So here's everything I know that's wrong with it, as of the moment. There's a good possibility I'm forgetting something and/or will find more. That list got pretty long, it's kind of daunting seeing it written down.
Tires
The current tires are old, well worn, weather cracked, not necessarily round, and of the 7 wheels/tires that I got with the truck, I’ve got at least 2 different sizes. Tires are at the top of the batting order, or at least on deck.
I’m seriously considering stepping up to a 17” wheel, just for greater tire selection. No brodozer Methods or Rockstars, I hate those with white hot heat of 100 suns. I really thought I could snag some Hummer H2 wheels cheap, but I’ve been looking for 6+ weeks, and haven’t found anything cheap enough, or close enough to justify going to get. Pro Comp Classics are at the top of my list if I go with new. Surprisingly Jewels is really pushing for new wheels.
Brakes
Brian was a big help with this, before I drove it 2+ hours through the hills out of the Ozarks, we replaced all the brake hoses, flushed/bled the brake fluid, and adjusted the rear drums. The Front hoses were bad, FL was twisted like a pretzel, and FR was one panic stop away from bursting. Brian replaced the booster already, but I believe the master cylinder is leaking, and there may be a leak at the rear T on the axle. I haven’t confirmed if it’s brake fluid, or gear oil from the axle vent. Axle vent bolt/bung also holds the rear brake line T in place. Also, the ABS light is constantly illuminated on the dash.
Fluids & Filters
This is fairly obvious, based on Brian’s records it’s due for an oil change. Brian topped off the transfer case, and axles before I left his place.
Wheel Studs
I think there’s only one wheel with all 8 lug nuts on it. The lug nuts are through nuts, with nothing to protect the stud sticking through them. The studs with missing lug nuts all have boogerd up threads. I already have a brand new ½-20 die to chase the threads with, in hopes of repairing them, and spent a small fortune on a 40 acorn style lug nuts to replace all of the originals, I'll have 8 extra, since they came in 10 packs.
Parking Brake
I think (hope) this is just going to be, lube the cable and adjust. I haven’t tried the parking brake since we got it home. I think having the rear shoes adjusted should help now too, but Brian had the parking brake stick on him, so I was hesitant to mess with it until I got it home.
Steering/Alignment
Steering is more of a casual suggestion of where you want to go. There’s a good 30° of play in the steering wheel left to right before the wheels turn. To go straight, the steering is turned 45° to the left. I’m not sure I’d call it death wobble, not quite the same as I’ve experienced in my Jeeps anyway, but there’s a significant shimmy between 30-45 mph.
Lights
Ditching the sealed beams, and going to an H4 bulb and lens combo will happen soon-ish. Will probably upgrade the headlight wiring harnesses and relays too. I know LEDs are in vogue, but I’ve not seen an LED light for these trucks, that isn’t goofy looking. I have no reverse lights, that’s going to require some diagnosing, and will probably upgrade to some birght LEDs to match the tail lights.
Turn Signals
The LED tail lights are playing havoc with the turn signals, going to have to upgrade the flasher relay. Both Front side marker lights are MIA as well. I may have to do some panel beating to get the fenders straight enough for new lenses.
Rear View Mirror
There’s no rear view mirror, which wouldn’t be too big of a deal, if the side view mirrors would stay put. The right mirror self adjusts after a few miles. The left side mirror, surprisingly, more or less stays put.
Loose Steering Column
This should maybe be in the steering section above, but the column is physically loose from the dash, like you can move it over an inch side to side. Hopefully there’s just some nuts/bolts to tighten or replace.
KDP
I don’t know if the Killer Dowel Pin has been addressed on this engine. I’ll pull the front timing cover, and find out. I’ll take that opportunity to go ahead and preemptively replace the water pump.
Suspension
I need to do some research on this. I don’t think the front springs should have a negative arch, should they? Not sure if adding leaves, or whole new packs are the way to go. I am pretty sure the shocks are all original. I know the rear suspension is stiff, especially without a load, and this thing is nose heavy, but you can really unsettle the rear end, with a bump/pothole/road seam at highway speeds. I don’t need high end Bilsteins or Konis, I’ll probably be sticking some Doetsch 8000s and similar steering stabilizer on it.
Trailer Hitch
While the homemade drop hitch, makes a lovely step to get up onto the bed, I don’t have a lot of faith in it, or how it’s attached to the flat bed. I’ll be putting a frame mounted Class IV or V hitch on it.
