After all these years, I finally own an EK hatchback!

mck1117 wrote: In reply to Acme Lab Rat: But I'm not sure the CRV B20 fits under the hood.

I am It gooooooes

Logdog's using B20s in the Civic chumpcar he's building for this year because they're cheap. I'm surprised he hasn't chimed in on this thread yet.

When it comes time for the swap, I'll take all the help I can get...

Yadda yadda, project updates - got a new power steering pump pulley installed, which necessitated three new bolts for the pump bracket because Michigan is a cruel, rusty goddess. In that vein, the top nuts for the exhaust manifold came off like a dream. The middle three bottom nuts, on the other hand, are...I don't even recognize their shape. Anyone know how to get these off?

Acme Lab Rat wrote: Yadda yadda, project updates - got a new power steering pump pulley installed, which necessitated three new bolts for the pump bracket because Michigan is a cruel, rusty goddess. In that vein, the top nuts for the exhaust manifold came off like a dream. The middle three bottom nuts, on the other hand, are...I don't even recognize their shape. Anyone know how to get these off?

I bought a set of these based on a recommendation from someone here and they're pretty magical.

They'll turn into hammers someday

In reply to cmcgregor:

Excellent. You should automatically get a set of these when you buy property in the upper right hand quadrant of the United States.

Great chassis. For many years Mrs. Editor drove a 2000 Civic Si. She's still bummed that we no longer own it.

This thing desperately needs more low. Anyone sitting on some EK coilovers they're looking to get rid of?

Quick, what are the good years for this chassis?

I've heard 88-91 is the best loved because of the double wishbone suspension. EG's (92-95) are lighter than EK's (96-00) and seem to be pretty popular track cars.

Is '00 the last year? I'm actively looking for a hatchback. I looked at a couple of sources and they were unclear as to the last year for this floorpan.

MY2001 was the next generation, they got fatter and less interesting.

Acme Lab Rat wrote: In reply to DuctTape&Bondo: I wonder what freight to Michigan would be...

No clue, maybe greyhound or fastenal? I think have one nearby (93030) Half shaft is still in it, can see the diff gear shattered, guy said it was peachy aside from that and he was going to do an LSD but abandoned the project when he went B20. My Integra is auto and I don't see myself doing an auto to manual swap so I don't need it.

In reply to DuctTape&Bondo:

How heavy is that thing? I'll PM you this weekend, chances are I'll pick it up from ya. Also, I am in rusty nut hell. I tried to get an extractor socket on one and it just...crumbled. There's not even enough to get vise grips on, so I'm thinking of trying to just pull the stud. God help me.

The box said ten horsepower!

CAI installed from my big box of ricer parts that I got from a friend. I should have the VTAK now, right? Japes aside, such a fun little car to zoom around in. Gets about 32 MPG too, just...don't drive it into a headwind.

Okay, so, a local guy has a Z6 head for sale for $60 and he'll throw in the ECU for another couple bucks. By my reckoning, I have two paths - the fabled Mini-Me swap which will gain me another 20-25 HP and gimme dat VTEC, which combined with the trans from a Civic EX keeps me under $1k in swap price, gives me VTEC and at least 20% more ponies than stock, and gets me shorter gear ratios.

Option two is save my pennies for a B20-swap. I know Wallens-sama is fond of that swap, but the hydro B-series transmissions are not inexpensive. That said, I can foresee myself getting underwhelmed with the 125-ish HP of the Mini-Me and wanting more power and torque. Halp.

I had a great time in my d16 car - They're super fun and don't mind a little bit of boost. Your car is heavier than my EG though, so the b20 might feel more "fun." To be honest I don't think you can go wrong though.

I have a 4.7:1 FD in my garage for the D-trans - I was always hoping to build a single cam screamer.

Lowering final drive (through smaller tires or actual FD) with these D series enhances that "eager" feeling that you get when driving them.

Fun little cars, still holding on to my 1989 Hatch, but I had my eye out for one of the EK's before settling on a Fit for daddy duty.

Alright, time for an update. Yesterday I scored front seats out of a '97 Prelude SH - the GOOD NEWS is that both front bolts fit perfectly. The bad news is the rears are gonna take some work, but sitting in them, there's a world of difference in the bolstering. I can actually handle some lateral G's, which is good, because...

A set of Raceland coilovers are on the way. Trust me, I agonized - wait, save another $300 and get Progress CS-II's, or take the green n' gold plunge - I chose the latter. Buddy of mine who's become my Honda sensei has had great luck with the Ultimos and wholeheartedly recommended them. It'll add some desperately needed low to the equation.

I've autocrossed the car once now, got some funny looks as it was by far the E36 M3tiest ride of the day, I realized that this DX has way too much body roll; the total lack of swaybars might account for that. As a result, I'm on the hunt for front LCA's from an EX, as well as a front sway from same. For the rear, I've heard enough horror stories about big bars and subframe damage, so I pulled the trigger on a Whiteline kit that includes a 22mm sway and a chassis reinforcement.

Let's see, what else. Threw new tires on the daily wheels - Otsu whatevers, they were cheap from my local Belle Tire. Funny story, though, I had the same tires on my Subaru and after three there-and-back-again cross-country trips, they still looked and wore brand new. Great in the wet and snow, good on road noise, etc. They'll do for now, but I'm on the hunt for some Rota Slipstreams and better shoes for when this car finally heads out to Gingerman. Also, I have a line on a B18B with a trans for $600, so STAY TUNED.

Sweet! My CX is hilarious in a good way with the sticky tires and stock suspension.

In reply to BlueInGreen44:

How's the understeer? That's REALLY the only problem I have, but it also desperately needs more low.

And here's the seats installed. If anyone's game to try this, the two front bolts align preeeeeeeeeeeeeetty much perfectly, but the inside rail mount takes some tweaking, it's off by maybe a quarter inch or so, if that. Just monkey with it until you get them to line up.

The rears are a different story, and I apologize for not including pictures. The inside rear mounting hole still sits on the floorpan's "hump" but is about an inch rearward of the hole. I just grabbed my 3/8 cobalt bit and put a hole in the hump. You probably should tap it, but I just screwed the original bolt back in and it did just fine self-tapping. The outside hole is way off, overhanging about two inches behind the hump. The original hole is at about an 80 degree angle to the floor, so you could PROBABLY bend the rail mount down, but I said to hell with that - I took a 2 inch chunk of wood, set it under the rail, and drilled through both it and the floor pan. Oh yes. Ran a 3/8x3" bolt through there, washers on both end, locking washer, nut, victory. Took about 10 minutes per side.

The seats don't LOOK all that different than the original DX seats, but I assure they're much better. The bolsters are firmer and larger, and the seat sits about an inch lower, very useful for a giant like me. Big fan.

Lovin' the project! If I can offer my .02 though, I would definitely make some changes with those seat mounts. Not sure I would trust a wood block or the untapped hole in a wreck. Just my opinion, do with it as you like. Can't wait to see it lowered and with some fatter rubber!

So the wood block is just there as a spacer, it's not supporting weight or doing anything but just...being a spacer. I already yanked and re-tapped the other hole, turns out my neighbor had the exact thing I needed.