Adventures in Miatadom

Got the new pressure plate in and installed. It's pink!

Dad did a knockout job on the new slave cylinder line as well.

Then jammed everything back together. The worst part was getting the whole slave cylinder fluid line setup in place and of course, getting the input shaft through the clutch disk and pilot bearing.

Along the way, discovered that the flanges on my FM high-flow converter and Racing Beat Header were nowhere near flat, so dressed them up on the belt sander and checked them on a surface plate, then put the exhaust back together and finally fixed the leaks I had chased for a while.

With it up on jackstands still, I bled the clutch, filled the shifter turret and replaced the turret gaskets and lit it off. Everything engaged and disengaged fine, so now I just have to wait for the roads to clean up so I can raod test it and break it in.

Then I jumped over to the suspension and ripped out the junk Tokicos for new FM/VMAXX classics. Did the front in a matter of about an hour

In the installed photo, you can see the nasty scar ahead of the shock tower where the front clip was grafted on at one point after it's traumatic life experience.

I had always had a hard time fueling the car and this shows why. Discovered it when I went to put the rear coilovers in. It had an old junky amp mounted in the back (Not even hooked up, I discovered) and they had hammered back the closeout panel until it nearly squeezed the filler neck shut. Even with the panel, the hose refused to return to normal shape. The drill bit also points to where the screw was run through the hose when they mounted the amp. How it didn't leak, I will never know. The brilliant work I have come to expect from whoever worked on this car. So, I put a new filler hose in and mangled the panel back to regular-ish shape.

Then I jammed the rear coilovers in the back, which was a much easier task than I was expecting. Ooooh, sew fancehhhhh.

Adjusted everything fairly close to what I thought it should be at and then set the car down.

Hmmmmm, no.

No, no.

That front end ended up waaaaaaaaaaay too low, and the springs haven't even settled yet. I am not some YOLOswagmaster420BlazeItStanceNation goon. If I never turned the steering wheel and the roads were perfectly flat, maybe then it might work.

So, tonight, it goes back up on the jacks to get the nose adjusted up by at least a 1/2". Good news is, it rained a lot the past 2 days, which should clean the salt of the road. So, looks like Saturday will be shakedown day.

So, remember how I thought the front had to go up half an inch? Yeah, I ended up cranking in almost 2" before I got the front at a reasonable height. Let me tell you, that trying to get it back up in the air after the original setting was a real treat and took about 15-30 minutes of jockeying jacks and 2x4s.

But it was totally worth it. Completely nailed the stance. And I took it out to drive it and it drives amazing now. The whole car just feels... solid. A lot less crashing over bumps and less rattles and shakes. Can't wait to really hustle it through the twisties after I get it aligned.

Can't get over how great it looks. Although the paint and body look a lot nicer in photos than real life. It has a lot of small dents and dings and scratches and the paint is whipped.

The new clutch is also a honey. Can't wait to get it fully broke in, so I can get on the throttle some and test out that 10lb flywheel. The exhaust also sounds much better now that everything is sealed nice-nice and I don't have a ton of leaks. The exhaust note on this car has been a high point for me, it growls like a Subaru at low RPMs and shrieks like a superbike at WOT.

Really happy with how the car has been turning out. Race season kicks off May 15th and it looks like my father will be co-driving with me in C/SP this year, which should be fun.

Next big steps for the car are, I would like to get a rollbar in it before heading to Miatas At The Gap. And next winter I would like to get a Torsen rear diff in it and either do a turbo setup or a 1.8L swap. I also still have to solve my water leak over the passenger's window and figure out what is up with my cruise control.

I would like to say, thanks to anyone still following along on my little adventure here. There'll start being a lot more content as race and show seasons kick off. If anyone would like to chime in, just to make me feel like I'm not talking to myself here, it'd be appreciated.

Yesterday, I ran the Miata down to my shop to do an oil change and align it. But first it sprung a coolant leak in the driveway while it was warming up. Turns out that the stupid spring clamp on the upper radiator hose where it goes to the thermostat decided to lose tension. Tossed that junk in the trash and installed an aviation clamp. Then ran down to the shop and tossed a Purolator PL14610 filter and 4 quarts of Rotella T6 5W-40 in it.

I knew the alignment was out pretty good and putting it up on the rack confirmed it. The rear had 3.5 of negative camber on both sides, 0.66 of toe-out on the left side and 0.35 of toe-in on the right side. The front had 0.1 of negative camber on the left, 2.5 of negative camber on the right and a tone of toe-in. Tried to set it back to where I'd had it set before (2.0 of negative camber all around and 0.0 of toe) but on the back, I couldn't get the camber under 2.5. So, I either need to raise the back end up some or get the Paco Motorsports adjustable control arms.

