Awaiting flat bed for trip to the exhaust shop. Hood off must mean it's a hot rod, right?
Awaiting flat bed for trip to the exhaust shop. Hood off must mean it's a hot rod, right?
Got to Callahan Muffler and Brake in Pontiac and was impressed right off the bat. They expect exhaust and clutch bleed will be done today. Seeing the vehicles they've done, I'm confident it will be.
The shop got the exhaust done but they couldn't get the clutch bled today either. They're back on it tomorrow morning. Dang.
Car back home via flatbed unfortunately. Exhaust mods done and clutch bled-Yes! Without the clutch being bled I couldn't set the linkage position on the pedal. That's tonights task. Closer, closer and closer.
What was the clutch bleed trick? Just in case i need it later.
And why home via flatbed? Im assuming theres a good reason, im just no remembering what it is.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Apparently the trick is to send it to Callahan Muffler and Brake in Pontiac MI
Aaaarrrgggh! Just chipped some paint off the hood moving it in to place on the car.
i feel the pain man. when we put the galaixe on the lift the door to fender gap shrunk just enough to chip both the fender and the door. Going to have to repaint both at some point 
The duster has chips, scratches and gouges.
Its a sigh of the car being used as intended, not neglected.
The most irritating two are where the hood has a spiderweb dead center from dropping it on a slightly too long air cleaner stud, and a pair of deep gouges where a bin fell off the wall and landed on the hood.
Yeah I know. I was careful pulling and storing the hood while it was off and as I'm carrying it to the car to put it back on I clipped my tool box. Crap.
Working under the dash is a PITA. First test of adjusted linkage in a few.
Probably overshot the linkage adjustment but it's not to bad to adjust just painful to access.
After I finished the change I started the car up and within minutes it started stumbling then lost the tach signal and shut down. Crap. I've run into this before and I attributed it to EMI/RFI noise interfering with the tach signal. The last go around I re-routed the wire away from other wires and wrapped it with multiple layers of aluminum foil tape. Problem was resolved and didn't come back until tonight. Instead of using the hokey wire I made up I went to the basement box o'cables and found a short length of coaxial cable. This is heavily jacketed with multiple layers of plastics and both stranded copper shield and aluminum foil shield. For a test I cut of the coax plugs, doubled up the non-stranded core, and crimped it in to the lines from the MSD to the FiTech plug. Idling fine now. I'll give her a bit more time until SWMBO gives me the look and I shut it down for the night.
Well that didn't work.
Come on, man!
Back at it tomorrow dude!
In reply to wawazat :
I've got a mountain bike ride in the a.m. then Subaru work in the p.m., but I will be cheering for you the whole time. Get some!
Thanks Patrick
In reviewing my fixes for the RPM signal being wonky I noted that I disconnected the battery after struggling with this issue previously. Last night I did that and closed up shop. This morning I wrapped the exposed sections of wire coming in to the MSD box and to the TB with some 16ga wire. The coax cable is still in place. I'm 18 minutes deep of running with no issues this morning so I'm going to tidy this up, wrap the whole cable with a single piece is wire as a twisted pair and move back to the clutch adjustment.
Well this sent where I expected to be. Got the pedal travel correct and verified slave travel is to spec but the clutch still won't release. I'm concerned that the pivot ball the fork travels on may need to be brought forward. That would require the removal of the bellhousing...and trans, driveshaft, starter, slave cylinder, etc. Thinking that path through, can I remove the trans with bellhousing attached or is that inviting disaster?
I'm calling the component supplier tech line in the morning for any further input they may have.
In reply to wawazat :
Bro.
i'm sorry to hear this. But I know you'll figure it out and kick it's ass!
So from what I've measured, I have the correct amount of slave cylinder travel per their specification. From what I've read, when I have this travel and the clutch won't release the next step is to extend the pivot ball for the clutch fork which moves the TOB closer to the pressure plate. This new location should then enable the clutch fork to move enough to depress the diaphragm spring release the clutch disc. The bellhousing I have does not have an access point which makes trans removal the path to access the pivot ball then add spacers to move it forward. I have easy access to the opposite end of the clutch fork where two bolts hold the slave cylinder to the bellhousing. I'm thinking I get two longer fasteners and place washers underneath the mounting plate for the slave cylinder moving it closer to the pressure plate. So I'm moving the opposite end of the lever/clutch fork forward. This accomplishes the same thing if I'm thinking of this correctly. Thoughts from the brain trust here? Pictures/sketch coming soon.
This photo shows the slave cylinder and the pivot ball on either end of the clutch fork. 
This photo is from my car and shows the slave cylinder bracket more clearly.
If I leave the cylinder attached but pull the bolts holding the bracket to the bellhousing (seen inside the bell behind the slave cylinder threaded piston rod) then place washer underneath the bracket this moves the easy to access end of the clutch fork forward. My travel is per spec. This should get the clutch fork forward and achieve the same thing as extending the pivot ball on the opposite end of the clutch fork, right? Am I thinking clearly here?
I would say it would achieve the same result. Won't hurt to try, way better than dropping the trans
Why not a Longer pushrod? Preload the fork more at rest, so the available travel becomes enough? Easier than trying to add washers inside a bellhousing.
That's a good idea as well! It's only a section of threaded rod with two nuts.
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