I'm sure it's at least 250hp, fun & reliable on the street.
Well, I got sidetracked a bit, we opted to redo the garage first to make things more accessible and more 'mechanic friendly' before seriously diving into the engine. We're just about wrapped up with all that work, so back to the MR2 shortly.
One thing I did find is there's an amazing amount of empty space in the engine compartment once a few things come out. Take out the EGR valve, battery/battery tray, and the air baffle box, and there's a LOT of room in there. Just not where you need to work.
-Hans
I'll try to get some pictures soon, maybe even a video update, it's been a busy few days (an hour or two here and there, not full days).
I've got everything off the intake side of the block and there's only a few things I need to try and sort out before pulling the engine finally. With luck maybe this weekend I can try to pull the engine..... but with all the start-stops I've been doing on this project it may also be some time in 2023. Need to find me a hoist.
It really feels good to be wrenching though. Been far too long since I've had my hands properly dirty working on a car. Didn't realize how much I missed it.
Bunch more done today, everything is out of the way and removed other than the starter and the A/C compressor. Then it's time to pull the motor finally..... once I can find me an engine hoist around here.
I'd really like to know more about your MS3 install since I'm about to have an MR2 myself. I'd think a good running MS3 on a MAP with coil on plug would pick up noticeable power.
I know on my Camaro switching to coil on plug and updating the computer and ditching the Optispark is a major power and reliability gain (which is why so hope to do it someday).
At the moment, it's not running on the MS3 at all yet, it was still running the factory ECU. I probably won't be making the switch for a bit still, until I know the new engine is going to run smoothly.
One thing I do know for sure is that tying the classic-style MS3 into the factory harness is a pain. At some point I'm just going to have to commit to the Megasquirt and either chop up the factory harness or build a new dedicated harness for the MS3.
-Hans
hhaase said:At some point I'm just going to have to commit to the Megasquirt and either chop up the factory harness or build a new dedicated harness for the MS3.
-Hans
really is the wise move... as little old wiring as possible, provides the most relaible outcome.
oldeskewltoy said:hhaase said:At some point I'm just going to have to commit to the Megasquirt and either chop up the factory harness or build a new dedicated harness for the MS3.
-Hans
really is the wise move... as little old wiring as possible, provides the most relaible outcome.
I suppose if anyone would know, you might. Has anyone run a 4age on a MS with MAP and coil on plug? I'd be interested in knowing how big of a difference it could make.
AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:I suppose if anyone would know, you might. Has anyone run a 4age on a MS with MAP and coil on plug? I'd be interested in knowing how big of a difference it could make.
I know it's been done, but I haven't dug too deeply into it just yet. It's really not difficult as there are multiple ways to handle the coil-on-plug. IIRC it's the 2JZ coil on plugs that just pop right on. Really the only difficult part is if you try to base it on a factory wiring harness and retain the factory cruise control.
But that's all for later, after I get the new engine installed and running first.
Good news, heading up to Dad's farm this weekend, and he's going to lend me his engine hoist.
hhaase said:Good news, heading up to Dad's farm this weekend, and he's going to lend me his engine hoist.
You are going to use it to lift the car?
I'm hoping to avoid dropping the whole transmission and everything out the bottom if possible, but I won't know till I try.
Having everything off the block I think I have the room to do it, my only concern is if there's enough clearance to slide the engine fully off the output shaft on the transmission. I don't know what the engagement depth is.
-Hans
There are two kinds of people who build MR2's.
First is the kind of idiot, like myself, who comes along and says "I'm going to just pull the engine out the top". Then there are those who have actually done an engine removal and know that you really do have to drop it down, and that 'Everybody' is telling you the correct info. There just isn't enough space between the crank pulley and the body of the car, and you can't get the engine separated from the transmission without serious acrobatics. It's just easier to drop it down to the ground while still connected to the transmission.
My arms and back and shoulders are killing me, but the engine and transmission are down now. I'll probably separate them down on the ground inside the engine bay and still pull the engine out the top, just because I really don't want to lift the ass of the car up in the air by five feet. I'm not comfortable with any of the potential lifting locations. Then I'll start getting some videos and pictures done again.
-Hans
Ok, finally getting some photo love here. Yanking out the old, and starting to ready up the new
Past few days were mostly just pulling brackets and other ancillaries from the old motor, cleanup and paint, mount to the new. I'm short a couple water pump o-rings before I can continue any further up the front covers. However it's not much further now till I can button things up on the motor.
Then I can climb into the engine compartment and start getting it ready to receive the new motor. Mainly just cleaning a few spots and finish cutting out the old battery tray.
It looks nice, I am excited to see more photos of this build.
Good to see the progress! I heard it was risky taking the motor out of the top because of the rear glass, but seems to have gone smooth enough for you. You're actually the first person I've seen take it out that way. I have to admit, I have a replacement planned soon and I'm not thrilled about putting the rear end that far up in the air either.
It would be a LOT more risky if I also took the transmission out with it. Just pulling the motor wasn't too bad, and I unbolted nearly everything that's attached to the motor. But you still need to drop the whole engine/transmission assembly before you can separate the two.
Lots of bolts. A cheap 100ct box of snack baggies makes it a lot easier.
I just need to verify the timing on the adjustable timing gears, and get some new clutch to flywheel bolts (they'll be here Monday). Otherwise I think the long block is done and ready to drop in. This weekend I'll work on getting the engine compartment ready for receiving the new motor.
Still a LONG way to go though. But we're getting closer every day I work on it. I'm not going to rush this, just going at it nice and steady like this is refreshing for me. If I can make the final autocross of the year in mid-october that would be nice, but I'm realistically planning on first event in 2022 being back at it.
-Hans
Could use some advice. Throw out bearing looks sealed, so I assume it doesn't need to get greased. Is that correct? Have I got the thing oriented properly?
Well, poop. The flywheel that came with the engine I bought was a 200mm, and the clutch I have is for a 212mm. Going to have to get my original flywheel machined sometime this week or something.
Not a huge setback, other than the cost of getting the wrong one resurfaced and the time lost having to get the right one done now.
In reply to hhaase :
What does the other side of the throwout bearing look like? It should have a pretty flat surface that hits the springs on the clutch. I'm worried it may be on backwards.
From what I am finding this is the bearing you use in a stockish AW11 MR2. It has a pretty nice large flat bearing surface to engage the clutch.
https://mr2heaven.com/collections/drivetrain-transmission/products/oem-toyota-e153-throw-out-bearing
Yours looks pretty odd to me.
After looking more, I think your bearing is on correctly. I'm just concerned about the small contact area to the clutch spring for that bearing. I'd be really tempted to find a Toyota OEM one. I have removed transmissions for shoddy throwout bearings before, and it's never fun.
The bearing that came with the clutch kit is a Nachi Japan bearing, so I'm confident in the part. They're an OEM supplier to Toyota and by no means a 'cheap' option.
I did finally find a parts diagram that showed the assembly orientation, and I do have it correct. I've also found a few photos of C52 transmissions with throwout bearings still on them, and they do match what I have. The style you have is for the E153 transmission which is a bit different.
Going to try and get the flywheel dropped off tomorrow to get machined. Irks me more than a little that I had the wrong size and wasted money getting it cleaned up and turned. At least the flexplate bolts arrived on time! (Not that I can use them yet)
-Hans
You'll need to log in to post.