The car also has earned a name, thanks to my friend Cody. I've always kind of struggled with naming cars and I get asked a lot what the car's name is. I was watching the anime Mobile Suit Gundam Iron-Blooded Orphans with him the other day, getting him caught up. And in the process he pointed out that the main Gundam, ASW-G-08 Gundam Barbatos, is a lot like my car. In the beginning of the series it's an ancient relic, heavily damaged and degraded and in a state of disrepair, missing a bunch of components. As the series goes on, it gets repaired either with components from units it has destroyed or all new parts, evolving over the series to become a fairly refined war machine. It's also fairly low-powered compared to Gundams in other series and more of an agile close-range melee unit. Of course, being a huge Gundam fan, I approve of said comparison. It also does not hurt that Barbatos is a seriously awesome looking machine. So, the Miata is now dubbed Project Barbatos

The "actual" Barbatos

Dude, this build is awesome. I have been lurking GRM for a long, long time but had to make an account just to say how much I've enjoyed following along your ownership of this car. Keep it up!

Great thread, and great progress. Mine has gone through a similar upgrade path... I'm currently in the middle of a 1.8 VVT swap. +1 on all the advice to swap to a 1.8, it's just a much better platform for future mods.

Keep it coming!

Thanks, means a lot to hear that guys.

In other news, I finally got some magnetic race numbers for it, so no more green painter's tape. Also, finally got my SCCA license. Don't know why I waited so long to go and do that. And I also ordered a helmet (Simpson Bandit) so I don't have to keep using the SCCA loaners.

May 15th is the first race and I'm also planning on going to the memorial car show at SUNYIT on April 23rd again. I need to have the clutch broken in by then, but unfortunately the weather hasn't been cooperating. We keep getting light flurries of snow and every time it even looks like snow, the state DOT has to go by and hose the road down with salt, meaning I then have to wait for it to rain again.

Nick,

I've enjoyed your articles since the first. Thanks so much!

As an old TR-3, CRX-Si, 240Z, etc., etc., guy I was a little hesitant to buy a Miata in my '60s. But I finally did & ended up with a brand new '02 LS. It's been more enjoyable than probably any other car I've owned and solid as a rock.

I think you're very wise to focus on a car that's that good from the factory and for which you can still find a bunch of new stock parts as well as everything you can think of in aftermarket pieces! Some say they don't want a car that everyone else has. But my 240Z taught me that if you want to keep one for a long time and still get parts for it, it's great to own something everyone else has!

I added a Fast Forward Supercharger to my Miata a couple of years ago. It was time for a new timing belt so we just did the whole belt, water pump, supercharger, stainless steel brake lines, etc. in one swoop. Seamless install from top to bottom! I'd recommend that supercharger to anyone.

Please continue your thread! I know everyone enjoys your tales of high points as well as tales of woe.

In reply to Rupert:

Thank you very much for the kind words. I have been meaning to go back and fix some of the photos that have strangely stopped being functional. Yes, picking a car that there are parts available for is the best way to go. I had fiddled with cars without aftermarket support before and it was a very frustrating experience.

I have looked at the Fast Forward supercharger kits, and they seem to be pretty well designed. The eCool system seems a little strange but solid in premises. The only problem is that currently the only kit they have for the '90-'93 engine is pushing $5000. I do like that their kits are coldside mounted though.

I have been looking around for a 1.8L donor car or just a 1.8L engine to go through and build up and then swap into my car.

Alright, went through and noticed that a lot of the photos were inop. Not cool. So, went back through and got them all functional again, as well as adding a few new ones here and there.

Also, my new cruise control switch has not fixed the cruise control. Here is what it does:

You power up the cruise control and it engages and works fine. Then after a while the cruise control cuts out and the light goes out on the power switch. Cycle the power and it will work again but after a shorter interval it will cut out. You can cycle it several more times, each time the working interval gets shorter, and then eventually it just stops powering up at all. Let it sit for a few hours and it starts all over again.

Other issue: STUPID WATER LEAK. This car has leaked over the passenger's side window since I have got it. The original gasket had lost it's squishiness so last winter I put a new set in. Still didn't fix the leak because, even with the metal channel adjusted all the way out, the weatherstrip misses the window by like 3/8" in places. What is the fix there? Stuff something inside the weatherstrip to widen it and force it to make contac?

So, today was a pretty big milestone. It was 2 years ago today that I bought this car.

Hard to believe it went from this....

to this in that timespan.

Nice to take a step back and assess how far you've come.

The car is looking great!

In reply to cmcgregor:

Thanks. It looks better in photos fo sho. The paint is pretty whipped (faded, scratched, chipped) and was a poor respray years ago before I got it (The condenser is blue because the guy never masked off the grille, just shot it) so I think it's going to get painted this winter. That should also address the janky panel gaps and various dents and dings. Might swap to the Racing Beat Type II nose and a ducktail rear spoiler then as well.

