Dusterbd13-michael said:Mopar trans ftmfw!!!!
TIL that Chevy used Chrysler transmissions.
A long time ago, I spent a lot of time in an '81 Dodge van with a 225 six and an overdrive 833. The shifter was heavily cantilevered to mate with the hole in the floor practically behind the driver, and this was the only thing the van had in common with an AC Cobra.
Knurled. said:Indy-Guy said:Patrick also picked up from Summit a brand new Corvette harmonic balancer from the Clearance rack for me.
DANGIT! I knew I shoulda drove down there every night. Corvette damper is high on my list of things to acquire, because of clearance and shortness reasons. I can at least sleep comfortably knowing that it went to a good home.
Then I'm not going to tell you that it's much better than I expected, SFI approved, keyed, has timing marks and was only $60.
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Looks like it might be budget neutral.
Partial Exemption: The Reese Rule: SFI-approved harmonic balancers, SFI-approved flywheels and SFI-approved flex plates are budget-neutral. These parts are dangerous rotating assemblies that should be treated with respect. Any intact harmonic balancer, flywheel, or flex plate listed on the budget may be exchanged for a duplicate SFI-approved part without increasing or decreasing the budget.
In reply to Stampie :
Out-BERKing-Standing!
I hate to say it but switching from the much more common and longer truck harmonic balancer to the shorter Corvette harmonic balancer for clearance doesn't fit the spirit of the SFI rule. However I would say that if the non SFI rated Corvette balancer was cheaper than the one you picked up at Summit I would use that price instead and field in met the criteria for the rule
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Okay. Makes sense when you explain it that way. That'll give me several months to casually look for a cheaper one to include in the budget accounting, if not, the entire $60 goes in the budget.
I agree, it's not a duplicate part unfortunately.
Ok you guys are right. I'm still thinking though.
Just need a stock Corvette damper in budget. $5/10 max used on eBay or swap meet I'd guess. Get one, budget it, use the nice damper instead.
Once the stock Vette damper is in budget, then the sfi one is neutral.
In reply to Robbie :
Price used c5 balancers on ebay.....cheapest used one is $64.99 shipped. They're not like the truck ones
Oil pan must have come off an engine that expired prematurely, I don't think these bits are supposed to be in there:
Found a parts washer and got it all cleaned up:
Then got the truck intake pulled off:
Next up. Figure out where to make the cuts in the firewall and floor pan for engine/transmission clearance.
That's off the 2017 6.0 I'm building for my 57. Dropped a valve, broke a piston, bent a rod, snapped a counterweight off the crank. The head looks salvageable and it was complete minus the coils and cheap enough that if everything but one head was junk it was still a good deal
Planning the firewall cutting..... I want to maintain as much room for pedals as possible.
Will it be ok to offset the engine to the passenger side an inch or two?
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Practically every left hand drive, rear drive car has the drivetrain mounted right-justified an inch or two. You'll be fine.
If you want to see stupid, try to find a plan view of a first generation RX-7's drivetrain. The floorpan is biased for left hand drive footwell space, but the engine is biased for clearance to a right hand drive steering box, so the engine sits a inch or two to the left but the trans is cockeyed to the right. A plan view looks like a freezeframe picture of a fish snapping itself into a C shape to jump away from a predator.
Well, despite being do cold we could see our breath (inside the garage), we got a good bit accomplished.
Chiseled out some old spot-welded in patch:
Then we placed the smaller battery in place (but still in the stock location, so no remote kill switch required) and marked some cut lines:
Then this started to happen:
And, best of all, Indy-Kid #3 survived his first encounter with the death wheel:
Engine test fit soon.
Pulled this box down off the shelf:
Then did a test fit:
Next up, let's get the old balancer off of there. Using a borrowed puller:
Cracked and broke the outer ring ooops.
Oh well Berk it. CUT IT OFF!
This allowed a much better grab on it
I'm really considering putting in a new seal before installing the new balancer, but I'm concerned about the budget hit. Should I replace it or just roll with it?
Is it leaking?
In reply to Indy-Guy :
If the car is strictly for the challenge, don’t worry about the seal. If it’s to have a post-challenge life, replace it.
In reply toRobie & Recon1342 :
Was it leaking? not exaclty certain, because the entire engine was a HUGE oilly mess. The Envoy I pulled it from had over 200k miles on it/
Yes, this car will have a life after the Challenge. It's one I intend to own until the day I die.
Are these seals a known problem? are they difficult to replace?
In reply to Indy-Guy :
The only time it would be easier is if the engine was disassembled. I say fix it now.
Great progress. I say replace the seal if you can even sort of afford it.
Yes. Seal.
Also, put all the bolts in the headers wjile on the stand. I had to modivy both sides heavily on the ebay headers for nader to get all the bolts in.
If the stock manifolds fit the chassis, use those and not the headers.
IMO. Stock manifolds on these mills are really, really good. A lot of people reported power losses when switching to shorty or longtube headers.
On the other hand, it's a TR4, you aren't going to be seeing full throttle under 70-80mph anyway, at which point you aren't going to want to be going any faster unless you're trying to escape a cloud of cyberzombies or something, so it's REALLY academic.
Zero chance of manifolds fitting. (At least the stock manifolds from the donor). It looks like perhaps Corvette manifolds might work, but those cost more than these brand new headers that also come with new gaskets and a bolt on collector.
Getting a collector is worth a lot.
It's amazing, nobody makes collectors for stock manifolds. I did a swap that required truck shorty manifolds, and ended up having to flame-cut my own flanges out of steel plate.
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