Decided to build the ramp today, I'm itching to get my garage in a workable state, so even weekends are work days now.
Ramp is just three 2x6's with decking boards ran across them and screwed down with some exterior deck screws. It's about 7 feet long, which should make for a nice angle at the transition to the floor so the deck of the mower doesn't scrape. Bean the cat is checking it out, making sure it's rodent free.
I used the leftover roof cap and split it down the middle to make my overlap piece, thought I would have to flatten out the crease, but it actually worked good with the offset of the ramp. Just nailed it down with some roofing nails.
The door just clears the strip without touching.
I also filled all my ridge holes inside with expanding foam, which means I can start putting up shelves and figuring out how to arrange the space inside.
Still waiting on the door locks and handles to show, and need to get some foam for around the door edges to finish it off completely.
The shed is officially done! I got the locks/handles in from Amazon a couple days ago and went about making them into the latches I wanted. I looked and looked but only found a couple places that had the lock design I wanted, but they wanted something close to $60 a set for them which was a little outside what I wanted to spend. So I just made my own, taking some $14 locks from Amazon, and adding $10 worth of 3/8 rod from HD, mix in a little recovered metal found near the old building, and some guides made from brackets I saved from who knows where.
The one on the left is unlocked so you can see the movement they go through. They work great and keep the doors secured nice and tight.
The last step was to cover the crack between the doors. I used the sheetmetal I had leftover and made an overlap panel that fit over the ridge on the opposite door, this should do a decent job of keeping all the rain out.
Now it's time to start moving things out there and getting it all setup with the shelving units and trying to figure out how to fit all the stuff in without making it cramped.
Is this attached to the ground in any way? I ask because I need this exact same thing, and it would be much easier to just come and steal yours. LOL. Seriously, thanks for sharing. This may inspire me to make one come spring.
Paint the floor/studs? My shed is just painted with two costs of cheap laytex paint but it cleans and sweeps up much better than bare wood. Maybe overkill, but there will never be a better time to do it.
Don't worry, in a few weeks you'll be wishing you made it bigger. 
I put up a 12 x 24 pole building last year. It was originally going to be 12 x 16, and then I figured adding another 8' of length wouldn't take much work, and would give a 50% increase in interior space.
The problem being, a 12 x 16 shed gives you 16 linear feet of usable space to put stuff. A 12 x 24 shed is now long enough to hold a car, giving you only about 6 linear feet of space to put stuff. 
mazdeuce wrote:
Paint the floor/studs? My shed is just painted with two costs of cheap laytex paint but it cleans and sweeps up much better than bare wood. Maybe overkill, but there will never be a better time to do it.
Definitely paint the floor. When you spill oil on it, it'll be much easier to clean up. A gallon of floor paint, tinted your favorite color, is like $25.
pinchvalve wrote:
Is this attached to the ground in any way? I ask because I need this exact same thing, and it would be much easier to just come and steal yours. LOL. Seriously, thanks for sharing. This may inspire me to make one come spring.
Haha umm yeah sure it's securely fastened to the ground...
If you have the time I would seriously suggest building one yourself like I did, a 12x12 like this would probably run close to $3000 if you had to buy it prebuilt. I'm sitting right at $1000 invested, and that's counting the little compressor and nailgun I bought to do the framing.
I probably missed it, but how was the skylight made weather-tight?
JamesMcD wrote:
I probably missed it, but how was the skylight made weather-tight?
Hey sorry for the late reply, missed your question somehow. I used seam sealer in conjunction with overlapping correctly on the edges, the sealer is specifically designed for metal roofs and won't hold moisture like silicone does, so the metal won't rust.