So, I went to one of the local junkyards yesterday. I had no real goal in mind, just wanted to walk around and see what they had and enjoy the nice weather. Get to the import car area, and there's a 2000 Miata. And the engine is still in it, barely. Someone already removed the rear differential, so the PPF is unbolted, and the front subframe has also been grabbed. So the oil pan is sitting on a tire and that's the only thing holding it up. Just gotta disconnect the wiring and A/C and P/S lines

The good news is, being a 2000 engine, it's the desirable solid lifter head. It also seems to largely intact, except for a throttle body (But that's okay because the swap utilizes the 1.6L throttle body). The downside is, the sparkplug wells are full of water (sparkplugs are in there) and the dipstick is missing, so there could be water intrusion. But that just gives me an excuse to tear it down and blueprint it and massage a few parts. Worst case scenario, the bottom end is junk and I can either find another 1.8L block for the head or sell the head for good money.

Well, I can cross "junkyard engine pull" off the automotive bucket list.

The old 2000 Miata was looking pretty sad after we were done. We cut the A/C lines, disconnected all the wiring, then used a ratchet strap and massive pry bar to lift the engine off the wheels and tires under it. Then the front loader scooped the whole drivetrain out and we separated the transmission. The front bumper, rear diff and rear axles were already gone and after we scooped the engine, there wasn't much left. The top was destroyed and the interior was pretty trashed too, even the NB Nardi wheel.

The good news is that I now own a BP-4W. And it's pretty much complete. Throttle body is MIA, but that's okay, you reuse the 1.6L one for the swap. Or I can get a new one if I MegaSquirt it. I took the alternator (And paid for it) and that's useless, I'll have to find a '94-'97 alternator.

The sparkplug wells were full of water, which wouldn't have been so bad of the #1 sparkplug hadn't been out of it. Fortunately the piston was near TDC and the exhaust valves were open, so hopefully it's salvageable. These engines can be overbored nearly 0.060" so, that should be salvageable. The dipstick was also out of it but the yard leaves the drain plug out, so the base isn't full of water.

I've heard that the BP-4W exhaust manifold is a restrictive piece of junk, and after getting the heatshield off, I can see why. That will likely go for either a '94-'97 manifold or a header once I rebuild it.

Definitely a bit of a leaker too. Not to thrilled with the Fram filter on it either

Haven't really touched the new engine because I don't have an engine stand for it. Our only engine stand has been tied up for about, oh, 20 years by a freshly rebuilt Olds 307 that was never fired. We don't even have the car it belongs to anymore. Anyone want a 307? Probably not. I have begun pumping the cylinders full of a mix of ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil that has worked miracles on other seized engines.

I have begun compiling a list of stuff the engine is going to need to get running and installed, along with a few tweaks I want to do before I put it in. Looks like this could get pricey bu, oh well.

Also, finally got past the 500 mile break-in mark for the new clutch. Took it out for a good long drive Sunday after getting back from the junkyard. Still going to take it easy on it and give it more time to wear-in before the first race, which is May 15th. Approaching fast, that is.

Good times, plus your transmission with the new clutch and flywheel should fit the 1.8 motor.

imgur.com for all photos, just stop hoping photobucket gets better and switch over.

Nice find on the motor. Harbor freight has cheap reasonably good engine stands - get on it!

In reply to Harvey:

Photobucket seems to be working fine now. Photos working for everyone else? They are for me on every computer I check

In reply to cmcgregor:

Yeah, well, honestly the 307 needs to go, it's taking up room anyway. It was in our '85 LeSabre wagon we had when I was a kid and one night the 307 went poof. My father yanked it, had it rebuilt and then... nothing. It sat around for years and we scrapped the wagon a few years back. He can't bring himself to junk a freshly rebuilt engine that he put $900 in and never had run.

But the plan right now is after letting it soak, yank the head off and assess the condition of the bores. If it can be saved and left standard-bore, then I'll drop in '01-'05 pistons for a compression boost. If it needs to be overbored, I'll have it taken out to 84 or 85mm and go with 9.6:1 pistons. Go through and replace the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, all bearings and seals. Toss the stock manifold and either use a '94-'97 manifold with my old '90-'93 downpipe or a '94-'97 RB header and high-flow cat. Do a coolant reroute while it's easy (and use the '90-'93 version to retain my coolant temp sensor and fan control). If it makes 150 crank horsepower even, it should be a solid upgrade from my 1.6L. Selling the 1.6L and RB header and cat should help recoup a lot of the cost.

