For some reason bed adhesion stopped working very well. (Glass bed plate was ordered along with the printer, but hasn't shown up yet...)
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
Make sure the bed is clean, use some rubbing alcohol to clean it before warming it up.
Try to keep drafts away from it as it can impact how quickly the prints cool and that can cause odd issues.
Verify the bed is level and that the print head is the proper distance from the bed. Not just in one spot, but at all four corners and the middle. Beds can warp and cause odd issues like this.
Looks like your nozzle could be a bit closer to the bed.
Thanks for the tips. I'll check in to those steps.
I was also right at the end of a roll, so I have to wait till my order from JMO comes in. It's due in today even though I just ordered it yesterday, win!
Scored an "open box" Ender 3 Pro from Amazon. I'm going to build an enclosure for all three of my Enders this weekend and put this new guy to work!
In reply to RacetruckRon :
What do you make with them?
In reply to Javelin (Forum Supporter) :
I print these ABS dash cubby inserts for Fiesta STs and sell them on Etsy. I am a couple weeks away from launching one for the Focus ST/RS.
I have been struggling to keep up with sales and needed to add another printer to the farm. I have been trying to buy another Ender3 for the last 2 weeks but Covid19 and PPE printing has these in short supply in US warehouses.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
That's freaking awesome!
I officially broke the hell out of my Ender3. I set the stop for the print head too low and it scratched the hell out of the bed and now it prints really bizarre. Berk
In reply to Javelin (Forum Supporter) :
You probably damaged the tip. Do you have any spares? You'll need to re-level after
In reply to Mr_Asa :
I have one spare. I did the auto home thing. It's currently attempting to print something that looks okay.
There's like a million choices for a glass print bed. Which one am I supposed to get?
In reply to Javelin (Forum Supporter) :
You want borosilicate as it is more thermally stable to shock. Beyond that, whatever fits and is a good price. Mine was 235x235x4mm
I'd also recommend these or something similar when you get the bed https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X2MRW76/
So.... Anyone snap off an extruded nozzle when trying to remove it? 
Google seems to say they're supposed to be hot when you remove them. The more you know... Be right back.
Ok, all good! Heated up the extruder, stuck a screwdriver in the rest of the nozzle and it came right out.
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:Anyone have their Ender 3 plugged into a smart outlet so you can shut it off remotely if needed?
I have a WYZE camera in place to watch it.
I use a Wemo smart plug.
So, I'm not sure if it's a fresh tip, or the new filament from JMO, but the most recent prints are really nice.
Downside though, it the stock bed finally tore. The prints have stuck to the bed really well recently. I ordered the glass bed upgrade from Creality at the same time as I ordered the printer, but haven't received it yet. :( At this point I think I might just try to order another glass bed from somewhere else, and have a spare if the one from Creality ever shows up.
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:So, I'm not sure if it's a fresh tip, or the new filament from JMO, but the most recent prints are really nice.
Downside though, it the stock bed finally tore. The prints have stuck to the bed really well recently. I ordered the glass bed upgrade from Creality at the same time as I ordered the printer, but haven't received it yet. :( At this point I think I might just try to order another glass bed from somewhere else, and have a spare if the one from Creality ever shows up.
Hot tip:
Get a 6 pack of 12"x12" mirror tiles from Home Depot for $10 and cut them to 9.25"x9.25" to fit the bed of the Ender3. Even if you have to buy a glass cutter it's less than the price of admission of the creality bed.
I had my local Ace Hardware cut a couple for my machines last summer. I had to insist that a cheap mirror tile like that is not tempered and is just a piece of glass with a Mylar coating on one side to get them to do it. They didn't charge me to do it, I'm pretty sure the guy at the help desk chalked it up as learned something new today.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Great tip! I did already order a glass bed from Amazon, but if/when that breaks or wears out maybe. I'll probably do that.
(Also, it's amazing how fast I got through filament printing some nice organizer boxes for the garage.)
I just joined the forum, but I'm a fabricator at Rad Rides. (Yes. That one) I am New to 3d printing. Obviously....Not to building cars.
This thread and another few friends of mine inspired me to buy an Ender 3. So I did. I have less than zero experience with 3d printing but figured, screw it. I can probably figure it out. Finally came Friday. Spent quite a few hours building and readjusting and tweaking the fitment of the parts, tensioning the belts & drive wheels, etc and finally made its first print. I have hours into readjusting and tweaking the fit of everything,, squaring up the frame,, leveling the bed when cold,, then heat cycling and re-leveling a few times, etc. I have upgrades for it, but left it stock for the time being save for the glass bed. Once I have it dialed in, I'm going to upgrade it.
I had it running too fast on my first print, turns out (75mm/s) and at a layer height of .2. I didn't realize I was running it too fast until I ran the settings by a friend who pointed it out. like I said, I'm new at this E36 M3. Definitely good to know. Made a mental note of that. Im reprinting it at 60mm/s, as a friend informed me they like slower travel speeds...around 60mm/s for PLA. I took his word for it and the print has just started but the bed is moving around a LOT less and quality looks a ton better. I'm pretty stoked. This opens up a whole new world of possibilities... so thanks for the inspiration!
Some room for improvement for sure, but I'm pleased for my first print ever
As an update got the thing pretty dialed in. Printed a second benchy at a slower speed (60mm/s) and a .12 layer height. Going to play with a different slicer program as well, to try to mess with speeds and nozzle Temps on different layers as it was dropping a bit in the arch on the door, etc. But I am beyond happy for a 100 percent stock setup and 2nd prints ever. Read way way too much on this stuff though, so I know it can be better before I tear the unit apart for upgrades.
I just whipped up a fast taillight cover for a setup I've been playing with using a model a style taillight and integrating a license plate light and turn signals into the mix. Also plan on printing and modeling the lense, and bucket as well. Eventually using the PLA prints to layup some carbon for the end product. For the learning aspect mainly. Ans because why not. My shovelhead could also use a remodeled taillight assembly.
Pretty pleased. Took about 35 minutes from sitting down to sketch it up in fusion to starting the print. Granted, its a super simple piece, but Im happy to be learning.
I didn't do any cleanup on the benchy. Could still use some tweaking, but im pretty thrilled and having fun with this thing. Its addicting.
Those angled lines on the "cabin" of the benchy are weird as hell. Do they wrap around all sides of it?
In reply to Mr_Asa :
Those artifacts are a result of the slicer program and running a thin perimeter shell with a large infill overlap. So you are seeing the infill overlapping into the exterior wall. At least that's my understanding, based on my settings.
I'm playing with those settings currrntly in order to see what they do to the strength of the piece and what I can and can't get away. Its all a learning curve. And I'm trying to learn. This is new to me, so I'm learning as I go. But have a decent-ish idea of what I need to do, to get my desired results. Hopefully.
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