Trailer Wiring
There’s remnants of at least a 4-pin connector under the bed, but there’s a lot of ratty looking wiring. I’m a wiring snob, so I’ll be redoing all of it. For sure a 7-pin connector, and a brake controller is on the horizon.
Horn
It doesn’t work, I don’t know why. Fuse? Clock spring? Wiring? Stay tuned.
Ignition
The key doesn’t actually start the truck. You turn the key, if you can, if you can’t, you have to grab the ignition rod on the column, and assist the rod, as you turn the key. The cover is off of the column so it’s easy to access the rod. With the key in the “on” position, you can then push the aftermarket momentary switch on the dash, to actually engage the starter, and start the engine. Also, the key seemingly goes in the ignition upside down? The key is only cut on one side, and the cut side goes up, i.e. the tumblers in the ignition are on the top, not the bottom, is that normal?
Radio
It has one, it has power, even has a tape deck. As far as I know it doesn’t work. Not real sure there are even speakers in the truck though. The deck isn’t mounted securely, it moves in its hole when you push buttons. It’s a stupid Chrysler 1.5 DIN size too, so there’s no tasteful way to get a full double DIN headunit in there, and I’m not interested in cutting up the dash.
Rear Window
The rear window is a slider, which is great. However, there’s no latch to close the window. I don’t mean there’s no latch, like the typical, latch breaking off on so many trucks of this vintage. I mean, it’s just 2 pieces of glass, there’s no latch, or frame for a latch to attach or latch to.
Door Window Motors
The truck had power windows. Emphasis on had, neither work. I have the original regulators, 2 brand new AC Delco window motors, and hope to remedy that soon. Currently the left window is held in place with a precisely cut to length 1x4 piece of lumber.
Door Bushings/Hinges
Both doors could use bushings, but the left (driver’s side) door is bad, you’ve got to lift up on it to close it, and you’ve got to really put your shoulder into it to open it. The truck has had some work done to it in the past, you can see some patches welded in where the hinge on the left side mounts to the door. I’m not sure what all I’m in for there.
D/S Door Panel & Switches
The left door panel is missing, as are the switches for the windows and locks. There’s currently a metal gate handle attached to the door with self tapping screws… I’ve been looking for a replacement red P/W P/L left door panel, and have found a few, but they’re either expensive, or I’ve been given "F-off" shipping quotes to have a single door panel shipped halfway across the country. Keep your eyes peeled, I’m still looking for a door panel.
A/C
The A/C is currently INOP, flip the A/C on in the cab, and the clutch on the compressor does nothing. May simply not have any charge in it, may be worse. I’ve got plans to have A/C working in this truck. It’s R12, but Brian and I have both had good luck with REDTEK R12 replacement. If this scorching weather keeps up this fall, the A/C may become a greater priority.
Dash Vents
There’s a few missing.
Dangling Fuse/Relay Panel
Self explanatory, it’s dangling above the pedals under the dash, I think it’s probably supposed to be mounted to something.
Gauges - Oil Pressure, Coolant, etc.
The oil pressure gauge doesn’t work, hopefully a new sending unit fixes that. The coolant gauge allegedly works, if you work the truck hard enough. Driving 2.5 hours between 50-65 mph unloaded, the coolant gauge never budged. The accuracy of the fuel gauge has yet to be determined.
Power Mirrors
The power mirror adjustment doesn’t work, and I’d like it to. Haven’t even began to diagnose them.
Windshield Washer Bottle
The windshield washer reservoir is vented to the atmosphere with a large crack/hole in the top.
Hood Latch/Hood
At some point in the truck’s life, the hood latch cable froze/rusted in-place, preventing the hood from opening. Apparently, the solution was to pry the hood open, denting the grille, header panel, and ruining the hood. Since the hood was already ruined, instead of fixing the hood latch cable, they installed hood pins. Twice, apparently, they got the holes in the wrong spot the first time.
Headliner
The foam, and some of the glue is still there, the fabric is long gone.
Flat Bed
I like the flatbed in general. I’m not getting rid of it, but it could use some improvement. I think this is a homemade bed, or Brian mentioned possibly something an FFA/high school shop class built. It’s not a bad design, it is however poorly mounted in my opinion. The bed is currently welded directly to the frame, via stacks of pieces of metal from someone’s scrap pile. I’d like it to be removable without a torch/grinder. The original fuel filler neck is still attached to the tank, but nothing else. The fuel filler neck is too short for the bed. Additionally, the fuel filler cannot support the weight of a filling station fuel nozzle/hose, so you have to hold the fuel nozzle the whole time you're filling the tank.
