I'm super pleased with the results. This is exactly the look I was going for:
I'm super pleased with the results. This is exactly the look I was going for:
The donor looks sad now.
This arrived yesterday:
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Hella yeah!
Needs the chrome trim around the windows blaced out. But its almost spot on with the new wheels.
Dusterbd13 said:Needs the chrome trim around the windows blaced out. But its almost spot on with the new wheels.
What's that tape you used on your wagon called? Any tips on applying it?
Are you selling it ?
Saw you offered jt up on mazda5 sale thread
In reply to mr2s2000elise :
Considering it. My automotive ADHD is kicking in again. I found a drivetrain donor for my long term project car (TR4) and want to pivot and focus my wrench time on that one, instead of this.
To date, I still haven't really bonded with this car yet. I love the looks with the M parallels and all, but the deferred maintenance and resulting lack of seat time are not helping me out. Also, it's just parked in the garage, I decided it was too nice to expose it to winter salt.
The Einhorn is gettin' some lovin this weekend: new valve cover gaskets & oil pan gasket. Also, as a bonus, new spark plugs
I gotta get this thing ready for daily duty (after the salt is done for the year) & to open up the garage for the TR4 LS swap 
Look at all the oil filling the spark plug wells?
No good.
Here's a peak inside:
It’s amazing how much more blah it looks with those wheels on it....
While you are poking around, see if there are any blocked drains in the cowl area. I think you may be getting some water in there as well. That was one very rusty blower motor, and rusty springs under the dash.
Its a rule for all German cars to have small drains that attract and then get clogged with decaying organic matter. On my 00 A8 the cowl was like a moat. Guess where they put the ECU/TCU? They don't swim. BMW has its owm brand of weird with cowl leaks. I read a couple of threads citing a couple of possible causes. And you have a tube of almost clear silicone.
Here's a decent video on one very common culprit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szCaquo5oFY
Those rims really look great on the Unicorn. Happy wrenching.
Brian C.
In replyto BrianC72gt :
When I bought it, it definitely had water getting in there. Sunroof drains plugged.
In reply to jfryjfry:
Yup. I LOVE those M-parallel wheels. They're the business.
Getting after the oil pan.
Interesting chain driven oil pump.
That valvetrain looks minty!
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Stake the nut on the oil pump!
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Can you be more specific? Which nut? Chain sprocket? I won't be able to button it up for a few more days.
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Yes, the nut that holds the sprocket on the oil pump. Stake or loctite.
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Like Angry says. The nut on the shaft that holds the sprocket has a reputation for coming off. Make sure it is tight now and stake it carefully, or even a dot of MIG weld.
In reply to TurnerX19 & AngryCorvair:
Thanks. Will do.
This is why the pan is off:
One of the Previous owners attempted a repair that failed.
It looked pretty good on the inside, no metal at all:
No wonder the car is so clean underneath, it's been providing it's own oil barrier for some time now. 
Looks like you are making good progress with it.
How's the suspension holding up on the car? I'm surprised you haven't had to address anything in that department yet.
I've got some oil leaks to address on my 525. Can't wait for the weather to finally break here, so I can address some projects on my touring.
In reply to MTechnically :
While I was under there, it appears as though I need an Idler Arm, so I'm going to get that one coming. Also, the rear is looking a bit squatty, so it could probably use rear struts, but I'm going to procrastinate on that for now.
In reply to Indy-Guy :
Does your car still have the SLS system installed and hooked up? It would be a good idea to check that your level sender is appropriately set and your PS reservoir is topped up, because if that's not your issue be prepared to shell out some $$$. If your struts are worn/failing then I'm almost certain you'll want to opt for deleting the system and going with a conventional sedan setup. A singular SLS strut runs about $800, last time I checked. Unfortunately, the SLS system is linked to the power steering pump and if you spring a serious leak you'll lose a healthy amount of that lovely green CHF 11S, which is clearly made of unicorn tears given what it costs.
Let me know what you find back there. I opted to remove the SLS struts and loop the hard line when mine let go. I don't know the 530's as well, but I might be able to help if you have any questions on that end of the car.
In reply to MTechnically :
Thanks for the info and tips. I think it's still active. The dash occasionally lights up "Suspension Leveling" even when I think it shouldn't. So I'll investigate.
In other news, valve covers have been sand blasted and primed. Paint tomorrow.
Looking good. If you still have the other Bimmer, are any suspension parts swapable?
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