Cheap Racing Beat

Heads up

In reply to cmcgregor:

Cool, thanks. Also trying to work a deal on a '96 manifold at the moment that I can combine with my '90 downpipe, so if one falls through, I have options. But wouldn't be opposed to another RB header. Ugly bunch of welds won't even be visible in the car. Either way, they should work better to the cast lump that is the '99-'00 manifold

Well, thanks to cmcgregor's heads-up and RedGT's awesome deal, I now have a used RB header headed my way, which oughta help the new engine hit my goal of 160 crank horsepower.

So, went to the car show at the local IT college this Saturday. And for a teaser, you can see my Miata hanging out with some very expensive company. Yes, that is an Audi R8 V10 and a Gulf-liveried '05 Ford GT. More to come.

So, yeah, that GT. It looked great in the Gulf scheme. I honestly kinda forget that the Ford GT exists and I don't think the performance matched all the tech and the sticker price, but they do look cool.

But that came later in the day. Let's go back to the beginning. The GT photos show it being nice and sunny, but it was actually very dark and gray and cold in the morning. To the point where I considered not driving out to the college. But I decided to take a chance and it paid off when they weather improved later in the day. I went to this show last year (It's chronicled here in this thread, actually) and had a great time and this year was no different. It's a very casual, low-key affair with minimal stupidity but some really nice stuff shows up.

One of the first cars to show up was this R32 Skyline sedan. With the mismatched seats, metal flake paint, widebody kit, stretched tires and massive exhaust tip, this car was channeling a '90s Japanese drift vibe. Would not have looked out of place on Ebisu. It was running a mild RB25DET

This E30 was low and loud.

A genuine R32 GT-R also showed up. Meaning there was as many R32 Skylines as there were Frisbees or Miatas (2)

A 5.3L with a blow-through carburetor setup and a TorqStorm supercharger made this S-10 fast.

This G35 was running some wide tires in the rear to rein in the twin-turbo VQ making 730+hp to the rear tires.

A gutted CRX with a J-series V6 has to be a rocketship

Well, that's a different meaning to "roof rack"

Mmmm, Hellcat. Superchargers and Hemis are like peanut butter and chocolate

This EM1 was ridiculously clean. It was fresh off a build, but I still think it'll probably stay this clean. I love EM1s, searched for one before I got the Miata, but they are hard to find in nice shape

This IS300 was gorgeous.

The EVO VIII is a particularly evil-looking car. I love the hater pipe through the hood that this example had

The owner of this Camaro was real cagey. Trying to get info just out of curiosity, I learned that the engine is "built" and it makes "enough" for power. He did admit that the turbo was an 80mm. I have a feeling this car sees a lot of street use down in "Mexico"

Could this be the nicest all-original 1st-gen RX7 out there? It's possible.

Sunday, the weather was nice, so I strapped in and headed out to the area know as Thirteen Curves. Of course, I take the long way because that takes me up through the Chittenango gorge between Chittenango and Cazenovia. Very fun road to rip on and with the new suspension I could carry some ludicrous speed through there. The only downside is that it's a fairly well-traveled road so you do get held up by people poking along at 30mph under the speed limit a lot of the times. Getting to Thirteen Curves from there requires running along old Route 20, the Cherry Valley Turnpike, which is all along the tops of all these hills. Lots of up and down, which isn't fun in a 1.6L Miata but great view.

Bit of a history lesson: Last fall I'd found Thirteen Curves after hearing about it from some of the guys in the chapter. It'd rained lightly that day but the car seemed to be gripping fine when I ripped up through Cazenovia. Got to Thirteen Curves, did a slow pass to check traction and learn the road and all seemed good. Went back up and I was coming around a turn, barely on the throttle and the car went into snap oversteer without any warning. I countersteered, got it aimed away from the other lane, guardrail, dropoff and oncoming Maxima and then it went into instant understeer and nearly off into a ditch. That had ended that excursion.

But this time the roads were dry and clean and I was really able to put the screws to it. Once again, it's a surprisingly well-traveled road, so getting a clean pass is difficult but it's very cool. This trip got me up to about 800 miles on the new clutch, so I've started using a little more throttle now. I'd like to get another 200 miles on the car before the first autocross, which is now less than 3 weeks away. One thing I have noticed is that with the new suspension is that the car seems a little more prone to oversteer, whereas last year I could hardly ever break traction. Wonder if it has something to do with the -2.5 degrees of camber in the back.

And then yesterday, my used header arrived from RedGT.

He said it had cracked before and someone had welded it back up to seal the leaks but then tried to weld some steel strap to it to brace it up and did an ugly job of it. He was correct. But it's down by the collector where no one will ever see it. I'm just wondering, what do you guys recommend for cleaning up the stainless steel so it actually has some shine to it?